Camellia sinensis leaf
In 98 skincare routines
Also known as: Green tea leaf
Summary
Works for
- Anti-oxidation
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Irritancy risk
1
LowGreen tea leaf powder that might contain antioxidants to help neutralize free radicals in skin
Products with Camellia sinensis leaf
ZO Skin HealthComplexion Renewal Padssalicylic acidglycolic acidurea +1 actives
Exfoliation Anti-blemish +4
Fragrance
Price unavailable
Medik8C-TETRA™ ADVANCED GEL-SERUMtetrahexyldecyl ascorbateOatmeal extractacetyl glucosamine +6 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +2
Price unavailable
SchickHydro Dry Skin Razor Refillsceramide ngpanthenolGreen tea leaf +2 actives
Moisturizing Anti-oxidation
Price unavailable
Aceology Beauty USSkin Detox Acessential Packsalicylic acidniacinamideoligopeptide-32 +27 actives
Anti-aging Anti-oxidation +3
Fragrance
Price unavailable
JowaéYouth Concentrate Complexion Correctingniacinamidecaprylic/capric triglycerideethyl linoleate +5 actives
Evens skin tone Anti-aging +3
FragranceAlcohol
Price unavailable
OLIVARRIERComfort Barrier Cream JumboPrickly pear seed oilphytosphingosineceramide np +15 actives
Moisturizing Anti-oxidation
Price unavailable
TROIAREUKEMillimom Body Lotionmadecassosideceramide npbeeswax +14 actives
Moisturizing Anti-oxidation +1
Price unavailable
marie veroniqueSeasonal Barrier Support Duo: Barrier Restore Serum + Barrier Lipid ComplexgluconolactoneKnotgrass extractlactic acid +20 actives
Moisturizing Evens skin tone +2
Price unavailable
Face RealityUltra Gentle CleanserpanthenolGreen tea leafTea extract +6 actives
Cleansing
Price unavailable
Derma ESulfur Spot Treatmentsalicylic acidniacinamidelinoleic acid +11 actives
Anti-blemish Anti-oxidation +1
Essential oils
Price unavailable
Similar ingredients
Anti-aging
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinBUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsCAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulationACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTERA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesDIPALMITOYL HYDROXYPROLINEIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness GLYCINE SOJA PROTEINA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lackingGLYCINE SOJA SEED EXTRACTAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.GLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHEPTAPEPTIDE-15 PALMITATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome) COPPER PALMITOYL HEPTAPEPTIDE-14A synthetic peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Can help speed up wound healingMAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highNICOTIANA SYLVESTRIS LEAF CELL CULTUREHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farPALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPRUNUS PERSICA LEAF EXTRACTMight be helpful in supporting collagen and ellastin production but solid research is lacking. Could be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingRETINYL PALMITATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectTHERMUS THERMOPHILLUS FERMENTMight be helpful in neutralising free radicals in skin and have some hydration propertiesUBIQUINONECoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenTOCOPHEROLPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itselfLAMINARIA SACCHARINA EXTRACTA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrationsASCORBYL GLUCOSIDEA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsADENOSINE PHOSPHATEMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to stimulate collagen production in skinAMINOPROPYL ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)OLEANOLIC ACIDMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skinTETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. TRIPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesURSOLIC ACIDTETRAPEPTIDE-21A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTRIPEPTIDE-32A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesDIPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesADENOSINEMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrationsGLUTAMYLAMIDOETHYL IMIDAZOLEA peptide that is claimed to be helpful in supporting vitamin D production in skin but evidence is lackingFERULIC ACIDA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10% CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though. CREATINECan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectivenessATELOCOLLAGENA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinklesSERINEAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinklesTHREONINEAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinklesLYSINEAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinklesVITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACTA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulationBETA-GLUCANHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinklesGLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsZINC CARBONATEMight be helpful in reducing fine lines in wrinkles, especially if combined with magnesium aluminum silicate and malonic acidCOPPER GLUCONATETypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATEMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulationPALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-19A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesZINC GLUCONATETypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinPALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-52A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritatingZINC PCAA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missingCHRYSINMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinPALMITOYL PROLINEAn amino-acid that helps attract watet to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-aging propertiesACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-4A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesARGININE/LYSINE POLYPEPTIDEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTRIFLUOROACETYL TRIPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesDIPEPTIDE DIAMINOBUTYROYL BENZYLAMIDE DIACETATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-9A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesCOPPER TRIPEPTIDE-1A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin. TRIPEPTIDE-10 CITRULLINEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-7A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL OCTAPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-17A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesDIPEPTIDE-8A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-9A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMYRISTOYL NONAPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOCTAPEPTIDE-7A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-34A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-5A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-4A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMAGNESIUM PALMITOYL GLUTAMATEAn amino acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful against lines and wrinkles, but evidence of effectiveness is lackingDECARBOXY CARNOSINE HCLMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is neededTOCOTRIENOLSA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other formsALANYL GLUTAMINEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesCARNOSINEA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damageSODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CHYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINONEAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenLYCIUM BARBARUM FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerRESVERATROLHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneSH-POLYPEPTIDE-11A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-POLYPEPTIDE-9A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsOLIGOPEPTIDESOLIGOPEPTIDE-10A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesARABIDOPSIS THALIANA EXTRACTPlant extract that might be helpful in repairing sun damage but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingASTAXANTHINHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammationGALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked poresRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-11A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-15A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-5A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesASPARTIC ACIDAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinklesCENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.SH-POLYPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMADECASSOSIDEAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationTRIPEPTIDE-10ADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolSODIUM SALICYLATEThe salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic productsRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. ARGININE PCAAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals in skinTHIOCTIC ACIDNIACINA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectASIATICOSIDEAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingSH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-68A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPANTHENYL TRIACETATEA stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skinHYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINOYL DIPALMITOYL GLYCERATEIdebenone complex. Helps neutralize free radicals in skinACETYL FARNESYLCYSTEINEA synthetic amino-acid that might help calm down inflammation in skin and reduce its irritation, but conclusive studies are not available at the moment. It can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin barrierOLIGOPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-56A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPHLORETINA potent antioxidant that is able to penetrate the skin barrier. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin, fight photodamage and reduce hyperpigmentation. It is, however, unstable and loses effectiveness when exposed to light. Effective products with phloretin must come in air-tight opaque packaging and use a sophisticated delivery technology ASCORBYL RETINOATEEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATYL GLUCOSIDEA synthetic version of green tea polyphenol that helps neutralize free radicals in skinOLEOYL DIPEPTIDE-15A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLEOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-31A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesCAPROOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-10A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXANOYL DIPEPTIDE-3 NORLEUCINE ACETATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesBIS-RETINAMIDO METHYLPENTANEOLIGOPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesCAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINSA group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skinCAMELLIA SINENSIS SEED OILA plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effectSH-POLYPEPTIDE-16A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesFOLIC ACIDCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skinTETRADECYL AMINOBUTYROYLVALYLAMINOBUTYRIC UREA TRIFLUOROACETATEA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acidPALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-28 D-SERINE DIPEPTIDE-7 PALMITAMIDEOLIGOPEPTIDE-4A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesAMINOBUTYRIC ACIDHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missingISOQUERCITRINAntioxidant that might help reduce free radicals and reduce melanin production, but more research is needed to understand if it is effective in skinHYALURONIC ACIDOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammationTETRAPEPTIDE-5A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTETRAPEPTIDE-36A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-5 DIAMINOBUTYROYL HYDROXYTHREONINETETRAPEPTIDE-30TETRAPEPTIDE-7A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTETRAPEPTIDE-38A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTETRAPEPTIDE-14PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-28PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-31A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTETRAPEPTIDE-40A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-42A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-33A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTRIPEPTIDE-13A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPENTAPEPTIDE-4A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesAZELAOYL BIS-DIPEPTIDE-10A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL SH-TRIPEPTIDE-4 AMIDEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesBIS-RETINOYL GEROTINE BIS-HYDROXYSUCCINIMIDECIS-RETINOIC ACIDDIMETHYLBUTANONE RETINOATEETHYL LACTYL RETINOATERETINYL ACETATEACETYL CYCLOHEXAPEPTIDE-34A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL DECAPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL HEPTAPEPTIDE-9A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-30A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-37A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL SH-HEPTAPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHUMAN ADIPOSE DERIVED STEM CELL CONDITIONED MEDIAA stem cell extract. There is no evidence that it is effective when applied topically to the skinASCORBIC ACID POLYPEPTIDEA type of peptide. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMYRISTOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-8A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesNICOTIANA BENTHAMIANA HEXAPEPTIDE-40 SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL ZINGERONEAn active compound sourced from ginger root. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It might be able to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve the skin tone. In small concentrations, used as a chelating agent and helps preserve stability of product formulations. BIOTINOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesCOPPER HEPTAPEPTIDE-14 PANTOTHENATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesCYCLOTETRAPEPTIDE-24 AMINOCYCLOHEXANE CARBOXYLATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesDECAPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesDECAPEPTIDE-22A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesFERULOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE-33A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesLACTOCOCCUS FERMENT LYSATEConsists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skinNICOTIANA BENTHAMIANA HEXAPEPTIDE-40 SH-POLYPEPTIDE-76A fusion peptide that combines peptides produced by human and plant cells. It might have anti-aging effect in skin and can help the skin moisturizationHUMAN FIBROBLAST CONDITIONED MEDIAA cocktail of amino acids that can stimulate skin cell growth and renewal having an anti-aging effectMELATONINA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincareDIPEPTIDE-4A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesFERRIC HEXAPEPTIDE-35A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-11A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-3A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesHEXAPEPTIDE-48 HCLA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesLAUROYL SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-33A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-POLYPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMYRISTOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-16A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesMYRISTOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-17A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesN-PROLYL PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-56 ACETATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesNIACINAMIDE/YEAST POLYPEPTIDEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesNONAPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOCTAPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-24A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-30A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-31A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-32A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-33A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-35A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOLIGOPEPTIDE-41A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesRHAMNOSEHelps oil and water mix together. It also helps attract water to the upper layer of the skinASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATEA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) PENTAPEPTIDE-18A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-POLYPEPTIDE-22A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-POLYPEPTIDE-45A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-POLYPEPTIDE-8A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPENTAPEPTIDE-34 TRIFLUOROACETATEA type of peptide that works as a great moisturizer. It might also have some anti-aging effect and help neutralize free radicals in skinSH-DECAPEPTIDE-7A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-OCTAPEPTIDE-4A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-9A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesNICOTINOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesADENOSINE TRIPHOSPHATEARGANIA SPINOSA SPROUT CELL EXTRACTPlant stem cell extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsSALICYLOYL PHYTOSPHINGOSINEHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have anti-aging benefits but solid study data is lackingPENTAPEPTIDE-59BARLEY SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-1ACETYL TYROSINAMIDEAn amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are availableDIPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have anti-aging benefitsPENTAPEPTIDE-48A type of peptide. It consists five different amino-acids: arginine, glutamic acid, leucine, serine and threonine. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have anti-aging benefits. One of the manufacturers discloses that creation of this peptide was inspired by a protein found in royal jelly. There is no evidence that this is in any way relevant to this ingredient's benefit for human skinGARDENIA JASMINOIDES MERISTEM CELL CULTUREA stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATEA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincareTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.RETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingNIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum productionSH-POLYPEPTIDE-17A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesTRIPEPTIDE-29ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-38ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-49OLIGOPEPTIDE-9PALMITOYL DECAPEPTIDE-21PALMITOYL HEPTAPEPTIDE-18PALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-14PALMITOYL SH-TRIPEPTIDE-5 NORISOLEUCYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-1PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-50PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1 ACETATEPALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-37PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-8PANTOTHENIC ACID/YEAST POLYPEPTIDEPENTAPEPTIDE-28PISUM SATIVUM PEPTIDERH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-33SACCHAROMYCES POLYPEPTIDESSH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-33SH-PENTAPEPTIDE-19SH-POLYPEPTIDE-1A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesSH-POLYPEPTIDE-59SH-POLYPEPTIDE-7TETRAPEPTIDE-23TRIPEPTIDE-3TROLOXOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE-33VALPROOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE-33ZINC PALMITOYL NONAPEPTIDE-14RH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-17
Anti-oxidation
ASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingCAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulationASCORBYL GLUCOSIDEA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsCENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though. MALPIGHIA EMARGINATA SEED EXTRACTCan help neutralize free radicals in skin but is typically not used in a high enough concentrationPALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACTAn extract from grape plant that can contain a potent antioxidant resveratrol. The manufacturer (Caudalie) claims that this particular extract is effective against hyperpigmentation. This effect would be explained by the resveratrol content. However, there is no independent research confirming the manufacturer's claim beside the potential for anti-oxidant activityRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingSILYBUM MARIANUM EXTRACTMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin toneETHYLBISIMINOMETHYLGUAIACOL MANGANESE CHLORIDEA potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applicationsTOCOPHEROLPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itselfERGOTHIONEINECan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lackingGLYCYRRHETINIC ACIDActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationHABERLEA RHODOPENSIS LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skinAMINOPROPYL ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)QUERCETINMight be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinTETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. UBIQUINONECoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenOLEANOLIC ACIDMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skinURSOLIC ACIDPHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrationsFERULIC ACIDA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10% TETRAHYDROBISDEMETHOXYDIFERULOYLMETHANEAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingTETRAHYDRODEMETHOXYDIFERULOYLMETHANEAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingTETRAHYDRODIFERULOYLMETHANEAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingBIFIDA FERMENT LYSATEConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effectCASTANEA SATIVA SEED EXTRACTA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicalsCREATINECan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectivenessVITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACTA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulationGLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsILEX PARAGUARIENSIS LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritatingPUNICA GRANATUM EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effectiveCHRYSINMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinSODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CSQUALENEAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeastLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity DECARBOXY CARNOSINE HCLMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is neededGINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingTOCOTRIENOLSA type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other formsCHITOSANInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinCARNOSINEA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damageVACCINIUM MACROCARPON SEED OILA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionLYCOPENEHelps neutralize free radicals in skin combating sun damage. Adds a red color to the productHYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINONEAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenLYCIUM BARBARUM FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerRESVERATROLHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsASTAXANTHINHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammationGALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked poresEPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACTA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsAPHANIZOMENON FLOS-AQUAE EXTRACTAn extract from ablue-green algae. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to neutralize free radicals3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACTGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthinRUBUS IDAEUS SEED OILA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMADECASSOSIDEAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationYEAST EXTRACTHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skinHEXYLRESORCINOLMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skinAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsKOJIC ACIDHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. ARGININE PCAAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals in skinTHIOCTIC ACIDNARINGENINA flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicalsASIATICOSIDEAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingCAMELLIA SEED OILOil from tea seeds. Can help neutralize free radicals in skinHYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINOYL DIPALMITOYL GLYCERATEIdebenone complex. Helps neutralize free radicals in skinTOCOPHERYL LINOLEATEA relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredientPHLORETINA potent antioxidant that is able to penetrate the skin barrier. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin, fight photodamage and reduce hyperpigmentation. It is, however, unstable and loses effectiveness when exposed to light. Effective products with phloretin must come in air-tight opaque packaging and use a sophisticated delivery technology CAMELLIA SINENSIS EXTRACTTea extract. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinCAMELLIA OLEIFERA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmeticsCEREUS GRANDIFLORUS FLOWER EXTRACTA cactus extract that can help neutralize free radicals because it contains a chemical compound called betacyanins and flavonolglycosides. Can help make the surface of the skin dryer helping make pores look smaller for a very short period of time. The concentrations usually used in cosmetics are too small to have any effectFICUS CARICA FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectHOVENIA DULCIS FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extractMALPIGHIA PUNICIFOLIA FRUIT EXTRACTA fruit extract that might help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATYL GLUCOSIDEA synthetic version of green tea polyphenol that helps neutralize free radicals in skinDIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOLCan help neutralize free radicals in skinEMBLICA OFFICINALIS FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that might be helping in neutralizing free radicals in skin. It could help reduce hyperpigmentation. There is some research to confirm its effectiveness in skinSACCHAROMYCES/BARLEY SEED FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and can help attract water to its upper layersSUPEROXIDE DISMUTASEAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variantsCAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINSA group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skinGLUTATHIONEA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinTARTARIC ACIDAn AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levelsPYRIDOXINEMight help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking. It might be irritatingISOQUERCITRINAntioxidant that might help reduce free radicals and reduce melanin production, but more research is needed to understand if it is effective in skinCYSTEINEMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentationASCORBIC ACID POLYPEPTIDEA type of peptide. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesESCULINA coumarin glucoside often extracted from chestnut. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and in theory could help strengthen capillaries, but there is no research to confirm its effectiveness in skinPOLYGONUM AVICULARE EXTRACTA plant extract that contains a flavanol Juglanin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce inflammationIMPERATA CYLINDRICA ROOT EXTRACTA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerCRYPTOMERIA JAPONICA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that might have antioxidant effect in skinASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATEA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) CAMELLIA JAPONICA FLOWER EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMELATONINA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincareTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKPENTAPEPTIDE-34 TRIFLUOROACETATEA type of peptide that works as a great moisturizer. It might also have some anti-aging effect and help neutralize free radicals in skinACETYL ZINGERONEAn active compound sourced from ginger root. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It might be able to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve the skin tone. In small concentrations, used as a chelating agent and helps preserve stability of product formulations. ARBUTINBeta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutinACETYL TYROSINAMIDEAn amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are availableSCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS EXTRACTA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare typically too low. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesGARDENIA JASMINOIDES MERISTEM CELL CULTUREA stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATEA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincareCORNUS OFFICINALIS FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that contains anti-oxidants. It might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used to help preserve the product formulation
