Retinyl retinoate
On 2 avoid lists
|In 4 skincare routines
Summary
Works for
- Exfoliation
- Anti-blemish
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
Irritancy risk
3
HighA retinoid molecule that has a retinol part attached to a retinoic acid part. It is a synthetic molecule meaning that it has been not (at least yet) found in nature. It is more stable than retinol. There are first in-vivo studies (done with human volunteers) that suggest that retinyl retinoate can be more effective than retinol in reducing wrinkles. It is also most likely as effective as retinol in reducing acne, clogged pores, and evening out the skin tone. Manufacturers claim that retinyl retinoate is less irritating than retinol, but there is not enough independent data to confirm this.
Where this fits
Products with Retinyl retinoate
MedicubeBuy Medicube Deep Vita A Retinol Serum Australia - K-Beauty Storeniacinamidehydroxypinacolone retinoateretinyl retinoate +25 actives
Evens skin tone Anti-aging +4
Fragrance
Price unavailable
DermaquestStem Cell 3D Active Retinol Repair Serum - 1%niacinamideretinyl retinoateretinol +14 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +4
Price unavailable
TheramidA-Retinoateretinalretinyl retinoatepanthenol +9 actives
Anti-aging Moisturizing +3
Price unavailable
NaturopathicaArgan & Retinol Wrinkle Repair Night Creamretinolretinyl retinoatebakuchiol +14 actives
Anti-aging Evens skin tone +4
Price unavailable
Verso BotanicalsSuper Eye Serumdipeptide-2retinyl retinoatepalmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 +6 actives
Anti-aging Exfoliation +3
Fragrance
Price unavailable
VERSOBlemish Fix by Versoniacinamideretinyl retinoateglycerin +2 actives
Anti-aging Exfoliation +3
Price unavailable
Medik8r-Retinoate Youth Activating Cream Intensecopper heptapeptide-14 pantothenateretinyl retinoateretinal +15 actives
Evens skin tone Anti-aging +3
Price unavailable
It CosmeticsIT's Celebrate Your Skincolloidal oatmealretinyl retinoatepalmitoyl pentapeptide-4 +65 actives
Cleansing Exfoliation +1
Price unavailable
bareMineralsPrime Time BB Primer-Cream Daily Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 30retinyl retinoatepanthenolpeg-10 dimethicone +5 actives
Sun protection Evens skin tone +4
Price unavailable
Scientific sources
Similar ingredients
Anti-aging
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHEPTAPEPTIDE-15 PALMITATEA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesPALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingTETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity GLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. PALMITOYL DIPEPTIDE-28 D-SERINE DIPEPTIDE-7 PALMITAMIDECIS-RETINOIC ACIDDECAPEPTIDE-22A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesOCTAPEPTIDE-2A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinklesACETYL TYROSINAMIDEAn amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are availableTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.RETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingNIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture
Exfoliation
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEGLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom) RETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingSALICYLIC ACIDUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)LACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeCAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACIDHYDROXYETHYL UREAA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredientsBETAINE SALICYLATEExfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acid
Evens skin tone
1-TRIMETHYL-2-CYCLOHEXENYL-1-PENTEN-3-ONEASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATEA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDEA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsACETYL GLUCOSAMINEAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skinGLUCOSAMINE HCLMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.GLYCOLIC ACIDAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidLACTIC ACIDAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom) NIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moistureSTEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATEA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationGLYCYRRHETINIC ACIDActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationAMINOPROPYL ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)RETINYL PALMITATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.DIMETHOXYTOLYL PROPYLRESORCINOLCan help reduce hyperpigmentation and lighten skin, but additional research is needed to test its effectiveness on human skinFERULIC ACIDA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10% LACTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATEBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. GLUCONOLACTONEA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMALTOBIONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is genter than AHAs. In addition, it helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsCHRYSINMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinELLAGIC ACIDCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneORCHID LEAF/ROOT/STEM EXTRACTA plant extract that can help even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation when used in high concentrationHYDROXYPHENOXY PROPIONIC ACIDHelps reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin toneMANDELIC ACIDHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsGALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATEA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked poresRETINYL PROPIONATEThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATEA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsUNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINEAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone. NIACINA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicalsTRANEXAMIC ACIDAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tonePHENYLETHYL RESORCINOLMight help reduce hyperpigmentation in skin and help neutralize free radicalsCAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACIDKOJIC ACIDHelps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritatingRETINYL LINOLEATEAn ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin. ALPHA-ARBUTINMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutinPANCRATIUM MARITIMUM EXTRACTA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It might help reduce hyperpigmentationPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureGLUTATHIONEA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinISOQUERCITRINAntioxidant that might help reduce free radicals and reduce melanin production, but more research is needed to understand if it is effective in skinDIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANYL PALMITATEAn oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real lifeTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKPOTASSIUM METHOXYSALICYLATECan help reduce hyperpigmentationEPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATEA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincareARBUTINBeta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutinRETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingASCORBIC ACIDThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingISOBUTYLAMIDO THIAZOLYL RESORCINOLSometimes referred to as Thiamidol (patented by Beiersdorf). A compound that can reduce melanin production in skin. Can help to fade pigmentation spots quicker and even out the skin tone. It is a relatively new compound and the research on it is ongoing. The first studies show that it might be as effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone but with fewer side effectsHYDROQUINONE
Anti-blemish
SALICYLIC ACIDUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)NIACINAMIDEIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moistureSODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATEA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CETHYL LINOLEATEHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingCHITOSANInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinBENZOYL PEROXIDEA potent anti-bacterial ingredient that is effective against acne. Often leads to skin dryness and can be irritatingZINC ASPARTATECan help reduce acne and blemishes and reduce inflammation in skinGLUCONIC ACIDA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsBAKUCHIOLA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationSULFURADAPALENEA retinoid that is effective against acne and keratosis pilaris. It can also help reduce signs of aging (fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity) and can improve skin toneBETAINE SALICYLATEExfoliating acid, a "relative" of salicylic acidPOTASSIUM AZELOYL DIGLYCINATEA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting
the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer textureCOLLOIDAL SULFURTretinoinBioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UKHYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATEA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.RETINALOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingRETINOLTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingAZELAIC ACIDIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals