Niacinamide

RETINOL

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

ADAPALENE

A retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin tone

GLUCONOLACTONE

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA WATER

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

CERAMIDE EOS

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BARK EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

CERAMIDE NG

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

CHITOSAN

Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

SYMPHYTUM OFFICINALE LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that has an anti-bacterial effect

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

MYROTHAMNUS FLABELLIFOLIA EXTRACT

A fragrant plant extract with some antibacterial properties. Can be irritating

BACKHOUSIA CITRIODORA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract used mostly as a fragrance. Can have some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties

GLUCONOLACTONE

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

GLUCOSAMINE HCL

Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.

GLUCOSE OXIDASE

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

GLUCOSYL CERAMIDE

GLUCOSYL CERAMIDE NP

GLYCOLIC ACID

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

RETINAL

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

LACTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

ORCHID LEAF/ROOT/STEM EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation when used in high concentration

Tretinoin

Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

SULFUR

POTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATE

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

RETINAL

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

AVENA SATIVA KERNEL EXTRACT

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

CAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINS

A group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skin

STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

ACETYL FARNESYLCYSTEINE

A synthetic amino-acid that might help calm down inflammation in skin and reduce its irritation, but conclusive studies are not available at the moment. It can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin barrier

CERAMIDE 3

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

LYSOPHOSPHATIDIC ACID

A phospholipid. It is naturally present in skin and plays a signaling role there. It is involved in cell prolifiratio, skin inflammatory responses and wound healing. In cosmetics, it might help to support the skin barrier function

CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

PANTETHINE

Helps to hydrate the skin by improving its barrier funciton

MADECASSIC ACID

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating