Works for
3 of 3 advertised claims delivered
Anti-aging5 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Formulated specifically for the delicate eye area, this next-generation retinoid treatment delivers dramatic anti-aging results while remaining gentle and safe for sensitive skin.Diminishes the appearance of crow’s feet Visibly brightens under-eyes Revolutionary non-irritating retinoid”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Moisturizing15 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
allantoin, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Evens skin tone3 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: chrysin.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Anti-oxidationNot advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product contains antioxidants (tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - chrysin also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy1 strong irritant: Hydroxypinacolone retinoateMedium risk
Comedogenic3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale3 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~23–34%
- Irritation risk
- High
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoatePalmitoyl tripeptide-1~6.1–9.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~4.8–7.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Allantoin~3.1–4.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
More about AllantoinTocopheryl acetate~2.5–3.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateTocopherol~1.7–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolCocos nucifera oil~1.7–2.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
More about Cocos nucifera oilWater~1.2–1.8%
Glycerin~1–1.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinCucurbita pepo seed oil~0.9–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Cucurbita pepo seed oilDimethicone~0.55–1.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
More about DimethiconeIsopropyl palmitate~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
More about Isopropyl palmitateDimethyl isosorbide~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
More about Dimethyl isosorbideGlycol distearate~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glycol distearateStearic acid~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
More about Stearic acidStearyl alcohol~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Stearyl alcoholPalmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.35–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.1%
- Irritation risk
- High
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoateOleic acid~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness
More about Oleic acidTerminalia arjuna extract~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Cocos nucifera oil~0.15–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
More about Cocos nucifera oilRosa canina fruit oil~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating
More about Rosa canina fruit oilGlyceryl stearate~0.2–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearatePeg-100 stearate~0.2–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearateAllantoin~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
More about AllantoinTocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateChrysin~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin
More about ChrysinButylene glycol~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolCarbomer~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
More about CarbomerTitanium dioxide~0.2–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
More about Titanium dioxideN-hydroxysuccinimide~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- High
Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating
More about N-hydroxysuccinimideSteareth-20~0.15–0.65%
Lecithin~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about LecithinPhenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.2%
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.25%
Disodium edta~0.05–0.25%
Polysorbate 20~0.1–0.35%
Ingredient list view
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Allantoin, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Cocos nucifera oil, Water, Glycerin, Cucurbita pepo seed oil, Dimethicone, Isopropyl palmitate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Glycol distearate, Stearic acid, Stearyl alcohol, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Oleic acid, Terminalia arjuna extract, Cocos nucifera oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl acetate, Chrysin, Butylene glycol, Carbomer, Titanium dioxide, N-hydroxysuccinimide, Steareth-20, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium edta, Polysorbate 20
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Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "DRMTLGY - HPR Eye Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. DRMTLGY - HPR Eye Cream ticks this box. Allantoin, glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, cucurbita pepo seed oil, cocos nucifera oil and dimethicone) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.01% - 0.10% and hydroxypinacolone retinoate 23.00% - 34.00%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.35% - 0.75%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.35% - 0.80%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 4.80% - 7.20% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 6.10% - 9.10%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- In addition, this moisturizer contains Allantoin (3.10% - 4.60%). Allantoin is helpful in wound-healing and can help restore the skin barrier faster. It might also be able to improve scars, but the evidence is not very strong for this.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 53.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
- 6
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