Niacinamide

Number of participants	Participants	Interventions	Punchline
27	Twenty-seven female patients with melasma were included, 12 (33%) were of skin phototype IV, and 13 (48%) of type V. The pattern of melasma was centrofacial in 13 (50%), malar in 10 (37%), and mandibular in 4 (14%). The exclusion criteria were pregnant and nursing women, patients with history of hypersensitivity to some of the components of the formulas of the study, and coexistence of associate diseases and other pigmentation diseases.	Participants received two containers labeled right or left with 4% niacinamide (Nicomide-T cream 4%, DUSA Pharmaceuticals Inc.) or 4% hydroquinone (Eldoquin cream 4%, Valeant Pharmaceutical). All patients were instructed to apply the correct amount of both treatments and to use a SPF 50+ broad spectrum sunscreen every 3 hours during day time. Treatment was administered for the period of 8 weeks, with basal evaluation and followup at 4 and 8 weeks.	The average decrease in the melasma area and severity index was 70% for hydroquinone and 62% for niacinamide. Colorimetric assessment was performed initially and at the end of the study; we evaluated the luminosity as well as erythema. The lightening effect of HQ and niacinamide was apparent at 4 weeks of treatment, whereas it was more evident at 8 weeks. Colorimetric measures showed no statistical differences between both treatments. The erythema was more intense on the side treated with HQ than with niacinamide, but it was not statistically significant. Our results indicate that 4% niacinamide was effective in approximate 40% of patients, showing outstanding clinical results.

1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONE

TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

PALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-28 D-SERINE DIPEPTIDE-7 PALMITAMIDE

GLUCONOLACTONE

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

PALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BARK/SEED EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BRANCH/LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

CERAMIDE NP

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

SAMBUCUS NIGRA FLOWER EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

ZINC GLUCONATE

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

SYMPHYTUM OFFICINALE LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that has an anti-bacterial effect

ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF OIL

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

PINUS CEMBRA WOOD EXTRACT

A fragrant extract. Can be irritating

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

MYROTHAMNUS FLABELLIFOLIA EXTRACT

A fragrant plant extract with some antibacterial properties. Can be irritating

GLUCOSAMINE HCL

Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.

GLUCOSE OXIDASE

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

GLUCOSYL CERAMIDE

GLUCOSYL CERAMIDE NP

GLUTAMIC ACID

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

MANDELIC ACID

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

MALTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

ISOBUTYLAMIDO THIAZOLYL RESORCINOL

Sometimes referred to as Thiamidol (patented by Beiersdorf). A compound that can reduce melanin production in skin. Can help to fade pigmentation spots quicker and even out the skin tone. It is a relatively new compound and the research on it is ongoing. The first studies show that it might be as effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone but with fewer side effects

Tretinoin

Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

GLUCONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

RETINAL

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

COLLOIDAL SULFUR

POTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATE

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

CENTELLA ASIATICA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

ACETYL FARNESYLCYSTEINE

A synthetic amino-acid that might help calm down inflammation in skin and reduce its irritation, but conclusive studies are not available at the moment. It can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin barrier

CAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINS

A group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skin

ALLANTOIN

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

AVENA SATIVA KERNEL EXTRACT

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

CAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINS

A group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skin

LYSOPHOSPHATIDIC ACID

A phospholipid. It is naturally present in skin and plays a signaling role there. It is involved in cell prolifiratio, skin inflammatory responses and wound healing. In cosmetics, it might help to support the skin barrier function

BISABOLOL

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

CERAMIDE EOP

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

Niacinamide

Summary

WIMJ Team

Products with Niacinamide

Questions

Clinical trials review

Scientifc sources

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