PRODUCT REVIEW
Ig Skin Decision сыворотка HP Retinoate 0,3%
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
3.8% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
centella asiatica extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
3.8% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
centella asiatica extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Evens skin tone
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
3.8% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Moisturizing
trehalose
1.2% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
caprylic/capric triglyceride
6.3% -
9.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
centella asiatica extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Show more
Anti-oxidation
centella asiatica extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
laminaria digitata extract
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
laminaria digitata extract
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Similar products & dupes
| Ig Skin Decision - сыворотка HP Retinoate 0,3% | VT Cosmetics - Cica Reti-A Cream 0.05% Sponsored |  Biopelle - Emepelle Night Cream | Beauty Pie - Youthbomb™ 360° Multi Action Eye Repair Night Serum |  Dr. David Jack - Good Night Retinoid Night Cream |  DermExcel - Retinol serum |  Dr Sam's - Flawless Nightly Serum |  Allies of Skin - Multi Acids & Retiniod Brightening Sleeping Facial |  Dr. Jart+ - Focuspot™ Dark Circle Micro Tip™ Patch |  StackedSkincare - Advanced Retinol Serum | SKINCITY skincare - TRIPLE TREATMENT EXFOLIATING MASK | Youth Lab - Retinol Reboot Night Cream | |
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| WIMJ similarity score |
72%
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84%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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HIGH
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
3.8% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
centella asiatica extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness,
Moisturizing,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
laminaria digitata extract
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
caprylic/capric triglyceride
6.3% -
9.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
niacinamide
3.8% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Niacinamide, Betaine, Centella asiatica extract, Squalane, Glycerin, Trehalose, Laminaria digitata extract, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Hydrolyzed collagen, Unknown, Propanediol, Lavandula stoechas extract, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Allantoin panthenol, Trideceth-10, Hydrogenated polydecene, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin
Sources
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres