PRODUCT REVIEW
Facetheory Retinal Supreme MultiCream 0.05%
Added by lafs
Add to Compare
Cheaper alternatives
Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinal
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
niacinamide
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Show more
Anti-aging
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinal
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
acetyl tetrapeptide-11
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Show more
Evens skin tone
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinal
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
A next-gen 0.05% vitamin A serum-and-moisturiser hybrid to firm, brighten, clear and plump overnight.
acetyl tetrapeptide-11
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
sodium hyaluronate
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
mannitol
0.95% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Show more
Anti-oxidation
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
chlorella vulgaris extract
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
prunus armeniaca kernel oil
1.2% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
Buy now
We receive a small commission for purchases made through these links at no cost for you. Thank you for your support! Learn more
Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
chondrus crispus powder
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
A powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency
chlorella vulgaris extract
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
Similar products & dupes
| Facetheory - Retinal Supreme MultiCream 0.05% |  DERMATORY - Retinal Derm Band Mask Sponsored | Youth Lab - Retinol Reboot Night Cream | Go-To Skin Care - Very Amazing Retinal |  Spectacle Skincare - Performance Crème | Allies of Skin - Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial |  HSGN - Retinally Liposomal Retinal Cream | HALE & HUSH - RARE RETINAL SERUM |  StackedSkincare - Advanced Retinol Serum | e.l.f. Cosmetics - YOUTH BOOSTING ADVANCED NIGHT RETINOID SERUM |  Biopelle - Emepelle Night Cream | DERMATORY - Retinal Derm Band Mask | |
| Price | ||||||||||||
| WIMJ similarity score |
57%
|
67%
|
62%
|
61%
|
59%
|
58%
|
57%
|
57%
|
57%
|
57%
|
57%
| |
| Key ingredients |
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: |
| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
|
| Potential Irritants |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| All ingredients |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
gluconolactone
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-blemish
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
Show more
Potential irritants
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
chondrus crispus powder
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
A powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency
chlorella vulgaris extract
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
All ingredients
glycerin
4.7% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
propanediol
3.9% -
4.8%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, C15-19 alkane, Coco-caprylate, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Propanediol dicaprylate/caprate, Hydrated silica, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Mannitol, Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, Hectorite, Sodium levulinate, Gluconolactone, Glyceryl caprylate, Hydrogenated castor oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxyapatite, Sodium benzoate, Citrus limon peel powder, Niacinamide, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium phytate, Citrus aurantifolia peel powder, Sclerotium gum, Tocopherol, Cellulose gum, Ceratonia siliqua gum, Chondrus crispus powder, Glucose, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Retinal, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Lecithin, Lactic acid, Acetyl tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl tetrapeptide-11
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitor
- A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne
- The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoaging
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients
- Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention
- Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Light
- Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate
- Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Production
- Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- On the Safety Assessment of Galactomannans As Used in Cosmetics
- Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Function
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid