Ascorbic acid
On 4 avoid lists
|In 1120 skincare routines
Also known as: Vitamin C
Summary
Works for
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Irritancy risk
One of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty penetrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation
Products with Ascorbic acid
goop BeautyMicroderm Instant Glow ExfoliatorMedicubePDRN Pink Caffeine Night Wrapping MaskDear, Klair'sFreshly Juiced Vitamin Essence TonerRoC SkincareRETINOL CORREXION Deep Wrinkle Daily Moisturizer SPF 30Beaute PacifiqueCreme Symphonique Night-TimeCORDES® VASCremeMedipeelPeptide 9 Volume Lifting All In One Essence ProParnellBakuchiol Retinol Wild Yam 2.12 Firming SerumB-PureGlow Up TonerPrimeraPRMR Vitatinol Serum Gel MaskClinical trials review
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Female volunteers aged 30-65 years; Women showing the presence of facial wrinkles, skin sagging, skin dryness, or uneven skin color were included in the study. | 50 | topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract | Skin was found to be significantly lighter in color and higher in elas-ticity on the treated side, compared to the untreated side, after 8 weeks of product use (Figure 1A,B), whereas skin radiance im-proved significantly after both 4 and 8 weeks of use. No significant changes in skin moisture level (P > .9999) or TEWL. |
Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20 women (mean age 42 years).Main inclusion criteria were: women aged from 35 to 45 years, with a phototype (Fitzpatrick): I-III, residents in a homogeneous urban area, compelled to spend at least 2 hrs a day outdoors, with at least three dark spots on the face without any other facial skin diseases | 20 | The subjects were instructed to apply the tested product (Endocare-C Edafence serum; Cantabria Labs, Madrid, Spain) at home under the normal conditions of use, for 28 consecutive days, on the entire face. The product was applied on the face twice daily (in the morning and in the evening). In particular, specific instructions were given to each subject for the correct application of the tested product: 1) do not wash the face after the application of the serum; 2) do not apply any other skincare products and 3) do not use any make-up products during the study period. The serum contained deschampsia antartica aqueous extract, ferulic acid, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and standardized Crypthomphalus aspersa sectretion (10%) | In comparison with baseline, the product induced a significant improvement of skin hydration (−19% of TEWL), a significant improvement of dark spots (+7%) and a significant improvement of SQOOH/SQ ratio (−16%). The product was evaluated very well by >90% of the treated subjects regarding cosmetic acceptability. |
Skin protective effects of an antipollution, antioxidant serum containing Deschampsia antar tica extract, ferulic acid and vitamin C: a controlled single-blind, prospective trial in women living in urbanized, high air pollution area
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Healthy female volunteers presenting with photoaged skin on their low-neck | 20 | The left or right half of the upper chest and the corresponding forearm were randomly assigned to once a day application of a fingertip unit of either 5% vitamin C (ascorbic acid) cream or excipient alone. Each patient received a randomized pair of identical-appearing tubes, color coded and labeled right or left. . Clinical assessments included evaluation at the beginning and after 3 and 6 months of daily treatment | A highly significant increase in the density of skin microrelief and a decrease of the deep furrows were demonstrated. Ultrastructural evidence of the elastic tissue repair was also obtained and well corroborated the favorable results of the clinical and skin surface examinations. Topical application of 5% vitamin C cream was an effective and welltolerated treatment. It led to a clinically apparent improvement of the photodamaged skin and induced modifications of skin relief and ultrastructure, suggesting a positive influence of topical vitamin C on parameters characteristic for sun-induced skin ageing. |
Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| A total of twenty -two patients were recruited for this study. Patients were eligible if they were at least 60 years, with Bateman purpura located on forearm or leg and they agreed not use any other skin care product on the treated areas (forearm or leg) throughout the study. None of the patients suffered from gut disease, and they received all the same equivalent vitamin C levels in food. Subjects were asked to refrain from applying any skin care products (milk, cream, self -tanning ...) or any drug on the test areas (forearm or leg) throughout the study. | 22 | 12 -week topical application of an active cream containing 5% of vitamin C (L -ascorbic acid) versus a neutral cream in a population of patients with Bateman purpura. The active preparation was a solution of 5% L -ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in glycerol at pH 6.0 emulsified in a silicone base and prepared under an atmosphere of nitrogen, commercially available (Active C, La Roche Posay, France). | Twice-daily application of 5% topical vitamin C led to a clinically apparent improvement of the skin symptoms and allows beneficial effects on skin elasticity and thickness. Bateman purpura, a classical sign of photoaging whose origin has not clearly been recognized could be improved by vitamin C applied on to the skin. |
Bateman purpura (dermatoporosis): a localized scurvy treated by topical vitamin C – double-blind randomized placebo-controlled clinical trial
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patients with second-degree burns in two or more body parts or a limb who had been admitted to the burn ward at Vasee hospital in Sabzevar, Iran were asked to participate in the study | 30 | The intervention region received vitamin C solution (5 ml vials containing 500 mg of ascorbic acid; pH of 6), while the control regions did not receive vitamin C. Both parts of each patient’s body received sulfadiazine ointments | Comparing the mean granulation scores across the different days showed that there was no significant difference between the two groups on the first and third days, but significant differences were observed on seventh and fourteen days. In the intervention region, the mean granulation scores on days 7 and 14 were 3.07 and 1.83, respectively. In the control region, the corresponding scores were 3.90 and 2.67, respectively, on days 7 and 14 |
The Effects of Topical Vitamin C Solution on Burn Wounds Granulation: A Randomized Clinical Trial
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| 90 patients of 18 years and above with constitutional periorbital melanosis. 60 were females and 30 were males. | 90 | The first group of patients (GA peel group) underwent 3-weekly 20% GA peel, second group of patients (Lactic peel group) underwent 3- weekly 15% lactic peel, and third group of patients (topical vitamin C) applied 20% topical vitamin C daily at nighttime. The total duration of therapy was 12 weeks. | Skin lightening was observed in most of the patients in all the three groups. However, improvement in POM of more than 50% was observed in 73.34% of patients on GA peel, in 56.67% of patients on lactic peel, and in 26.67% of patients on topical vitamin C application. |
Clinical efficacy and safety of 20% glycolic peel, 15% lactic peel, and topical 20% vitamin C in constitutional type of periorbital melanosis: a comparative study
| Participants | Number | Interventions | Key finding |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20 healthy postmenopausal female volunteers (45–60 years old; mean ± SD = 51.1 ± 4.3 years) with actinically aged facial, neck and forearm skin. | 20 | The control cream (Toleriane; La Roche-Posay Laboratoire Pharmaceutique, Asnie`res, France) contained no specific active compounds except for 6% glycerine. The tested cream contained 5% stabilized vitamin C and 0.1% madecassoside (Redermic; La Roche-Posay Laboratoire Pharmaceutique). A fingertip unit of the tested cream was applied twice daily for 6 months to the face, as well as the assigned half of the neck and upper chest, and one of the arms of each volunteer whereas the other half of the neck and the other arm received the control cream | Biometric assessments indicated a significant increase (versus the baseline value) of skin hydration (corneometer; from 55 ± 9 to 74 ± 8, P < 0.0001) and a significant reduction in the ‘crow’s feet’ volume (fringe analysis; from 1.8 ± 1.1 mm3 to 1.5 ± 1.0 mm3 , P < 0.002) as early as after 3 months of treatment with vitamin C⁄ madecassoside. After 6 months of daily applications, a significant increase in cutaneous elasticity was observed (Ur⁄ Ue cutometer values; from 0.68 ± 0.11 to 0.83 ± 0.15, P < 0.0001). Significant differences were observed in the global score before and after treatment, starting as early as 3 months after the application of the vitamin C⁄ madecassoside cream. After 6 months of treatment, the global score decreased in all the treated volunteers, with an improvement of at least 23.5% (mean = 29.5%; with a reduction in the global score from 32.7 ± 2.6 to 23.1 ± 3.0, mean ± SD). |
Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin
Similar ingredients
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONE
ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
GLYCOLIC ACID
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
HEPTAPEPTIDE-15 PALMITATE
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
PALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
RETINOL
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective.
GLUCONOLACTONE
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
MALTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
LACTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity
GLUCONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
RETINYL PROPIONATE
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
BAKUCHIOL
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
ADAPALENE
A retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin tone
RETINYL RETINOATE
A "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol
RETINYL LINOLEATE
An ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin.
PALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-28 D-SERINE DIPEPTIDE-7 PALMITAMIDE
CIS-RETINOIC ACID
DECAPEPTIDE-22
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
HUMAN FIBROBLAST CONDITIONED MEDIA
A cocktail of amino acids that can stimulate skin cell growth and renewal having an anti-aging effect
OCTAPEPTIDE-2
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
ACETYL TYROSINAMIDE
An amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are available
Tretinoin
Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK
HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
RETINAL
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
NIACINAMIDE
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture