Spectacle Skincare

Spectacle Skincare Performance Crème

Name: Spectacle Skincare - Performance Crème
Brand: Spectacle Skincare

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients In 2 routines

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

12 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Using multiple weights of hyaluronic acid, a unique peptide complex, a form of stabilized retinal (that delivers results without any irritation), bio-fermented squalane, copper amino acids and more, this formula energises cells, encourages collagen and elastin production, hydrates, nourishes, protects, brightens, soothes, strengthens, evens tone and softens fine lines.”

Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-38.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.4–0.6%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.6%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.45–0.7%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.65–0.95%

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.55%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%

Moisturizing

33 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Addressing dehydration, dullness and inflammation in one go, (with a hoard of devoted fans from the likes of the UKs leading plastic facial surgeon to cosmetic doctors and celebrity facialists, no less) the Performance Cra ̈me is a true one-cream-wonder.”

Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, niacinamide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, phytosphingosine

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~1–1.2%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.3–0.55%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.45–0.7%

SphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.3–0.5%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.6%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.6%

GlycosaminoglycansKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.6%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

Carthamus tinctorius oleosomesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.1–5.1%

MelKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it~0.3–0.55%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.5%

Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.3–0.55%

Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.3%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~0.3–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.3–0.55%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.6%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.65–0.95%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 12 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Lonicera japonica flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.25–0.4%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%

Rubus chamaemorus seed oilEffect: LowA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.3–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Retinal

Medium risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.

Rubus chamaemorus seed oilA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~2.9–3.6%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.65–0.95%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.2–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes~4.1–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes

Sodium acrylates copolymer~2.9–3.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer

Niacinamide~2.3–2.8%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Lecithin~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Diglucosyl gallic acid~1.6–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Diglucosyl gallic acid

Copper lysinate/prolinate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Copper lysinate/prolinate

Methylglucoside phosphate~1.1–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Methylglucoside phosphate

Ceramide np~1–1.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Gluconolactone~0.65–0.95%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Sodium hyaluronate~0.55–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Glycosaminoglycans~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glycosaminoglycans

Hyaluronic acid~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Retinal~0.4–0.6%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-aging

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.45–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.45–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.3–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Ergothioneine~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine

Calcium gluconate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate

Phospholipids~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Sphingolipids~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides

More about Sphingolipids

Squalane~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Rubus chamaemorus seed oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating

More about Rubus chamaemorus seed oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Ubiquinone~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract

Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract

Mel~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it

More about Mel

Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Caprylhydroxamic acid~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Caprylhydroxamic acid

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium lactate~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cyclodextrin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin

Carbomer~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate

Ethylhexyl stearate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Dimethicone~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate

Citric acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Trisodium edta~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps preserve product formulations

More about Trisodium edta

Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenethyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Sodium dehydroacetate~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Niacinamide, Lecithin, Diglucosyl gallic acid, Copper lysinate/prolinate, Methylglucoside phosphate, Ceramide np, Gluconolactone, Sodium hyaluronate, Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic acid, Retinal, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Ergothioneine, Calcium gluconate, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Squalane, Phytosphingosine, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Borago officinalis seed oil, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ubiquinone, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Mel, Tocopherol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium lactate, Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate, Butylene glycol, Cyclodextrin, Carbomer, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Ethylhexyl stearate, Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Pentylene glycol, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Citric acid, Trisodium edta, Benzyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl alcohol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Sodium dehydroacetate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Spectacle SkincarePerformance CrèmeYOUR PRODUCT	Dr. DifferentVITALIFT-A Eye & Neck	AHCYouth Focus Emulsion	Skincare by Dr VTRIO Blemish PM Gel Moisturiser
Match	—	65%	61%	61%
Price	$100.47	$20.24−$80.23	$29.07−$71.40	$71.39−$29.08
Shared key ingredients	—	11 of 24	6 of 24	5 of 24
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Adenosine	Retinol
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Spectacle Skincare - Performance Crème" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate and mel in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, phytosphingosine and borago officinalis seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 2.30% - 2.80%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.40% - 0.60%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide np 1.00% - 1.20%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.30% - 0.60%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.45% - 0.65% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.45% - 0.70%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 76.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 39 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredientsjournals.sagepub.com
3
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
11
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
13
Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patientsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Preventionsciencedirect.com
16
Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacidssciencedirect.com
17
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Lightneostrata.neogen.gr
18
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
20
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
22
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
25
A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Studymdpi.com
27
The role of epidermal sphingolipids in dermatologic diseasesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oilmdedge.com
29
Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in childrenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )semanticscholar.org
31
Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonicancbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
34
Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatologydoi.org
35
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
36
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
37
Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTAncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Phenethyl Alcoholsemanticscholar.org
39
4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com

Spectacle SkincarePerformance Crème

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