What's In My
Jar
Product Categories
Ingredients
Skin Guide
Find Dupes
Log in
Sign up
Home
Ingredients
Salix alba bark powder
Salix alba bark powder
Summary
Works for
Anti-inflammatory
Anti-blemish
Exfoliation
Irritancy risk
3
High
A powder from a tree bark. It might contain some salicylic acid
Products with Salix alba bark powder
Honua Hawaiian Skincare
Aina Detoxifying Mask
Irritancy
ethylhexyl olivate
glycerin
hamamelis virginiana extract
+4 actives
Moisturizing
Show details
Price unavailable
View analysis
Compare
Adaptology
Break Free Toner
Irritancy
fructose
inulin
sodium hyaluronate
Moisturizing
Price unavailable
View analysis
Compare
View all products
Similar ingredients
Anti-inflammatory
ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
ALLANTOIN
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
AVENA SATIVA KERNEL EXTRACT
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
VIOLA TRICOLOR EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect in skin
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT
Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating
ANTHEMIS NOBILIS FLOWER OIL
An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin
CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
BISABOLOL
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
COMMIPHORA MUKUL RESIN EXTRACT
A plant extract might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin
GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
LINOLENIC ACID
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
NIACINAMIDE
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
PHYTOSPHINGOSINE
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
SALICYLIC ACID
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
SIGESBECKIA ORIENTALIS EXTRACT
A plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compound
SILYBUM MARIANUM EXTRACT
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating
TOCOPHEROL
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that can be effective for calming down inflammation and lightening the skin, but the effectivenss in products can vary significantly based on the extract quality and concentration used
LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
ADENOSINE PHOSPHATE
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to stimulate collagen production in skin
ANTHEMIS NOBILIS FLOWER EXTRACT
A plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritating
YEAST EXTRACT
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin
OLEANOLIC ACID
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
URSOLIC ACID
CURCUMA LONGA ROOT EXTRACT
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT
A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties
SNAIL SECRETION FILTRATE
Typically contains hyaluronic acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might contain allantoin that is helpful in calming down inflammation. There is no evidence that it can have any further benefits for the skin, especially when used in skincare products
PANTETHINE
Helps to hydrate the skin by improving its barrier funciton
COLLOIDAL OATMEAL
Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation
FERULIC ACID
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
CHLORELLA VULGARIS EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
TAURINE
Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness
CERAMIDE EOS
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE EOP
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE 3
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE AP
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE 1
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE 2
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE 6 II
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE NG
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE NS
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CAPROOYL PHYTOSPHINGOSINE
A component of ceramides. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CAPROOYL SPHINGOSINE
A component of ceramides. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL
A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency
ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA SEED OIL
A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in calming down inflammation in skin
LACTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity
HYDROXYPHENYL PROPAMIDOBENZOIC ACID
Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking
HYDROLYZED MYRTUS COMMUNIS LEAF EXTRACT
CENTAURIUM ERYTHRAEA EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin
MICROCOCCUS LYSATE
Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"
VITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACT
A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation
BETA-GLUCAN
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
ROSA CANINA SEED OIL
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes
BORAGO OFFICINALIS SEED OIL
A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration
MAGNESIUM ASPARTATE
Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and calm down inflammation in skin
ZINC PYRITHIONE
Might be helpful in calming down inflammation and restoring skin barrier function
ZINC GLUCONATE
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
ZINC PCA
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
CUCUMIS SATIVUS OIL
A plant oil that works as a great moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Due to the high linoleic acid content, can help reduce inflammation in skin
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL
A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency
GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating
ZINC ASPARTATE
Can help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skin
SERENOA SERRULATA FRUIT EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help calm down inflammation in skin but evidence of effectiveness is lacking
ETHYL LINOLEATE
Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking
SALIX ALBA BARK EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM CALLUS CULTURE EXTRACT
A plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin
VACCINIUM MACROCARPON SEED OIL
A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function
LYCIUM BARBARUM FRUIT EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer
HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA WATER
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA FLOWER WATER
A plant infused water that might help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA BARK/LEAF/TWIG EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
BUDDLEJA OFFICINALIS FLOWER EXTRACT
A plant flower extract that might help calm down inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
TARAXACUM OFFICINALE EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking. Can be an allergen
HYDROLYZED GINSENG SAPONINS
Plant extract that might help calm down inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals, but effectiveness of topical application is not confirmed. Can be an allergen
ENANTIA CHLORANTHA BARK EXTRACT
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
BRASSICA OLERACEA CAPITATA LEAF EXTRACT
Plant extract that might help calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties
SEA WHIP EXTRACT
Might help neutrlize free radicals, calm down inflammation, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin
GLOBULARIA CORDIFOLIA CALLUS CULTURE EXTRACT
An extract from plant stem cells that might help calm down inflammation in skin
LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT LYSATE
Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin
SAURURUS CHINENSIS EXTRACT
Plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties
OLEIC ACID
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness
SPILANTHES ACMELLA FLOWER EXTRACT
Plant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skin
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA EXTRACT
Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating
ASTAXANTHIN
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation
SWERTIA CHIRATA EXTRACT
A plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking
ALTHAEA ROSEA ROOT EXTRACT
A plant extract that has some anti-inflammatory properties, can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is also used to thicken the product formulations
VISCUM ALBUM LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid research is lacking
SACCHAROMYCES/IMPERATA CYLINDRICA ROOT FERMENT EXTRACT
Yeast extract obtained from a plant root (cogon grass). It works as an excellent humectant attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Can have some anti-inflammatory effect
LACTOBACILLUS/PORTULACA OLERACEA FERMENT EXTRACT
Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing
ECHIUM PLANTAGINEUM SEED OIL
A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin
CARDIOSPERMUM HALICACABUM FLOWER/LEAF/VINE EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.