Evens skin tone
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATEA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulationASCORBYL GLUCOSIDEA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLUCOSAMINE HCLMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.GLYCINE SOJA SEED EXTRACTAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Might be somewhat helpful in evening the skin tone.GLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidGLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA ROOT EXTRACTA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome) N-HYDROXYSUCCINIMIDEIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritatingNIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum productionPALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACTAn extract from grape plant that can contain a potent antioxidant resveratrol. The manufacturer (Caudalie) claims that this particular extract is effective against hyperpigmentation. This effect would be explained by the resveratrol content. However, there is no independent research confirming the manufacturer's claim beside the potential for anti-oxidant activityPISUM SATIVUM EXTRACTMight be helpful in protecting skin collagen and elastin from breaking down but solid research is lackingMAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highSTEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATEA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationDIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATEA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lighteningGLYCYRRHETINIC ACIDActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationAMINOPROPYL ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)RETINYL PALMITATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.MORUS BOMBYCIS ROOT EXTRACTA plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare productsTRAMETES VERSICOLOR EXTRACTA mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare productsDIMETHOXYTOLYL PROPYLRESORCINOLCan help reduce hyperpigmentation and lighten skin, but additional research is needed to test its effectiveness on human skinHYDROLYZED RICE BRAN EXTRACTA plant extract that might contain an active compound orthosilicic acid that could be helpful to regulate the level of pigment in skin, but solid research is lackingHYDROLYZED YEAST EXTRACTHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening propertiesLACTOBACILLUS/PUMPKIN FERMENT EXTRACTAn enzyme-based exfoliantVITIS VINIFERA JUICE EXTRACTContains AHAs that exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin due to the sugar contentPHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrationsLACTOBACILLUS/PUNICA GRANATUM FRUIT FERMENT EXTRACTAn enzyme-based exfoliantFERULIC ACIDA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10% TETRAHYDROBISDEMETHOXYDIFERULOYLMETHANEAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingTETRAHYDRODEMETHOXYDIFERULOYLMETHANEAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingTETRAHYDRODIFERULOYLMETHANEAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingNELUMBO NUCIFERA EXTRACTMight be somewhat helpful in protecting elastin in skin and evening skin tone, but good research is lacking. Contains fragrant components and can be irritating. TAURINECould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectivenessPHLORETINA potent antioxidant that is able to penetrate the skin barrier. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin, fight photodamage and reduce hyperpigmentation. It is, however, unstable and loses effectiveness when exposed to light. Effective products with phloretin must come in air-tight opaque packaging and use a sophisticated delivery technology YEAST EXTRACTHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skinMORUS NIGRA ROOT EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and have some skin-lightening effect, but good evidence is missingLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C. It is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. ALANINEAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lackingGLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsGLYCINE SOJA PROTEINA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lackingHYDROLYZED SOY PROTEINHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missingZINC GLUCONATETypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsPUNICA GRANATUM EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effectiveCHRYSINMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinELLAGIC ACIDCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneORCHID LEAF/ROOT/STEM EXTRACTA plant extract that can help even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation when used in high concentrationPINUS PINASTER BARK EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingETHYL LINOLEATEHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingHYDROXYPHENOXY PROPIONIC ACIDHelps reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin toneRESVERATROLHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsCERATONIA SILIQUA FRUIT EXTRACTPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingGALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked poresMORUS ALBA BARK EXTRACTA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence is lackingLACTOBACILLUS/PORTULACA OLERACEA FERMENT EXTRACTObtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missingRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsUNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINEAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone. PRUNUS MUME FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that might have an anti-oxidant effect and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence of effectiveness is lackingMADECASSOSIDEAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsNIACINA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsTRANEXAMIC ACIDAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orallyHEXYLRESORCINOLMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skinPHENYLETHYL RESORCINOLMight help reduce hyperpigmentation in skin and help neutralize free radicalsCAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACIDKOJIC ACIDHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. NARCISSUS TAZETTA BULB EXTRACTMight contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lackingGLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACTA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsBIFIDA FERMENT LYSATEConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effectPOLYPODIUM LEUCOTOMOS LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that has been shown to be effective in helping boost skin's ability to protect against UV radiation and reduce hyperpigmentation when taken orally. No conclusive evidence for its effectiveness and effective concentration in topical applicationALPHA-ARBUTINMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutinVIGNA RADIATA SEED EXTRACTBean extract that in theory might help to reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are missingGLYCYRRHIZA URALENSIS ROOT EXTRACTLicorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentationALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BARK EXTRACTA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BARK/SEED EXTRACTA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN BRANCH/LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN FLOWER EXTRACTA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingALBIZIA JULIBRISSIN SEED EXTRACTA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingPANCRATIUM MARITIMUM EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It might help reduce hyperpigmentationEMBLICA OFFICINALIS FRUIT EXTRACTA plant extract that might be helping in neutralizing free radicals in skin. It could help reduce hyperpigmentation. There is some research to confirm its effectiveness in skinPAEONIA LACTIFLORA ROOT EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureGLUTATHIONEA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinISOQUERCITRINAntioxidant that might help reduce free radicals and reduce melanin production, but more research is needed to understand if it is effective in skinSALICYLIC ACIDUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)CYSTEINEMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentationDILAURYL THIODIPROPIONATEHelps preserve the product formulation. It also can have a skin lightening effect. It can be irritating.DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANYL PALMITATEAn oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real lifeTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKPOTASSIUM METHOXYSALICYLATECan help reduce hyperpigmentationEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATEA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincareARBUTINBeta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutinRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolRETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingISOBUTYLAMIDO THIAZOLYL RESORCINOLSometimes referred to as Thiamidol (patented by Beiersdorf). A compound that can reduce melanin production in skin. Can help to fade pigmentation spots quicker and even out the skin tone. It is a relatively new compound and the research on it is ongoing. The first studies show that it might be as effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone but with fewer side effectsHYDROQUINONECOPPER GLUCONATETypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingRESVERATROL DIMETHYL ETHERA more stable derivative of anti-oxidant resveratrol. There is not enough research to confirm its efficacy in skinASPERGILLUS FERMENTAn extract from fungus (mold) that typically appears on rice. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, might help neutralize free radicals and possibly somewhat reduce hyperpigmentation
Anti-blemish
ALLANTOINHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydratedCAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulationGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidLAURIC ACIDHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishesLINOLEIC ACIDAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged poresPHYTOSPHINGOSINEA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effectROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACTCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingSALICYLIC ACIDUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)RETINYL PALMITATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectNIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum productionOLEANOLIC ACIDMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skinURSOLIC ACIDTAURINECould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectivenessLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity ZINC GLUCONATETypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinGLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsBETA-GLUCANHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinklesMELIA AZADIRACHTA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingCOPPER GLUCONATETypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsSODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CCENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though. ETHYL LINOLEATEHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingCHITOSANInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinBENZOYL PEROXIDEA potent anti-bacterial ingredient that is effective against acne. Often leads to skin dryness and can be irritatingZINC ASPARTATECan help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skinACETYL CARNITINE HCLMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skinCARNITINE HCLMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skinGINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsGALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked poresLACTOBACILLUS/PORTULACA OLERACEA FERMENT EXTRACTObtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missingZINC PCAA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missingRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeCARNITINECENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACTA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.BAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationPANTOTHENIC ACIDHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skinSULFURADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneCAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACIDNIACINA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectCANNABIDIOL - DERIVED FROM EXTRACT OR TINCTURE OR RESIN OF CANNABISCBD. Can bind to skin cell receptors and can reduce inflammation, itching, and help support skin barrier functionCANNABIDIOL - SYNTHETICALLY PRODUCEDCBD. Can bind to skin cell receptors and can reduce inflammation, itching, and help support skin barrier functionRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. MOROCCAN LAVA CLAYHelps absorb oil (for the time of application) and creates a thicker product consistencyHEILMOOR CLAYZINC COCETH SULFATEHelps water and oil mix together and works are a cleansing agent. Might deposit small quantities of zinc onto the skin after cleansing that might be somewhat helpful for acne-prone skin but conclusive research is missingOENOTHERA BIENNIS OILHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionBETAINE SALICYLATEExfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acidPISTACIA LENTISCUS GUMA tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingINULINHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lackingPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureBENTONITEHelps stabilize the product formulationTRIFAROTENEOCTADECENEDIOIC ACIDHelps oil and water mix together. Might help suppress growth of acne-triggering bacteria in skinSALIX ALBA BARK EXTRACTA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectSODIUM SULFACETAMIDEA topical antibiotic used to treat acne and seborrheic dermatitisKAOLINA type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color COLLOIDAL SULFURSALIX ALBA BARK POWDERA powder from a tree bark. It might contain some salicylic acidEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATEA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincareRETINYL RETINOATEA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.RETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals