Ascorbic acid
On 4 avoid lists
|In 1120 skincare routines
Also known as: Vitamin C
Summary
Works for
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Irritancy risk
3
HighOne of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty penetrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation
Where this fits
Products with Ascorbic acid
Anua Store | Gentle yet Effective Korean SkincareRice Enzyme Brightening Cleansing Powderalpha-arbutinceramide npkaolin +4 actives
Evens skin tone Moisturizing +1
Price unavailable
M. AsamVitamin C Face & Body Moisturizing GelniacinamideVitamin Cpanthenol +5 actives
Anti-aging Moisturizing +3
FragranceAlcohol
Price unavailable
Saturday SkinYuzu Vitamin C + Water Blossom Serumniacinamidesh-oligopeptide-1sh-oligopeptide-2 +11 actives
Moisturizing Evens skin tone +2
Price unavailable
THE PLANT BASETime Stop Vitamin Ampouleniacinamideretinyl palmitatebakuchiol +19 actives
Moisturizing Anti-aging +3
Price unavailable
SUNGBOON EDITORAlaska Salmon PDRN Ultra Moisturizing Barrier Creamniacinamideadenosine3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid +29 actives
Evens skin tone Moisturizing +2
Price unavailable
D'ALBA PIEDMONTDouble Serum All In One Multi Balm StickVitamin Cceramide npbutyrospermum parkii butter +16 actives
Moisturizing Evens skin tone +2
Fragrance
Price unavailable
belifDew Guard Glow Boost Serum SPF 40niacinamidepanthenoldimethicone +13 actives
Anti-aging Moisturizing +2
Fragrance
Price unavailable
AMPLE:NPeptide Shot Eye Creamcopper tripeptide-1retinolniacinamide +15 actives
Moisturizing Evens skin tone +3
Price unavailable
INNBEAUTY PROJECTPro C SerumniacinamideVitamin Cgluconolactone +20 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +3
Price unavailable
APRIL SKINTXA+Niacinamide 99 Pink Milky Tonerniacinamideadenosinealpha-arbutin +19 actives
Evens skin tone Moisturizing +3
Price unavailable
Clinical trials review
Skin was found to be significantly lighter in color and higher in elas-ticity on the treated side, compared to the untreated side, after 8 weeks of product use (Figure 1A,B), whereas skin radiance im-proved significantly after both 4 and 8 weeks of use. No significant changes in skin moisture level (P > .9999) or TEWL.
Female volunteers aged 30-65 years; Women showing the presence of facial wrinkles, skin sagging, skin dryness, or uneven skin color were included in the study.n=50topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract
Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial
In comparison with baseline, the product induced a significant improvement of skin hydration (−19% of TEWL), a significant improvement of dark spots (+7%) and a significant improvement of SQOOH/SQ ratio (−16%). The product was evaluated very well by >90% of the treated subjects regarding cosmetic acceptability.
20 women (mean age 42 years).Main inclusion criteria were: women aged from 35 to 45 years, with a phototype (Fitzpatrick): I-III, residents in a homogeneous urban area, compelled to spend at least 2 hrs a day outdoors, with at least three dark spots on the face without any other facial skin diseasesn=20The subjects were instructed to apply the tested product
(Endocare-C Edafence serum; Cantabria Labs, Madrid,
Spain) at home under the normal conditions of use, for
28 consecutive days, on the entire face. The product was
applied on the face twice daily (in the morning and in
the evening). In particular, specific instructions were
given to each subject for the correct application of the
tested product: 1) do not wash the face after the application of the serum; 2) do not apply any other skincare
products and 3) do not use any make-up products during
the study period. The serum contained deschampsia antartica aqueous extract, ferulic acid, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and standardized
Crypthomphalus aspersa sectretion (10%)
Skin protective effects of an antipollution, antioxidant serum containing Deschampsia antar tica extract, ferulic acid and vitamin C: a controlled single-blind, prospective trial in women living in urbanized, high air pollution area
A highly significant increase in the density of skin microrelief and a decrease of the deep furrows were demonstrated. Ultrastructural evidence of the elastic tissue repair was also obtained and well corroborated the favorable results of the clinical and skin surface examinations. Topical application of 5% vitamin C cream was an effective and welltolerated treatment. It led to a clinically apparent improvement of the photodamaged skin and induced modifications of skin relief and ultrastructure, suggesting a positive influence of topical vitamin C on parameters characteristic for sun-induced skin ageing.
