Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
On 1 avoid lists
|In 92 skincare routines
Summary
Works for
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
- Exfoliation
Irritancy risk
3
HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Where this fits
Products with Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
innisfreeSerum-Infused Sheet Mask - Green Tea PDRN™ Firmingretinolniacinamidenonapeptide-1 +47 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +4
Price unavailable
VT CosmeticsBuy VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot Reti-A 100 Trial Pack in Australia - Korean Skincare Onlineniacinamidemadecassosidehydroxypinacolone retinoate +14 actives
Anti-aging Moisturizing +4
Price unavailable
Shani Darden Skin CareBody Reform Treatment Serumhydroxypinacolone retinoatetetrahexyldecyl ascorbateacetyl hexapeptide-8 +6 actives
Moisturizing Anti-aging +3
Price unavailable
MANSCAPEDFace Retinoid Serumhydroxypinacolone retinoateretinyl linoleatephytosphingosine +14 actives
Anti-aging Moisturizing +2
Price unavailable
CliniqueAll About Eyes Brightening Serum Concentratehydroxypinacolone retinoatesalicylic acidascorbyl glucoside +12 actives
Moisturizing Evens skin tone +2
Price unavailable
Typology ParisSérum Yeux Rides et Ridules — Rétinoïdes 0,1% + Acide hyaluroniquehydroxypinacolone retinoateniacinamideglycerin +5 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +1
Price unavailable
.50 fl ozHPR Eye Creamhydroxypinacolone retinoatepalmitoyl tripeptide-1palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 +8 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +2
Price unavailable
skintificRose PDRN Niacinamide Glow Boost Clay Stickhydroxypinacolone retinoateniacinamidealpha-arbutin +17 actives
Anti-blemish Cleansing
Fragrance
Price unavailable
IOPEExpert Retinol RX™ 2% Reti-Jection Serum for Wrinkleshydroxypinacolone retinoateniacinamideretinol +10 actives
Moisturizing Anti-aging +4
Price unavailable
AizenPhytorevita Ampoulecopper tripeptide-1acetyl octapeptide-3retinal +26 actives
Anti-aging Moisturizing +4
Price unavailable
Clinical trials review
The number of open comedones, closed comedones and papules showed statistically significant decrease over time. Closed comedones responded faster than open comedones with significant difference seen as early as day 45. Both open and closed comedones continued to decrease in lesion count throughout the entire study period. The number of papules decreased throughout the treatment period with significant difference between baseline and days 90 and 120. Median sebumeter values showed significant decrease over time. Mild itching was experienced by 3-13% of patients from days 15 to 120, with highest percentage at day 45. Mild burning occurred in 7% of patients at day 45 but was absent at days 90 and 120. No edema was reported by any of the patients throughout the study period.
Filipino patients diagnosed with mild-moderate acne (Grades 0-3
by Leeds Acne Grading System Revised correlated with grades 1-2 on
Plewig scale and Kligman, 1975). Patients having undergone treatment for acne including
cosmeceuticals within 3 weeks previous to the start of the study. Exclusion criteria:
patients with concomitant systemic conditions, receiving systemic treatments and with other concomitant dermatoses at the time of study; pregnant or breast-feeding women.n=30Biretix Duo (active ingredients: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Salicylic Acid) was applied to the whole face in the morning and night after washing with hypoallergenic bar soap. A broad spectrum sunscreen was also applied in the morning and patients were advised to avoid
sun exposure. The results were assessed at baseline, day 45, day 90 and day 120
Safety and Efficacy of Retinsphere® Technology and Biopep-15 in the treatment of Acne in Asian Population
a significative improvement of all the observed characteristics has been recorded. Also the global skin photoaging evaluation, performed at the times T0 and T12 with the Glogau scale, showed a significative improvement (P<0.001).
Female patients (age 28-81 years) with photoaged skin classified with the Glogau scale n=10Product: product containing a new retinoic complex (hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinol, associated with papain, Maca andina, Cupressus sempervirens, moisturizing complex, folic acid and vitamin E). Treatment consisted of applying the product twice daily for 8 weeks together with a topical photoprotector. No sun-exposure or artificial-UV exposure was admitted.
Clinical evaluation of the efficacy of a new retinoic-complex (Retinsphere®) product for the treatment of skin photoaging
A 41% mean reduction in the GAGS score was observed; a 40.8% mean reduction of total lesions was recorded; 15.3% of patients experienced mild to moderate local side effects (dryness, peeling, erythema, burning). No patients stopped the treatment because of these side effects.
Caucasian patients (28 males and 70 females), with an age ranging from 15 to 40 yearsn=98Product: A fixed combination of 0.1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate (synthetic esther of 9-cis-retinoic acid), 1% retinol in glycospheres and 2% papain in glycospheres in aqueous gel. Participants were treated with the product once daily for 12 weeks
Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
Most of patients had satisfactory therapeutic response with a reduction of GAGS global score of 70%. Digital images confirmed clinical improvement (Figure 1). Micro-comedones and macro-comedones showed respectively a reduction of 38% and of 65%. Follicular biopsy proved a reduction about 60% in the density of micro and macro- comedones. No patients dropped out the study because of side effects and tolerability was very good in 90% of our sample.
(9F/11M) (mean age: 30, range. 18-40 yrs) with mild to
moderate acnen=20Participants were treated with an association of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a new retinoid, allowed in cosmetic formulas, and Retinol entrapped into Glycospheres Technology, containing
Papain, R-NMF (Rebuilt-Natural Moisturizer Factor), tocopherol (Vit. E), glycerol, Treolase, Aloe
Barbadenis. During the course of the study, no other topical or systemic treatment was allowed
Evaluation of efficacy and safety of the combinated use of two topic retinoids to treat mild / moderate acne.
In percentage terms, the reduction of the MASI at the end of the study on the side treated with the product was 74% (31%) vs. a reduction of 55% (36%) on the side that received the vehicle with SPF, with this being a significant difference (P = 0.009).
Inclusion criteria: Aged over 18 years; Absence of treatment for melasma in the last
3 months; No desire to get pregnant in the forthcoming months and use of contraceptives; No concomitant diseases; No administration of another topical or systemic product that may interfere or affect the process; No allergy to the product ingredients. 67% of patients cited a
history of sensitive skin.n=28The product included retinol glycospheres
and hydroxypinacolone retinoate, as well as N-acetylglucosamine, kojic acid, Cromabright and Natriquest,
copper and iron ions, albatin & alistin, and niacinamide. The formulation contains
10% of hydrating active ingredients and 3% anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory active ingredients. The treatment protocol included the application of the active cream with sun protection factor SPF 50
(Neoretin discrom control gel cream—IFC Pharmaceuticals) during the day and active serum (Neoretin discrom control serum booster fluid—IFC Pharmaceuticals)
at night on one side of the face vs. vehicle gelcream with
SPF 50 during the day and vehicle serum during the
night on the other side of the face; thus, the patient was
also the control group. The vehicle had the same photoprotector as the study product.
Assessment of the efficacy and tolerance of a new combination of retinoids and depigmenting agents in the treatment of melasma
Scientific sources
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
Similar ingredients
Anti-aging
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHEPTAPEPTIDE-15 PALMITATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingTETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity GLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. PALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-28 D-SERINE DIPEPTIDE-7 PALMITAMIDECIS-RETINOIC ACIDDECAPEPTIDE-22A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOCTAPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TYROSINAMIDEAn amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are availableTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKRETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingNIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture
Exfoliation
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom) RETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingSALICYLIC ACIDUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)LACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsUREANaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrationsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeCAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACIDAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsHYDROXYETHYL UREAA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredientsRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolALCLOXAAn aluminum salt of allantoin. Can have an exfoliating and mattifying effect. Can be irritatingBETAINE SALICYLATEExfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acidSALICYLAMIDEUsed for anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. Can help reduce inflammation in skin. If used in higher concentrations, works to exfoliate the skinTARTARIC ACIDAn AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levelsACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
Evens skin tone
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom) NIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moistureLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsELLAGIC ACIDCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneORCHID LEAF/ROOT/STEM EXTRACTA plant extract that can help even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation when used in high concentrationHYDROXYPHENOXY PROPIONIC ACIDHelps reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin toneMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsUNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINEAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone. BAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsTRANEXAMIC ACIDAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin toneKOJIC ACIDHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingALPHA-ARBUTINMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutinPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureGLUTATHIONEA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKPOTASSIUM METHOXYSALICYLATECan help reduce hyperpigmentationRETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingISOBUTYLAMIDO THIAZOLYL RESORCINOLSometimes referred to as Thiamidol (patented by Beiersdorf). A compound that can reduce melanin production in skin. Can help to fade pigmentation spots quicker and even out the skin tone. It is a relatively new compound and the research on it is ongoing. The first studies show that it might be as effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone but with fewer side effectsHYDROQUINONE
Anti-blemish
SALICYLIC ACIDUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)NIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moistureSODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CETHYL LINOLEATEHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingCHITOSANInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinBENZOYL PEROXIDEA potent anti-bacterial ingredient that is effective against acne. Often leads to skin dryness and can be irritatingZINC ASPARTATECan help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skinGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationSULFURADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneBETAINE SALICYLATEExfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acidPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureCOLLOIDAL SULFURRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKRETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals