Sesderma SESRETINAL Mature Skin Crema Gel

Sesderma SESRETINAL Mature Skin Crema Gel

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“improves skin firmness and elasticity, increases epidermal turnover and helps reduce hyperpigmentation.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, retinol, bakuchiol, glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.5–0.8%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.75–1.15%
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.85%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.7–1.05%
Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.6–0.9%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.55–0.8%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.7–1.05%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.5–0.7%
Moisturizing
21 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“improves skin firmness and elasticity, increases epidermal turnover and helps reduce hyperpigmentation.”
Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glucosamine hcl, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, elaeis guineensis oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, paraffinum liquidum

Sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1–1.2%
DimethiconeKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.9–2.4%
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.85%
GlycerinKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
Glucosamine hclKey activeEffect: HighMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.6–0.9%
Paraffinum liquidumHeroEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~2.9–3.5%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.7–1.05%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Arachidyl alcoholEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~0.6–0.9%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.5–0.7%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.6–0.9%
Glyceryl stearateEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.6–0.95%
Isodecyl neopentanoateEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.~4.8–5.9%
Behenyl alcoholEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.65–0.95%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.55–0.8%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: HighA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.7–1.05%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.45–0.7%
Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.6–0.9%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%
Evens skin tone
10 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“improves skin firmness and elasticity, increases epidermal turnover and helps reduce hyperpigmentation.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal, retinol.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol, glycolic acid, mandelic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glucosamine hcl, glycyrrhetinic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.5–0.8%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.7–1.05%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.75–1.15%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Glucosamine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.6–0.9%
Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.65–1%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.55–0.8%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.45–0.7%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.7–1.05%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, mandelic acid, retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.7–1.05%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.45–0.7%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.55–0.8%
Sea saltEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration~0.55–0.85%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol, glycyrrhetinic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - lycium barbarum fruit extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.5–0.8%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.65–1%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.7–1.05%
Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.6–0.9%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.55–0.8%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%
Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: Low, below effective dosePlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.6–0.9%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.5–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid, mandelic acid

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.5–0.8%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.75–1.15%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: MediumHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.7–1.05%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.55–0.8%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.7–1.05%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Alcohol, Retinal + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~1.4–1.7%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.75–1.15%est.
NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.65–0.95%est.
Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.9%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~2.4–2.9%est.
Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~2.2–2.7%est.
Lycium barbarum fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.65–1%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.6–0.85%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Isoceteth-10Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.5–0.7%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~2.4–2.9%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.6–0.9%est.
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.5–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

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Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Isodecyl neopentanoate~4.8–5.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.

More about Isodecyl neopentanoate
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~3.5–4.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Paraffinum liquidum~2.9–3.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Isostearyl isostearate~2.4–2.9%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate
Ceteth-20~2.2–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20
Dimethicone~1.9–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Titanium dioxide~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Alcohol~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Zinc chloride~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Zinc chloride
Sodium hyaluronate~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Retinal~0.75–1.15%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypedtide-7~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Niacin~0.7–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin
Mandelic acid~0.7–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid
Lycium barbarum fruit extract~0.7–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Lycium barbarum fruit extract
Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.65–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid
Glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Glucosamine hcl~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.

More about Glucosamine hcl
Cooper, sulfate
Not recognized
Bidens pilosa extract~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Bakuchiol~0.5–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypeptide-15 hexapeptide-40~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypeptide-15 hexapeptide-40
Nicotiana benthamiana
Not recognized
Hexapeptide-47~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hexapeptide-47
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1~0.55–0.85%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1
Gluconolactone~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Lecithin~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Glyceryl stearate~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Arachidyl alcohol~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol
Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.6–0.9%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract
Dimethicone/bis-isobutyl ppg-20 crosspolymer~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/bis-isobutyl ppg-20 crosspolymer
Behenyl alcohol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Polysilicone-11~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Xanthan gum~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Arachidyl glucoside~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside
Polysorbate 20~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Disodium edta~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium cholate~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium cholate
Triethanolamine~0.6–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Sea salt~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Silica~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Isoceteth-10~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Isoceteth-10
Tocopherol~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Dipotassium phosphate~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH of the product

More about Dipotassium phosphate
Sodium hydroxide~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Glyceryl oleate~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate
Tromethamine~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Citric acid~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Hydrochloric acid~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Potassium phosphate~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Retinol~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Palmitate
Not recognized
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.5–0.8%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Lactic acid~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Parfum~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Paraffinum liquidum, Isostearyl isostearate, Ceteth-20, Dimethicone, Titanium dioxide, Alcohol, Zinc chloride, Sodium hyaluronate, Retinal, Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypedtide-7, Niacin, Mandelic acid, Lycium barbarum fruit extract, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Glycolic acid, Glucosamine hcl, Unknown, Bidens pilosa extract, Bakuchiol, Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypeptide-15 hexapeptide-40, Unknown, Hexapeptide-47, Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, Gluconolactone, Lecithin, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Glyceryl stearate, Arachidyl alcohol, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Dimethicone/bis-isobutyl ppg-20 crosspolymer, Behenyl alcohol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Xanthan gum, Tocopheryl acetate, Arachidyl glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Disodium edta, Sodium cholate, Triethanolamine, Sea salt, Silica, Isoceteth-10, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Dipotassium phosphate, Sodium hydroxide, Glyceryl oleate, Tromethamine, Citric acid, Hydrochloric acid, Potassium phosphate, Retinol, Unknown, Elaeis guineensis oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Lactic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Parfum

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Price—$71.39$15.99$19.50
Shared key ingredients—3 of 206 of 203 of 20
Key difference—Salicylic AcidLinoleic AcidPanthenol
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 44 studies and safety reviews.

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Sesderma SESRETINAL Mature Skin Crema Gel
SesdermaSESRETINAL Mature Skin Crema Gel

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