Effectiveness
74 /100Irritancy
HIGHIngredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
ascorbic acid | HIGH | ||
hydroxypinacolone retinoate | HIGH | ||
retinol | HIGH |
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
retinol | HIGH | ||
hydroxypinacolone retinoate | HIGH | ||
ascorbic acid | HIGH |
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
squalane | HIGH | ||
shea butter ethyl esters | HIGH | ||
salvia hispanica seed oil | HIGH |
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
bakuchiol | HIGH | ||
tocopherol |
LOW
| ||
stearyl glycyrrhetinate |
LOW
|
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
retinol | HIGH | ||
bakuchiol | HIGH | ||
ascorbic acid | HIGH |
Ingredient | Irritancy | Skin benefit |
---|---|---|
caprylic/capric triglyceride | ||
isopropyl palmitate | ||
retinol |
Pos | Ingredient Name | Description |
---|---|---|
1 | caprylic/capric triglyceride | A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin |
2 | shea butter ethyl esters | Helps soften the upper layer of the skin |
3 | isopropyl palmitate | Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency |
4 | squalane | An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling. |
5 | myristyl nicotinate | |
6 | retinol | Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating |
7 | salvia hispanica seed oil | Chia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier |
8 | oryza sativa (rice) bran extract | Used to thicken the product consistency |
9 | schisandra chinensis fruit extract | A berry extract that might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin |
10 | helianthus annuus (sunflower) extract | |
11 | rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract | Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin. Is a likely irritant |
12 | haematococcus pluvialis extract | Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin |
13 | aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) bark extract | |
14 | hydroxypinacolone retinoate | A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada. |
15 | ascorbic acid | One of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty pentrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation |
16 | tocopherol | Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself |
17 | bakuchiol | A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. Studies confirm that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. It is less irritating than retinol |
18 | polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate | Helps oil and water mix together |
19 | stearyl glycyrrhetinate | A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation |
20 | dimethyl isosorbide | Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin |
21 | fragrance (parfum | An aromatic blend of unspecified irritating ingredients |
22 | citric acid | Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH |
23 | bht | A preservative |
24 | benzyl benzoate | Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating |
25 | limonene | A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat |
26 | linalool | A fragrance. Can be irritating |
27 | citral | A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant |
28 | citronellol | A fragrance. Can be irritating |