AHC

AHC Hydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for Face

Name: AHC - Hydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for Face
Brand: AHC

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

70 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Hydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for Face”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl hexapeptide-8, ascorbic acid polypeptide, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, copper tripeptide-1, niacinamide, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, panthenol, phytosphingosine, urea

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.6%

Glucosamine hclKey active· HumectantEffect: HighMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.1–0.4%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.4%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.8–2.7%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.1–0.45%

Glycosyl trehaloseKey activeEffect: High~0.15–0.65%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.7%

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.7%

Saccharide hydrolysateKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.15–0.5%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.6%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.35–0.8%

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl esterHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

OrnithineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

TyrosineKey activeEffect: High~0.15–0.6%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.55%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.15–0.55%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.6%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.15–0.55%

Ascorbic acid polypeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~2.8–4.1%

Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.15–0.6%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.15–0.5%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.15–0.6%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1–1.5%

Magnesium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

IsoleucineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.15–0.55%

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.5%

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.5%

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.35%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.6%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.7%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.15–0.65%

CitrullineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

Copper tripeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.15–0.5%

HistidineKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.15–0.6%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%

CysteineKey activeEffect: HighMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.15–0.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.9–1.35%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.15–0.65%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~5.7–8.6%

Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.15–0.65%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.5%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.55–1.35%

Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Key active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.1–3.2%

Hydrogenated starch hydrolysateKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can add sweet taste to lip products~0.15–0.5%

Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.15–0.5%

Polyquaternium-51Effect: LowAn emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin~0.15–0.55%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.6%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.15–0.55%

Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~1.5–2.3%

Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.6%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.5%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.15–0.65%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.5%

Macadamia integrifolia seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

Oryza sativa extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

Anti-aging

23 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This cult favourite Korean formulation is designed to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while supporting collagen production to naturally firm and plump the under eyes for a youthful-looking visage.”

Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, adenosine, niacinamide, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl hexapeptide-8, ascorbic acid polypeptide, aspartic acid, copper tripeptide-1, folic acid, hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, lysine, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1–1.5%

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.6%

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12Key activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.5%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.7%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%

Copper tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.15–0.5%

Folic acidKey activeEffect: MediumCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.15–0.5%

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinoneKey activeEffect: MediumAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.5%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.7%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl esterKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%

Ascorbic acid polypeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%

Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.1–0.4%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.6%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 9 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine, cysteine, glucosamine hcl.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glucosamine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.1–0.4%

AlanineEffect: LowAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.6%

CysteineEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.15–0.6%

TaurineEffect: LowCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness~0.15–0.65%

Bifida ferment lysateEffect: Low, below effective doseConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.5%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 23 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - ascorbic acid polypeptide, cysteine, epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, ficus carica fruit extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.6%

CysteineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.15–0.6%

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~0.15–0.5%

Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.15–0.5%

Calendula officinalis flower oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant~0.15–0.6%

Centaurea cyanus flower waterEffect: LowCornflower water. Might have an anti-oxidant effect and can help reduce inflammation in skin. However, it can be irritating on its own~0.15–0.5%

RutinEffect: LowAn antioxidant that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.15–0.5%

Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.15–0.6%

Achillea millefolium extractEffect: LowPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.15–0.6%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.5%

Alchemilla vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has astringent properties. In other words, it might be able to interact with keratin in the uppermost layer of the skin to reduce swelling and create a temporal tightening effect. It can be irritating~0.15–0.5%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.15–0.6%

Phaseolus lunatus seed extractEffect: LowBean seed extract. It might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.75%

Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.1–0.4%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.5%

Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.55%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

UreaKey activeEffect: MediumNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.55%

Maris salEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration~0.15–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Parfum, Calendula officinalis flower oil + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 43 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Calendula officinalis flower oilA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritantHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

Alchemilla vulgaris extractA plant extract that has astringent properties. In other words, it might be able to interact with keratin in the uppermost layer of the skin to reduce swelling and create a temporal tightening effect. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

Centaurea cyanus flower waterCornflower water. Might have an anti-oxidant effect and can help reduce inflammation in skin. However, it can be irritating on its ownHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

Mentha piperita leaf extractUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

Primula veris extract—High~0.15–0.55%est.

Malva sylvestris extract—High~0.15–0.5%est.

Achillea millefolium extractPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

Rhododendron ferrugineum extract—High~0.15–0.5%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~3.9–5.9%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.35–0.85%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.

Acrylates copolymerUsed to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen) and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinoneAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.5%est.

Sorbitan laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Sodium cocoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.7%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

TaurineCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectivenessMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.5%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.55–1.35%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Cyclopentasiloxane~5.7–8.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Methylpropanediol~3.9–5.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol

Betaine~2.8–4.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)~2.1–3.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)

Glycerin~1.8–2.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Cyclohexasiloxane~1.5–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Hexanediol~1.3–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Hexanediol

Niacinamide~1–1.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Dimethicone~0.9–1.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Cetearyl alcohol~0.55–1.35%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Polysorbate 60~0.45–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.35–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Panthenol~0.3–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Squalane~0.35–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Dioscorea japonica root extract~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dioscorea japonica root extract

Parfum~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Calendula officinalis flower oil~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant

More about Calendula officinalis flower oil

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycosyl trehalose~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Glycosyl trehalose

Sorbitan isostearate~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can add sweet taste to lip products

More about Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate

Butylene glycol~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Raffinose~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Raffinose

Adenosine~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Lecithin~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Disodium edta~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Xanthan gum~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Oenothera biennis oil~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil

Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Polyquaternium-51~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin

More about Polyquaternium-51

Dipropylene glycol~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Sodium palmitoyl proline~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium palmitoyl proline

Ficus carica fruit extract~0.15–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.15–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract

Ceramide np~0.15–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Folic acid~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

Can help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin

More about Folic acid

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.15–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Hydrolyzed lupine protein~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed lupine protein

Alchemilla vulgaris extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has astringent properties. In other words, it might be able to interact with keratin in the uppermost layer of the skin to reduce swelling and create a temporal tightening effect. It can be irritating

More about Alchemilla vulgaris extract

Bifida ferment lysate~0.15–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate

Centaurea cyanus flower water~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Cornflower water. Might have an anti-oxidant effect and can help reduce inflammation in skin. However, it can be irritating on its own

More about Centaurea cyanus flower water

Helichrysum italicum flower water~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Helichrysum italicum flower water

Cholesterol~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Macadamia integrifolia seed oil~0.15–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Macadamia integrifolia seed oil

Elaeis guineensis oil~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Schizosaccharomyces ferment filtrate~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Schizosaccharomyces ferment filtrate

Collagen extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Collagen extract

Propanediol~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Alcohol~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Anastatica hierochuntica extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Anastatica hierochuntica extract

Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Argania spinosa kernel extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Argania spinosa kernel extract

Phytosphingosine~0.15–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Tromethamine~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Maltodextrin~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Acrylates copolymer~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen) and create a thicker product consistency

More about Acrylates copolymer

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone~0.15–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone

Tocopherol~0.15–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Lactic acid~0.1–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.15–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract

Sorbitan laurate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan laurate

Lepidium meyenii root extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lepidium meyenii root extract

Saccharide hydrolysate~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Saccharide hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein

Salicornia herbacea extract~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Salicornia herbacea extract

Asparagus officinalis stem extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Asparagus officinalis stem extract

Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize formulations

More about Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose

Oryza sativa extract~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Oryza sativa extract

Melissa officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Melissa officinalis leaf extract

Mentha piperita leaf extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita leaf extract

Primula veris extract~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Primula veris extract

Malva sylvestris extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Malva sylvestris extract

Achillea millefolium extract~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Achillea millefolium extract

Veronica officinalis extract~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Veronica officinalis extract

Sodium cocoyl glutamate~0.2–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium cocoyl glutamate

Rutin~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

An antioxidant that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rutin

Rhododendron ferrugineum extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Rhododendron ferrugineum extract

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Nymphaea alba flower extract~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nymphaea alba flower extract

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.15–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Ascorbic acid polypeptide~0.1–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Ascorbic acid polypeptide

Dipotassium phosphate~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the pH of the product

More about Dipotassium phosphate

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Plankton extract~0.15–0.5%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract

Carbomer~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester~0.15–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester

Ceramide ap~0.15–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.15–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Copper tripeptide-1~0.15–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.

More about Copper tripeptide-1

Vp/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vp/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.1–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed sesame protein pg-propyl methylsilanediol~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed sesame protein pg-propyl methylsilanediol

Gluconolactone~0.1–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationAnti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Calcium gluconate~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Saussurea involucrata extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Saussurea involucrata extract

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.15–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.15–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid

Arginine ferulate~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Arginine ferulate

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12~0.15–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizing

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12

Acetyl tripeptide-1~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acetyl tripeptide-1

Disodium phosphate~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate

Acetic acid~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acetic acid

Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Phaseolus lunatus seed extract~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Bean seed extract. It might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Phaseolus lunatus seed extract

Retinol~0.15–0.6%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin toneIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneMattifyingAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Sodium lactate~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Magnesium pca~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Magnesium pca

Lysine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine

Leucine~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Leucine

Methionine~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Methionine

Valine~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Valine

Serine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Sucrose~0.15–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Cysteine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation

More about Cysteine

Proline~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Histidine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Histidine

Calcium chloride~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating

More about Calcium chloride

Taurine~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness

More about Taurine

Tryptophan~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tryptophan

Asparagine~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Asparagine

Formic acid~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Formic acid

1-methylhydantoin-2-imide~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide

Magnesium citrate~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Magnesium citrate

Magnesium chloride~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride

Citrulline~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Citrulline

Ammonia~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ammonia

Ornithine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Ornithine

Uric acid~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Uric acid

Tyrosine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Tyrosine

Threonine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine

Phenylalanine~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Potassium hydroxide~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide

Alanine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Arginine~0.15–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Urea~0.15–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Isoleucine~0.15–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function

More about Isoleucine

Maris sal~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal

Aspartic acid~0.1–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Glycine~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Glucosamine hcl~0.1–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.

More about Glucosamine hcl

Glutamic acid~0.1–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Glutamine~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glutamine

Ceramide eop~0.1–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eop

Benzyl benzoate~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin), Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Panthenol, Squalane, Dioscorea japonica root extract, Parfum, Calendula officinalis flower oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycosyl trehalose, Sorbitan isostearate, Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, Butylene glycol, Raffinose, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium edta, Hydrogenated lecithin, Xanthan gum, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Borago officinalis seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Polyquaternium-51, Dipropylene glycol, Sodium palmitoyl proline, Ficus carica fruit extract, Centella asiatica extract, Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, Ceramide np, Folic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydrolyzed lupine protein, Alchemilla vulgaris extract, Bifida ferment lysate, Centaurea cyanus flower water, Helichrysum italicum flower water, Cholesterol, Macadamia integrifolia seed oil, Elaeis guineensis oil, Biosaccharide gum-1, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Schizosaccharomyces ferment filtrate, Collagen extract, Propanediol, Alcohol, Anastatica hierochuntica extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Argania spinosa kernel extract, Phytosphingosine, Tromethamine, Maltodextrin, Acrylates copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Caprylyl glycol, Lactic acid, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Sorbitan laurate, Lepidium meyenii root extract, Saccharide hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Salicornia herbacea extract, Asparagus officinalis stem extract, Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, Oryza sativa extract, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Mentha piperita leaf extract, Primula veris extract, Malva sylvestris extract, Achillea millefolium extract, Veronica officinalis extract, Sodium cocoyl glutamate, Rutin, Rhododendron ferrugineum extract, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Nymphaea alba flower extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Benzyl alcohol, Ascorbic acid polypeptide, Dipotassium phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Plankton extract, Carbomer, Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, Ceramide ap, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Copper tripeptide-1, Vp/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed sesame protein pg-propyl methylsilanediol, Gluconolactone, Calcium gluconate, Potassium sorbate, Saussurea involucrata extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Sodium benzoate, Dehydroacetic acid, Arginine ferulate, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Acetyl tripeptide-1, Disodium phosphate, Acetic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Phaseolus lunatus seed extract, Retinol, Sodium lactate, Magnesium pca, Lysine, Leucine, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Proline, Histidine, Calcium chloride, Taurine, Tryptophan, Asparagine, Formic acid, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, Magnesium citrate, Magnesium chloride, Citrulline, Ammonia, Ornithine, Uric acid, Tyrosine, Threonine, Phenylalanine, Potassium hydroxide, Alanine, Arginine, Urea, Isoleucine, Maris sal, Aspartic acid, Glycine, Glucosamine hcl, Glutamic acid, Glutamine, Ceramide eop, Benzyl benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	AHCHydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for FaceYOUR PRODUCT	It CosmeticsConfidence in an Eye Cream	KLAVUURejuve Pearlsation Multi Pearl Peptide Eye Cream	ColorescienceTotal Eye Firm Repair Cream
Match	—	74%	73%	65%
Price	$21.14	$39.00+$17.86	$16.85−$4.29	$89.10+$67.96
Shared key ingredients	—	24 of 55	21 of 55	9 of 55
Key difference	—	Colloidal Oatmeal	Fructooligosaccharides	Salicylic Acid
Irritancy	High	High	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "AHC - Hydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for Face" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, panthenol, urea, alanine and arginine) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and phytosphingosine) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This product contains acids (gluconolactone and lactic acid). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). PHAs (gluconolactone) especially are great for improving skin hydration. They might be even able to stimulate the production of skin's natural humectants and support the healthy skin microbiome.
This moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.15% - 0.60%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.15% - 0.65%, ceramide np 0.15% - 0.60%, ceramide eop 0.10% - 0.35% and ceramide ap 0.15% - 0.50%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.15% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.70%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.70%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.15% - 0.50%, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.15% - 0.60%, copper tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.50%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.10% - 0.50%, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester 0.15% - 0.55% and ascorbic acid polypeptide 0.10% - 0.50%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.15% - 0.50% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 18.20£ up to 25.99£ in the United Kingdom, for 26.00$ in the United States and for 31.90CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 83 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
5
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
6
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
7
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
8
Safety assessment of hydrogenated starch hydrolysatesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oilmdedge.com
11
Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in childrenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
14
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
15
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
17
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
19
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
20
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
21
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivopubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Effect of herbal mixture composed of Alchemilla vulgaris and Mimosa on wound healing process.semanticscholar.org
25
Bifidobacterium longumlysate, a new ingredient forreactive skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
27
Anti-inflammatory and immunological effects of Centaurea cyanus flower-headsresearchgate.net
28
Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
29
Genetic Architecture of Palm Oil Fatty Acid Composition in Cultivated Oil Palm (Elaeis guineensis Jacq.) Compared to Its Wild Relative E. oleifera (H.B.K) Cortésjournals.plos.org
30
Nutrient composition of Nigerian palm kernel from the dura and tenera varieties of the oil palm (Elaeis guineensis)sciencedirect.com
31
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
32
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
33
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
35
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
36
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredientsjournals.sagepub.com
37
Amended Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
38
Allergic contact dermatitis to hydroxydecyl ubiquinone (idebenone) following application of anti-ageing cosmetic creamncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
40
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
42
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
43
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
44
Therapeutic Potential of Polyphenols from Epilobium Angustifolium (Fireweed): Polyphenols from Fireweedresearchgate.net
45
Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Anthocyanins Extracted from Oryza sativa L. in Primary Dermal Fibroblastshindawi.com
46
Rice antioxidants: phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, tocopherols, tocotrienols, c-oryzanol, and phytic acidonlinelibrary.wiley.com
47
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