CERAMIDE AS
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
CERAMIDE NP
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
HYDROXYPALMITOYL SPHINGANINE
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
SAMBUCUS NIGRA FLOWER EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
TAMARINDUS INDICA EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in skin but solid evidence is lacking
CETYLHYDROXYPROLINE PALMITAMIDE
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
BAKUCHIOL
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
NARINGENIN
A flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals
SPIRAEA ULMARIA FLOWER EXTRACT
Might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be irritating
OENOTHERA BIENNIS OIL
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function
BACKHOUSIA CITRIODORA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract used mostly as a fragrance. Can have some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties
CAMELLIA OLEIFERA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics
CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER OIL
A plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant
HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES FRUIT OIL
A plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating
PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE BARK EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect
ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BARK EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing
ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BARK/SEED EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing
ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BRANCH/LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing
ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN FLOWER EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing
ALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN SEED EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing
ARTEMISIA VULGARIS EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. It can be irritating
CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF CELL EXTRACT
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.
CENTELLA ASIATICA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
ASIATIC ACID
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
CALENDULA OFFICINALIS EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
SISYMBRIUM IRIO SEED OIL
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could help reduce inflammation due to high content of linolenic acid
POTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATE
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
HYALURONIC ACID
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
CAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINS
A group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skin
PRUNUS ARMENIACA FRUIT EXTRACT
A fruit extract that might have some antioxidant properties and might help attract water to the skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking
CYANOCOBALAMIN
Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin
AMINOBUTYRIC ACID
Has been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing
SALICYLAMIDE
Used for anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. Can help reduce inflammation in skin. If used in higher concentrations, works to exfoliate the skin
CENTAUREA CYANUS FLOWER WATER
Cornflower water. Might have an anti-oxidant effect and can help reduce inflammation in skin. However, it can be irritating on its own
POLYGONUM AVICULARE EXTRACT
A plant extract that contains a flavanol Juglanin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce inflammation
IMPERATA CYLINDRICA ROOT EXTRACT
A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer
MALVA SYLVESTRIS LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help in reducing inflammation
DENDROBIUM NOBILE EXTRACT
A plant extract has antimicrobal properties and might help reduce inflammation
BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA ROOT EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals
CENTAUREA CYANUS FLOWER EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals
ECLIPTA PROSTRATA EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritating
COLLOIDAL OATMEAL EXTRACT
Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation
TANACETUM ANNUUM FLOWER OIL
An essential oil that has anti-inflammatory properties but also contains irritating compounds
LAVANDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER OIL
Am essential oil that is used as a fragrance
CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER
PLANTAGO LANCEOLATA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
ROSMARINYL GLUCOSIDE
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to reduce inflammation
Hydrocortisone
A medical ingredient, corticosteroid. Can reduce swelling, itching, redness in inflammatory skin conditions. Consult a doctor if you require a long-term use
PHENYLTHIAZOLYL FLUOROANILINE
A molecule that is claimed to help reduce inflammation, but there are no available studies documenting its activity
Exfoliation
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONE
ALLANTOIN
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
GLYCOLIC ACID
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
LACTIC ACID
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
RETINOL
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
RETINYL PALMITATE
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
SALICYLIC ACID
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
VITIS VINIFERA JUICE EXTRACT
Contains AHAs that exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin due to the sugar content
LACTOBACILLUS/PUMPKIN FERMENT EXTRACT
An enzyme-based exfoliant
LACTOBACILLUS/PUNICA GRANATUM FRUIT FERMENT EXTRACT
An enzyme-based exfoliant
LACTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity
GLUCONOLACTONE
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
UREA
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
ZINC GLUCONATE
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
COPPER GLUCONATE
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
MALTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
MARIS SAL
Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration
SEA SALT
Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration
MANDELIC ACID
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
GLUCONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID
AZELAIC ACID
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
HYDROXYETHYL UREA
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
RETINYL RETINOATE
A "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol
ALCLOXA
An aluminum salt of allantoin. Can have an exfoliating and mattifying effect. Can be irritating
HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
BETAINE SALICYLATE
Exfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acid
SALICYLAMIDE
Used for anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. Can help reduce inflammation in skin. If used in higher concentrations, works to exfoliate the skin
PAPAIN
An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating
TARTARIC ACID
An AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levels
ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
SALIX ALBA BARK EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
POLYLACTIC ACID
Used as an abrasive ingredient for physical (mechanical) exfoliation
SALIX NIGRA BARK EXTRACT
A plant extract that might contain salicylic acid
MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE
CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA JUICE
ACTINIDIA CHINENSIS FRUIT JUICE
PHENOL
A harsh exfoliant and preservative. It is banned from using in cosmetics in the EU
Anti-blemish
ALLANTOIN
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
GLYCOLIC ACID
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
LAURIC ACID
Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes
LINOLEIC ACID
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
PHYTOSPHINGOSINE
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACT
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
SALICYLIC ACID
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
RETINYL PALMITATE
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
NIACINAMIDE
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
OLEANOLIC ACID
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
URSOLIC ACID
TAURINE
Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness
LACTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity
ZINC GLUCONATE
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
GLUCONOLACTONE
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
BETA-GLUCAN
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
MELIA AZADIRACHTA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
COPPER GLUCONATE
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
MALTOBIONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
ETHYL LINOLEATE
Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking
CHITOSAN
Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
BENZOYL PEROXIDE
A potent anti-bacterial ingredient that is effective against acne. Often leads to skin dryness and can be irritating
ZINC ASPARTATE
Can help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skin
ACETYL CARNITINE HCL
Might be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
CARNITINE HCL
Might be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating
MANDELIC ACID
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
GLUCONIC ACID
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
GALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATE
A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores
LACTOBACILLUS/PORTULACA OLERACEA FERMENT EXTRACT
Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing
ZINC PCA
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
RETINYL PROPIONATE
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
CARNITINE
CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACT
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF
Green tea leaf powder that might contain antioxidants to help neutralize free radicals in skin
BAKUCHIOL
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
PANTOTHENIC ACID
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
SULFUR
ADAPALENE
A retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin tone
CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID
NIACIN
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
CANNABIDIOL - DERIVED FROM EXTRACT OR TINCTURE OR RESIN OF CANNABIS
CBD. Can bind to skin cell receptors and can reduce inflammation, itching, and help support skin barrier function
CANNABIDIOL - SYNTHETICALLY PRODUCED
CBD. Can bind to skin cell receptors and can reduce inflammation, itching, and help support skin barrier function
RETINYL LINOLEATE
An ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin.
MOROCCAN LAVA CLAY
Helps absorb oil (for the time of application) and creates a thicker product consistency
HEILMOOR CLAY
ZINC COCETH SULFATE
Helps water and oil mix together and works are a cleansing agent. Might deposit small quantities of zinc onto the skin after cleansing that might be somewhat helpful for acne-prone skin but conclusive research is missing
OENOTHERA BIENNIS OIL
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function
BETAINE SALICYLATE
Exfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acid
PISTACIA LENTISCUS GUM
A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking
INULIN
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking
POTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATE
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
BENTONITE
Helps stabilize the product formulation
TRIFAROTENE
OCTADECENEDIOIC ACID
Helps oil and water mix together. Might help suppress growth of acne-triggering bacteria in skin
SALIX ALBA BARK EXTRACT
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
SODIUM SULFACETAMIDE
A topical antibiotic used to treat acne and seborrheic dermatitis
KAOLIN
A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color
COLLOIDAL SULFUR
EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE
A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare
RETINYL RETINOATE
A "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol
Tretinoin
Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK
HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
RETINAL
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
RETINOL
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
AZELAIC ACID
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals