Gluconic acid

RETINYL PROPIONATE

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde

ACETYL TYROSINAMIDE

An amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are available

HEPTAPEPTIDE-15 PALMITATE

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

RETINYL LINOLEATE

An ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin.

BAKUCHIOL

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

TOCOPHEROL

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

THIOCTIC ACID

CAMELLIA OLEIFERA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics

MADECASSOSIDE

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONE

RETINOL

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

LACTIC ACID

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)

LACTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

GLYCOLIC ACID

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII OIL

C13-16 ISOPARAFFIN

Is mostly used to dissolve other ingredients. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might be comedogenic when used in high concentrations

CALCIUM PANTOTHENATE

Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity

CALCIUM PCA

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

CAMELINA SATIVA SEED OIL

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONE

HYDROQUINONE

RETINOL

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

GLYCOLIC ACID

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

GLUTATHIONE

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

Tretinoin

Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

BENZOYL PEROXIDE

A potent anti-bacterial ingredient that is effective against acne. Often leads to skin dryness and can be irritating

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

COLLOIDAL SULFUR