Healthy female volunteers presenting with photoaged skin on their low-neckn=20The left or right half of
the upper chest and the corresponding forearm were randomly
assigned to once a day application of a fingertip unit of either 5% vitamin C (ascorbic acid) cream or excipient alone. Each patient received a
randomized pair of identical-appearing tubes, color coded and
labeled right or left. . Clinical assessments included evaluation at the
beginning and after 3 and 6 months of daily treatment
Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo
Twice-daily application of 5% topical vitamin C led to a clinically apparent improvement of the skin symptoms and allows beneficial effects on skin elasticity and thickness. Bateman purpura, a classical sign of photoaging whose origin has not clearly been recognized could be improved by vitamin C applied on to the skin.
A total of twenty
-two patients were recruited for this study. Patients were eligible if they were at least 60
years, with Bateman purpura located on forearm or leg and they agreed not use any other skin care product
on the treated areas (forearm or leg) throughout the study.
None of the patients suffered from gut disease, and they received all the same equivalent vitamin C levels in
food.
Subjects were asked to refrain from applying any skin care products (milk, cream, self
-tanning ...) or any drug
on the test areas (forearm or leg) throughout the study.n=22 12
-week topical application of an active cream containing 5% of
vitamin C (L
-ascorbic acid) versus a neutral cream in a population of patients with Bateman purpura. The active
preparation was a solution of 5% L
-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in glycerol at pH 6.0 emulsified in a silicone base and prepared under an atmosphere of nitrogen, commercially available (Active C, La Roche Posay, France).
Bateman purpura (dermatoporosis): a localized scurvy treated by topical vitamin C – double-blind randomized placebo-controlled clinical trial
Comparing the mean granulation scores across the different days showed that there was no significant difference between the two groups on the first and third days, but significant differences were observed on seventh and fourteen days. In the intervention region, the mean granulation scores on days 7 and 14 were 3.07 and 1.83, respectively. In the control region, the corresponding scores were 3.90 and 2.67, respectively, on days 7 and 14
Patients with second-degree burns in
two or more body parts or a limb who had been admitted to the burn ward at Vasee hospital in Sabzevar, Iran
were asked to participate in the studyn=30The intervention region
received vitamin C solution (5 ml vials
containing 500 mg of ascorbic acid; pH of 6), while the control regions did
not receive vitamin C. Both parts of each patient’s body
received sulfadiazine ointments
The Effects of Topical Vitamin C Solution on Burn Wounds Granulation: A Randomized Clinical Trial
Skin lightening was observed in most of the patients in all the three groups. However, improvement in POM of more than 50% was observed in 73.34% of patients on GA peel, in 56.67% of patients on lactic peel, and in 26.67% of patients on topical vitamin C application.
90 patients of 18 years and above
with constitutional periorbital melanosis. 60 were
females and 30 were males.n=90The first group of patients (GA
peel group) underwent 3-weekly 20% GA peel, second
group of patients (Lactic peel group) underwent 3-
weekly 15% lactic peel, and third group of patients
(topical vitamin C) applied 20% topical vitamin C daily
at nighttime. The total duration of therapy was
12 weeks.
Clinical efficacy and safety of 20% glycolic peel, 15% lactic peel, and topical 20% vitamin C in constitutional type of periorbital melanosis: a comparative study
Biometric assessments indicated a significant increase (versus the baseline value) of skin hydration (corneometer; from 55 ± 9 to 74 ± 8, P < 0.0001) and a significant reduction in the ‘crow’s feet’ volume (fringe analysis; from 1.8 ± 1.1 mm3 to 1.5 ± 1.0 mm3 , P < 0.002) as early as after 3 months of treatment with vitamin C⁄ madecassoside. After 6 months of daily applications, a significant increase in cutaneous elasticity was observed (Ur⁄ Ue cutometer values; from 0.68 ± 0.11 to 0.83 ± 0.15, P < 0.0001). Significant differences were observed in the global score before and after treatment, starting as early as 3 months after the application of the vitamin C⁄ madecassoside cream. After 6 months of treatment, the global score decreased in all the treated volunteers, with an improvement of at least 23.5% (mean = 29.5%; with a reduction in the global score from 32.7 ± 2.6 to 23.1 ± 3.0, mean ± SD).
20 healthy postmenopausal
female volunteers (45–60 years old; mean ± SD = 51.1 ±
4.3 years) with actinically aged facial, neck and forearm
skin. n=20The control cream (Toleriane; La Roche-Posay Laboratoire Pharmaceutique, Asnie`res, France) contained no
specific active compounds except for 6% glycerine. The tested cream
contained 5% stabilized vitamin C and 0.1% madecassoside
(Redermic; La Roche-Posay Laboratoire Pharmaceutique). A fingertip unit of the tested cream was applied twice daily
for 6 months to the face, as well as the assigned half of the
neck and upper chest, and one of the arms of each volunteer
whereas the other half of the neck and the other arm received
the control cream
Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin
Similar ingredients
Anti-aging
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHEPTAPEPTIDE-15 PALMITATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingTETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity GLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. PALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-28 D-SERINE DIPEPTIDE-7 PALMITAMIDECIS-RETINOIC ACIDDECAPEPTIDE-22A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHUMAN FIBROBLAST CONDITIONED MEDIAA cocktail of amino acids that can stimulate skin cell growth and renewal having an anti-aging effectOCTAPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TYROSINAMIDEAn amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are availableTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.RETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingNIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture
Anti-oxidation
RETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingETHYLBISIMINOMETHYLGUAIACOL MANGANESE CHLORIDEA potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applicationsTOCOPHEROLPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itselfERGOTHIONEINECan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lackingGLYCYRRHETINIC ACIDActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationTETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. UBIQUINONECoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenFERULIC ACIDA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10% VITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACTA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulationLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity TOCOTRIENOLSA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other formsCARNOSINEA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damageLYCOPENEHelps neutralize free radicals in skin combating sun damage. Adds a red color to the productHYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINONEAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenRESVERATROLHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsASTAXANTHINHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammationGALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentrationMADECASSOSIDEAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsKOJIC ACIDHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. ARGININE PCAAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals in skinTHIOCTIC ACIDASIATICOSIDEAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingCAMELLIA SEED OILOil from tea seeds. Can help neutralize free radicals in skinPHLORETINAn antioxidant. Can help neutralize free radicals in skinCAMELLIA OLEIFERA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmeticsEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATYL GLUCOSIDEA synthetic version of green tea polyphenol that helps neutralize free radicals in skinDIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOLCan help neutralize free radicals in skinSUPEROXIDE DISMUTASEAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variantsCAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINSA group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skinGLUTATHIONEA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinPOLYGONUM AVICULARE EXTRACTA plant extract that contains a flavanol Juglanin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce inflammationASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATEA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) TretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKPENTAPEPTIDE-34 TRIFLUOROACETATEA type of peptide that works as a great moisturizer. It might also have some anti-aging effect and help neutralize free radicals in skin
Evens skin tone
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome) NIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moistureHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.LACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsELLAGIC ACIDCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneORCHID LEAF/ROOT/STEM EXTRACTA plant extract that can help even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation when used in high concentrationHYDROXYPHENOXY PROPIONIC ACIDHelps reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin toneMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentrationUNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINEAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone. BAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsTRANEXAMIC ACIDAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orallyKOJIC ACIDHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingALPHA-ARBUTINMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutinPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureGLUTATHIONEA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKPOTASSIUM METHOXYSALICYLATECan help reduce hyperpigmentationRETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingISOBUTYLAMIDO THIAZOLYL RESORCINOLSometimes referred to as Thiamidol (patented by Beiersdorf). A compound that can reduce melanin production in skin. Can help to fade pigmentation spots quicker and even out the skin tone. It is a relatively new compound and the research on it is ongoing. The first studies show that it might be as effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone but with fewer side effectsHYDROQUINONE