Zinc gluconate

NICOTIANA BENTHAMIANA HEXAPEPTIDE-40 SH-POLYPEPTIDE-76

A fusion peptide that combines peptides produced by human and plant cells. It might have anti-aging effect in skin and can help the skin moisturization

NIACINAMIDE/YEAST POLYPEPTIDE

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

COPPER HEPTAPEPTIDE-14 PANTOTHENATE

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

COPPER PALMITOYL HEPTAPEPTIDE-14

A synthetic peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Can help speed up wound healing

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

CHLORELLA VULGARIS EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

GLOBULARIA CORDIFOLIA CALLUS CULTURE EXTRACT

An extract from plant stem cells that might help calm down inflammation in skin

NARINGENIN

A flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals

TAURINE

Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness

HUMAN ADIPOSE DERIVED STEM CELL CONDITIONED MEDIA

A stem cell extract. There is no evidence that it is effective when applied topically to the skin

3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATE

A moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration

3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

ACANTHOPANAX SENTICOSUS ROOT EXTRACT

A plant extract that might have antioxidant properties

ACETYL TYROSINAMIDE

An amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are available

RETINYL PROPIONATE

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde

SEA SALT

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

MALTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

RETINYL PALMITATE

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

MAGNESIUM PALMITOYL GLUTAMATE

An amino acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful against lines and wrinkles, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking

CYSTEINE

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation

MAGNESIUM PCA

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

TETRAPEPTIDE-14

TETRAPEPTIDE-21

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

AMINOPROPYL ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)

ORCHID LEAF/ROOT/STEM EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation when used in high concentration

ISOQUERCITRIN

Antioxidant that might help reduce free radicals and reduce melanin production, but more research is needed to understand if it is effective in skin

NIACINAMIDE

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture

GALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATE

A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores

HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID

ZINC PCA

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing