Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

GLYCOLIC ACID

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

LAURIC ACID

Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes

LINOLEIC ACID

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

PHYTOSPHINGOSINE

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACT

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin. Is a likely irritant

SALICYLIC ACID

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

RETINYL PALMITATE

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

OLEANOLIC ACID

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

URSOLIC ACID

TAURINE

Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness

LACTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

ZINC GLUCONATE

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

GLUCONOLACTONE

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

BETA-GLUCAN

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

MELIA AZADIRACHTA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

COPPER GLUCONATE

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

MALTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

ETHYL LINOLEATE

Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking

CHITOSAN

Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

BENZOYL PEROXIDE

A potent anti-bacterial ingredient that is effective against acne. Often leads to skin dryness and can be irritating

ZINC ASPARTATE

Can help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skin

ACETYL CARNITINE HCL

Might be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

CARNITINE HCL

GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

MANDELIC ACID

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

GLUCONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

GALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATE

A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores

LACTOBACILLUS/PORTULACA OLERACEA FERMENT EXTRACT

Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing

ZINC PCA

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

RETINYL PROPIONATE

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde

CARNITINE

CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF

Green tea leaf powder that might contain antioxidants to help neutralize free radicals in skin

BAKUCHIOL

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

PANTOTHENIC ACID

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin

SULFUR

ADAPALENE

A retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin tone

CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID

NIACIN

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

CANNABIDIOL - DERIVED FROM EXTRACT OR TINCTURE OR RESIN OF CANNABIS

CBD. Can bind to skin cell receptors and can reduce inflammation, itching, and help support skin barrier function

CANNABIDIOL - SYNTHETICALLY PRODUCED

CBD. Can bind to skin cell receptors and can reduce inflammation, itching, and help support skin barrier function

RETINYL LINOLEATE

An ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin.

MOROCCAN LAVA CLAY

Helps absorb oil (for the time of application) and creates a thicker product consistency

HEILMOOR CLAY

ZINC COCETH SULFATE

Helps water and oil mix together and works are a cleansing agent. Might deposit small quantities of zinc onto the skin after cleansing that might be somewhat helpful for acne-prone skin but conclusive research is missing

OENOTHERA BIENNIS OIL

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

BETAINE SALICYLATE

Exfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acid

PISTACIA LENTISCUS GUM

A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

INULIN

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

POTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATE

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

SALIX ALBA BARK EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

KAOLIN

A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color

COLLOIDAL SULFUR

SALIX ALBA BARK POWDER

A powder from a tree bark. It might contain some salicylic acid

EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

RETINYL RETINOATE

A "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol

Tretinoin

Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

RETINAL

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

RETINOL

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals