Esculin

ASCORBIC ACID

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF

Green tea leaf powder that might contain antioxidants to help neutralize free radicals in skin

MALPIGHIA EMARGINATA SEED EXTRACT

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin but is typically not used in a high enough concentration

PALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACT

An extract from grape plant that can contain a potent antioxidant resveratrol. The manufacturer (Caudalie) claims that this particular extract is effective against hyperpigmentation. This effect would be explained by the resveratrol content. However, there is no independent research confirming the manufacturer's claim beside the potential for anti-oxidant activity

RETINOL

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

SILYBUM MARIANUM EXTRACT

Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone

ETHYLBISIMINOMETHYLGUAIACOL MANGANESE CHLORIDE

A potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applications

TOCOPHEROL

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

ERGOTHIONEINE

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skin

AMINOPROPYL ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)

QUERCETIN

Might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective.

UBIQUINONE

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

OLEANOLIC ACID

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

URSOLIC ACID

PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA FRUIT EXTRACT

A plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations

FERULIC ACID

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

TETRAHYDROBISDEMETHOXYDIFERULOYLMETHANE

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

TETRAHYDRODEMETHOXYDIFERULOYLMETHANE

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

TETRAHYDRODIFERULOYLMETHANE

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATE

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

CASTANEA SATIVA SEED EXTRACT

A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals

CREATINE

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

VITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACT

A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation

GLUCONOLACTONE

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

ILEX PARAGUARIENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritating

PUNICA GRANATUM EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective

CHRYSIN

Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin

SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

SQUALENE

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

LACTOBIONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

DECARBOXY CARNOSINE HCL

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

GINKGO BILOBA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

TOCOTRIENOLS

A type of vitamin E that is more powerful in neutralizing free radicals compared to its other forms

CHITOSAN

Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

CARNOSINE

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

VACCINIUM MACROCARPON SEED OIL

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

LYCOPENE

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin combating sun damage. Adds a red color to the product

HYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINONE

An analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

LYCIUM BARBARUM FRUIT EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

RESVERATROL

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

GLUCONIC ACID

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

ASTAXANTHIN

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation

GALACTOMYCES FERMENT FILTRATE

A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores

EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

APHANIZOMENON FLOS-AQUAE EXTRACT

An extract from ablue-green algae. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to neutralize free radicals

3-GLYCERYL ASCORBATE

A moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration

3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS EXTRACT

Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin

RUBUS IDAEUS SEED OIL

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

MADECASSOSIDE

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

BAKUCHIOL

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

YEAST EXTRACT

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

HEXYLRESORCINOL

Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin

AZELAIC ACID

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

KOJIC ACID

Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating

RETINYL LINOLEATE

An ester of a retinoid and linoleic acid. Three steps removed from the bioactive form of retinoid, retinoic acid. Once converted to retinoic acid in skin, it can help reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, even out skin tone and reduce blemishes. The concentrations used in cosmetic products are often not high enough to have a positive effect in skin.

ARGININE PCA

An amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals in skin

THIOCTIC ACID

NARINGENIN

A flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals

ASIATICOSIDE

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

CAMELLIA SEED OIL

Oil from tea seeds. Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

HYDROXYDECYL UBIQUINOYL DIPALMITOYL GLYCERATE

Idebenone complex. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin

TOCOPHERYL LINOLEATE

A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient

PHLORETIN

An antioxidant. Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

CAMELLIA SINENSIS EXTRACT

Tea extract. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

CAMELLIA OLEIFERA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics

CEREUS GRANDIFLORUS FLOWER EXTRACT

A cactus extract that can help neutralize free radicals because it contains a chemical compound called betacyanins and flavonolglycosides. Can help make the surface of the skin dryer helping make pores look smaller for a very short period of time. The concentrations usually used in cosmetics are too small to have any effect

FICUS CARICA FRUIT EXTRACT

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

HOVENIA DULCIS FRUIT EXTRACT

A plant extract

MALPIGHIA PUNICIFOLIA FRUIT EXTRACT

A fruit extract that might help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATYL GLUCOSIDE

A synthetic version of green tea polyphenol that helps neutralize free radicals in skin

DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOL

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

EMBLICA OFFICINALIS FRUIT EXTRACT

A plant extract that might be helping in neutralizing free radicals in skin. It could help reduce hyperpigmentation. There is some research to confirm its effectiveness in skin

SACCHAROMYCES/BARLEY SEED FERMENT FILTRATE

A yeast extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and can help attract water to its upper layers

SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

CAMELLIA SINENSIS CATECHINS

A group of chemical compounds extracted from Green Tea. They can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Might be able to help repair sun damage and clam down inflammation in skin

GLUTATHIONE

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

TARTARIC ACID

An AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levels

PYRIDOXINE

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking. It might be irritating

ISOQUERCITRIN

Antioxidant that might help reduce free radicals and reduce melanin production, but more research is needed to understand if it is effective in skin

CYSTEINE

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation

ASCORBIC ACID POLYPEPTIDE

A type of peptide. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

POLYGONUM AVICULARE EXTRACT

A plant extract that contains a flavanol Juglanin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce inflammation

IMPERATA CYLINDRICA ROOT EXTRACT

A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

CRYPTOMERIA JAPONICA LEAF EXTRACT

A plant extract that might have antioxidant effect in skin

ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

CAMELLIA JAPONICA FLOWER EXTRACT

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

Tretinoin

Bioavailable form of Vitamin A that is the most effective known topical ingredients for reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness, treating acne, as well as hyperpigmentation. It is not available over-the counter in many countries, including US and UK

PENTAPEPTIDE-34 TRIFLUOROACETATE

A type of peptide that works as a great moisturizer. It might also have some anti-aging effect and help neutralize free radicals in skin

ACETYL ZINGERONE

Helps neutralize free radicals

ARBUTIN

Beta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutin

ACETYL TYROSINAMIDE

An amino acid derivative. A manufacturer's study shows that it can help somewhat reduce wrinkles when used in combination with a low concentration of glycolic acid. No independent human in-vivo studies of this compound are available

SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS EXTRACT

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare typically too low. Can be used for its fragrant properties

GARDENIA JASMINOIDES MERISTEM CELL CULTURE

A stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

EPIGALLOCATECHIN GALLATE

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

CORNUS OFFICINALIS FRUIT EXTRACT

A plant extract that contains anti-oxidants. It might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used to help preserve the product formulation