Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser ESPA

Name: ESPA - Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser
Brand: ESPA

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Key promises

Anti-aging, Moisturizing

Effectiveness

77 /100

Irritancy

HIGH

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SkincareRX

Starting at $69.00

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In stock 2/23/2021

Starting at $69.00

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In stock 2/22/2021

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What's in this jar?

Can work for

Anti-aging
Moisturizing

Promises, but can't deliver

All promises fulfilled!

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promise

What does the product description say?

"South African Resurrection Plant revives dehydrated skin for a youthful glow, Navarra Asparagus Extract targets signs of premature ageing, while Yeast Bioferment revitalises, for visibly radiant, beautiful skin."

From: Espa UK

WIMJ FORMULA ANALYSIS

It can get the job done. Best in class ingredients detected

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
gluconolactone	HIGH
ascorbic acid	HIGH
retinyl palmitate	MEDIUM

Pos	Ingredient Name	Description
1	aqua (water	Plain old water
2	coconut alkanes	An emollient that helps soften the skin
3	polyglyceryl-6 distearate	Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
4	helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsaponifiables	A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
5	polyglyceryl-2 stearate	Helps water and oil mix together
6	cetyl stearate
7	xylitylglucoside	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
8	pectin
9	inulin	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking
10	coco-caprylate/caprate	Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
11	plukenetia volubilis seed oil	A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid
12	propanediol	Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
13	ethylhexyl palmitate	An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
14	caprylic/capric triglyceride	A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
15	glyceryl stearate	An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
16	anhydroxylitol	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function
17	cetyl alcohol	A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
18	phenoxyethanol	A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
19	stearyl alcohol	An emollient that helps soften the skin
20	glycerin	One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
21	isostearyl isostearate
22	potassium cetyl phosphate	Helps oil and water mix together
23	jojoba esters	An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
24	helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil	A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
25	limonene	A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
26	citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil	An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
27	sclerotium gum	Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions
28	xylitol	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
29	alpha-glucan oligosaccharide	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
30	polyglyceryl-3 beeswax	Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
31	benzoic acid	A preservative
32	citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) flower oil	Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
33	citrus aurantium bergamia (bergamot) fruit oil	A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity
34	citrus nobilis (mandarin orange) peel oil	A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin
35	fragrance* (parfum	An aromatic blend of unspecified irritating ingredients
36	sodium hydroxide	Used to adjust the product's pH
37	dehydroacetic acid	A preservative
38	glucose	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
39	alaria esculenta extract	Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
40	lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower extract	A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
41	linalool	A fragrance. Can be irritating
42	rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract	Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin. Is a likely irritant
43	asparagus officinalis stem extract
44	myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf/stem extract
45	ethylhexylglycerin	A preservative
46	silica dimethyl silylate	Used to create a thicker product consistency
47	lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract	A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
48	sorbitol	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
49	hydrolyzed yeast protein
50	stearic acid	Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
51	sodium benzoate	A preservative
52	butylene glycol	Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
53	lactic acid	An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)
54	lecithin	Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
55	caprylyl glycol	Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
56	ascorbic acid	One of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty pentrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation
57	calcium gluconate	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product
58	citric acid	Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
59	gluconolactone	A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting inimporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
60	potassium sorbate	A preservative
61	geraniol	A fragrance. Can be irritating
62	jasminum officinale (jasmine) flower extract	Fragrance. Can be irritating
63	rosa damascena flower oil	Contains essential oil. Can be irritating
64	citronellol	A fragrance. Can be irritating
65	sodium hyaluronate	One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
66	xanthan gum	Used to create a thicker product consistency
67	tocopheryl acetate	A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
68	citral	A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant
69	hexylene glycol	Helps create a more spreadable product texture
70	tocopherol	Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
71	glyceryl linoleate
72	glyceryl linolenate	Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
73	disodium edta	Stabilizes the product formulation
74	sodium ascorbyl phosphate	A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
75	retinyl palmitate	Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
76	glyceryl caprylate	An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
77	oleic acid	Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness
78	iron oxides	A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating
79	. *100% natural	The ingredient is not recognized
80	fragrance	An aromatic blend of unspecified irritating ingredients

maria

Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser ESPA

Key promises

SHOP NOW

What's in this jar?

Can work for

Promises, but can't deliver

promise

WIMJ FORMULA ANALYSIS

promise

WIMJ FORMULA ANALYSIS

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