Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Retinal, Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 + 6 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Enriched with 0.05% Retinaldehyde, Peptide Complex, 9 Antioxidants & 5 Brighteners, this multitasking overnight mask hydrates and brightens stressed-out skin while reducing signs of premature ageing.”
Source: Beauty Bay

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.6%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.8%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%
ChrysinEffect: LowMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.15–0.3%
Glutamylamidoethyl imidazoleEffect: LowA peptide that is claimed to be helpful in supporting vitamin D production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.15–0.3%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.25–0.45%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%
Moisturizing
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 + 15 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Enriched with 0.05% Retinaldehyde, Peptide Complex, 9 Antioxidants & 5 Brighteners, this multitasking overnight mask hydrates and brightens stressed-out skin while reducing signs of premature ageing.”
Source: Beauty Bay

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dextran, galactoarabinan.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, argania spinosa kernel oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.2%
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.6%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4–4.9%
Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is sometimes referred to as "natural" hyaluronic acid (even though hyaluronic acid is not unnatural and is present in human skin)~0.3–0.5%
DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.1–0.25%
GalactoarabinanKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.8%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Argania spinosa kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~2.3–2.8%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.15–0.25%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.3%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.25–0.45%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%
Anti-blemish
Retinal, Niacinamide + 1 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“This multi-purpose skin treatment fights blemishes, sun damage and dullness with its antioxidant-rich formula, enhancing complexions with a youthful-looking finish.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.35%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.25–0.45%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinal, Ellagic acid + 8 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains ellagic acid, glutathione. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: albizia julibrissin bark extract, chrysin, phenylethyl resorcinol, resveratrol dimethyl ether.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Ellagic acidKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.15–0.3%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.35%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Phenylethyl resorcinolKey activeEffect: MediumMight help reduce hyperpigmentation in skin and help neutralize free radicals~0.15–0.3%
ChrysinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.15–0.3%
Albizia julibrissin bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing~1.1–1.3%
Resveratrol dimethyl etherEffect: LowA more stable derivative of anti-oxidant resveratrol. There is not enough research to confirm its efficacy in skin~0.15–0.3%
N-hydroxysuccinimideEffect: LowIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating~0.15–0.25%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.25–0.45%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Glutathione, Chrysin + 9 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (glutathione) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - chrysin also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
ChrysinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.15–0.3%
Ellagic acidEffect: LowCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.15–0.3%
Rubus chamaemorus seed oilEffect: LowA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Albizia julibrissin bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing~1.1–1.3%
Lonicera caprifolium flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.1–0.25%
Lonicera japonica flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.15–0.25%
Resveratrol dimethyl etherEffect: LowA more stable derivative of anti-oxidant resveratrol. There is not enough research to confirm its efficacy in skin~0.15–0.3%
Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~2.3–2.8%
ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.15–0.3%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Withania somnifera root extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Albizia julibrissin bark extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingHigh~1.1–1.3%est.
Rubus chamaemorus seed oilA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Withania somnifera root extract—High~0.2–0.4%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Phenylethyl resorcinolMight help reduce hyperpigmentation in skin and help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
N-hydroxysuccinimideIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4–4.9%est.
Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
GalactoarabinanHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharideHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is sometimes referred to as "natural" hyaluronic acid (even though hyaluronic acid is not unnatural and is present in human skin)Medium~0.3–0.5%est.
Ellagic acidCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
ChrysinMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Acetyl tributyl citrateUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.2–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4–4.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Propanediol~2.9–3.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Argania spinosa kernel oil~2.3–2.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil
Sodium acrylates copolymer~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract~1.5–1.9%
Formula
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Albizia julibrissin bark extract~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

More about Albizia julibrissin bark extract
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Galactoarabinan~0.65–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Galactoarabinan
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.5–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3~0.4–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3
Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide~0.3–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is sometimes referred to as "natural" hyaluronic acid (even though hyaluronic acid is not unnatural and is present in human skin)

More about Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide
Oxycoccus palustris seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Rubus chamaemorus seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating

More about Rubus chamaemorus seed oil
Niacinamide~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Withania somnifera root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Retinal~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Ellagic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone

More about Ellagic acid
Phenylethyl resorcinol~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

Might help reduce hyperpigmentation in skin and help neutralize free radicals

More about Phenylethyl resorcinol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Resveratrol dimethyl ether~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A more stable derivative of anti-oxidant resveratrol. There is not enough research to confirm its efficacy in skin

More about Resveratrol dimethyl ether
Phenyl t-butylnitrone~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Ergothioneine~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine
Glutathione~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingEvens skin tone

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione
Mirabilis jalapa flower/leaf/stem extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
N-hydroxysuccinimide~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating

More about N-hydroxysuccinimide
Chrysin~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin

More about Chrysin
Glutamylamidoethyl imidazole~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

A peptide that is claimed to be helpful in supporting vitamin D production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Glutamylamidoethyl imidazole
Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract
Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Pentylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cyclodextrin~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Steareth-20~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20
Gluconolactone~0.1–0.2%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric acid~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Dextran~0.1–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran
Acetyl tributyl citrate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Acetyl tributyl citrate
Calcium gluconate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Limonene~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Dimethyl isosorbide, Galactoarabinan, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide, Oxycoccus palustris seed oil, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Niacinamide, Withania somnifera root extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract, Retinal, Ellagic acid, Phenylethyl resorcinol, Sodium hyaluronate, Resveratrol dimethyl ether, Phenyl t-butylnitrone, Ergothioneine, Glutathione, Mirabilis jalapa flower/leaf/stem extract, N-hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Glutamylamidoethyl imidazole, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Lavandula hybrida oil, Pentylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl glycol, Steareth-20, Gluconolactone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric acid, Xanthan gum, Dextran, Acetyl tributyl citrate, Calcium gluconate, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Allies of SkinRetinal & Peptides Repair Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTAbibYesStyle Exclusive PDRN Volume Fill-it Booster Crème 2.5 Tube Mini 5pcs Bundle SetBe MinimalistVitamin K +Retinal Eye CreamSpectacle SkincarePerformance Crème
Match—85%80%80%
Price$53.59$37.53−$16.06—$100.47+$46.88
Shared key ingredients—6 of 168 of 167 of 16
Key difference—Copper Tripeptide-1Dipeptide-2Gluconolactone
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Allies of Skin - Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Dextran, galactoarabinan, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, argania spinosa kernel oil and caprylic/capric triglyceride in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.20% - 0.35%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.45% - 0.70%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.50% - 0.80% and caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 0.40% - 0.60%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: niacinamide, gluconolactone and ergothioneine

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 65.40$ up to 109.00$ in the United States, from 128.62CA$ up to 196.00CA$ in Canada, from 39.99£ up to 112.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 850.00HK$ in Hong Kong.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 40 studies and safety reviews.

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Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream
Allies of SkinRetinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.