Maltobionic acid

CIS-RETINOIC ACID

BAKUCHIOL

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

ASCORBIC ACID

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

ACETYL TYROSINAMIDE

An amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are available

RETINYL RETINOATE

A "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol

RESVERATROL

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATE

A moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration

3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

ACANTHOPANAX SENTICOSUS ROOT EXTRACT

A plant extract that might have antioxidant properties

ACETYL TYROSINAMIDE

An amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are available

GLYCOLIC ACID

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

MANDELIC ACID

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

LACTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

GLUCONOLACTONE

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

RETINOL

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

GLYCERYL GLUCOSIDE

Can help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer

GLYCINE

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

GLYCINE SOJA OIL

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function

GLYCINE SOJA STEROLS

An emollient that helps soften the skin

GLYCOGEN

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

HYDROQUINONE

TRANEXAMIC ACID

An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone

HYDROXYPHENOXY PROPIONIC ACID

Helps reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

ALPHA-ARBUTIN

Might help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin

ZINC ASPARTATE

Can help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skin

PANTOTHENIC ACID

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

URSOLIC ACID

BETAINE SALICYLATE

Exfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acid