MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Total Eye Treatment

Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Ceramide ng, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine + 46 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“This 3-in-1 multitasking eye treatment moisturizes, corrects and protects to deliver dermatologist-level improvements in the look of fine lines, skin tone, radiance, smoothness and firmness.”
Source: MD complete

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, panthenol, phytosphingosine, urea

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.55%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.5–3.1%
GlycogenKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.2%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.25–0.45%
Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.5%
Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Nigella sativa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid~0.25–0.45%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.3–0.5%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.5%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.3–0.6%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~3.2–3.9%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.3–1.5%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.1–2.6%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.25–0.45%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: HighA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.4%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.4%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.9–1.1%
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.25–0.5%
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.25–0.4%
HoneyKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen~0.2–0.4%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.25–0.45%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~6.3–7.7%
Dimethicone crosspolymerKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~0.25–0.45%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.15–0.3%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed rice extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is claimed to be helpful in moisturizing and lightening the skin, but evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%
Chenopodium quinoa seed extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–0.75%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Oryza sativa extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Anti-aging
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 11 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“This 3-in-1 multitasking eye treatment moisturizes, corrects and protects to deliver dermatologist-level improvements in the look of fine lines, skin tone, radiance, smoothness and firmness.”
Source: MD complete

This product contains palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: MediumA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.4%
Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
ChrysinEffect: LowMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.25–0.45%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: LowA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.25–0.45%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–0.75%
Evens skin tone
Chrysin, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate + 3 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“Combines an advanced, bioavailable form of Vitamin C with naturally derived Vitamin E and phytonutrients to help even and brighten skin tone.”
Source: MD complete

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: chrysin, stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

ChrysinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.25–0.4%
N-hydroxysuccinimideEffect: LowIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed rice extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is claimed to be helpful in moisturizing and lightening the skin, but evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Ubiquinone, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract + 16 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - chrysin, epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, rubus idaeus seed oil, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~0.25–0.45%
ChrysinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.25–0.5%
Rubus idaeus seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.3–0.55%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.25–0.45%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.3–0.5%
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%
Calendula officinalis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Punica granatum fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that is used to add a fragrance to the product. It might have some antioxidant properties~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–0.75%
Oryza sativa extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Citrus grandis peel, Citrus paradisi fruit extract + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 39 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus grandis peel—High~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus paradisi fruit extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.25–0.45%est.
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus clementina fruit extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus tangerina peel extract—High~0.25–0.5%est.
Gardenia taitensis flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Punica granatum fruit extractA fruit extract that is used to add a fragrance to the product. It might have some antioxidant propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
N-hydroxysuccinimideIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Spilanthes acmella flower extractPlant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Ethyl macadamiateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.3–1.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Nigella sativa seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acidMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Rubus idaeus seed oilA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Chlorhexidine digluconateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
ChrysinMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.5–0.75%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclopentasiloxane~6.3–7.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin~4.2–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polymethylsilsesquioxane~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Dimethicone~2.5–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Squalane~2.1–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Acetamidoethoxyethanol~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A new synthetic humectant that, according to the first tests, works better than glycerin in attracting moisture to the skin surface. It might be able to keep attracting water to the upper layer of the skin for longer compared with glycerin. Its texture is also nicer. Because of this, products with it are likely to be less sticky and more pleasant on application. It is unlikely to cause irritation and products with it work for sensitive skin. For best hydration results, it should be used at about 5-10% in a formulation. This ingredient is developed by a supplier Nouryon and is sold to skincare brands under the name Elfamoist AC.

More about Acetamidoethoxyethanol
Ethyl macadamiate~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ethyl macadamiate
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.3–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Urea~0.9–1.1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Peg-40 stearate~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 stearate
Stearyl alcohol~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Butylene glycol~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Betaine~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Panthenol~0.3–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Schizophyllan~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Schizophyllan
Beta-glucan~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Peg-100 stearate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer
Phenyl trimethicone~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Nigella sativa seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid

More about Nigella sativa seed oil
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid

More about Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate
Citrus grandis peel~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citrus paradisi fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Citrus bergamia peel oil expressed~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract
Bisabolol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate~0.25–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

More about Stearyl glycyrrhetinate
Rosa damascena extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate
Form of
Not recognized
Hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Arginine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Octyldodecanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Phytosterol (plant sterol)
Not recognized
Steareth-20~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20
Persea gratissima oil~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Glycogen~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glycogen
Decyl glucoside~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract
Sodium butyroyl hyaluronate~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Form of
Not recognized
Hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Triethyl citrate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Sodium citrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Zinc citrate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Zinc citrate
Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid
Avenanthramides~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Citrus clementina fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Citrus limon peel extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Citrus tangerina peel extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Gardenia taitensis flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Gardenia taitensis flower extract
Ubiquinone~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Ceramide ng~0.3–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng
Oryza sativa extract~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Oryza sativa extract
Chenopodium quinoa seed extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Chenopodium quinoa seed extract
Oxothiazolidine~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Punica granatum fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that is used to add a fragrance to the product. It might have some antioxidant properties

More about Punica granatum fruit extract
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Tropolone~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tropolone
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil
Rubus idaeus seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus idaeus seed oil
N-hydroxysuccinimide~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating

More about N-hydroxysuccinimide
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Chlorhexidine digluconate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorhexidine digluconate
Hydrolyzed rice extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizing

A plant extract that is claimed to be helpful in moisturizing and lightening the skin, but evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed rice extract
Spilanthes acmella flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skin

More about Spilanthes acmella flower extract
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Farnesol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Chrysin~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin

More about Chrysin
Honey~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterial

Helps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen

More about Honey
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Biotin~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Magnesium chloride~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Squalane, Acetamidoethoxyethanol, Ethyl macadamiate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Urea, Peg-40 stearate, Stearyl alcohol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butylene glycol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Betaine, Butylene glycol, Panthenol, Schizophyllan, Beta-glucan, Peg-100 stearate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Pentylene glycol, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Phenyl trimethicone, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, Citrus grandis peel, Caprylyl glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus paradisi fruit extract, Citrus bergamia peel oil expressed, Hyaluronic acid, Allantoin, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract, Bisabolol, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Rosa damascena extract, Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, Unknown, Hyaluronic acid, Arginine, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Octyldodecanol, Unknown, Steareth-20, Persea gratissima oil, Glycogen, Decyl glucoside, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Sodium butyroyl hyaluronate, Unknown, Hyaluronic acid, Triethyl citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzoic acid, Sodium citrate, Zinc citrate, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Avenanthramides, Olea europaea fruit oil, Citrus clementina fruit extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Citrus tangerina peel extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Gardenia taitensis flower extract, Ubiquinone, Ceramide ng, Oryza sativa extract, Chenopodium quinoa seed extract, Oxothiazolidine, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Punica granatum fruit extract, Borago officinalis seed oil, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate, Tropolone, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Rubus idaeus seed oil, N-hydroxysuccinimide, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Chlorhexidine digluconate, Hydrolyzed rice extract, Spilanthes acmella flower extract, Tocopherol, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Farnesol, Chrysin, Honey, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Biotin, Magnesium chloride

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Product summary

"MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson - Total Eye Treatment" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson - Total Eye Treatment ticks this box. Panthenol, urea, arginine, betaine and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide ng, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, phytosphingosine and borago officinalis seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide ng 0.30% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.20% - 0.35%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine 0.25% - 0.45% and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.25% - 0.45%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 34.99$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 57 studies and safety reviews.

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    Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Total Eye Treatment
MD Complete by Dr. Brian ZelicksonTotal Eye Treatment

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