Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream

Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
โ€œUse moning and night to brighten, firm and reduce the appearance of fine lines and help skin defend itself from oxidative stress.โ€
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can โ€œeraseโ€ wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4โ€“1.7%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: MediumA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.35โ€“0.6%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5โ€“0.8%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1โ€“1.2%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.3โ€“0.5%
Moisturizing
22 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
โ€œOther key ingredients include Vitamin C Complex for brighter, firmer, more radiant skin, Lactic Acid to accelerate cell tunover, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract to help retun skin to a calm state after experiencing oxidative stress, and Salvia Hispanica (Chia Seed) Oil to hydrate and help quench free radicals.โ€
Source: Feelunique

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called โ€œhumectantsโ€:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they โ€œpull inโ€ the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

This product also contains ingredients called โ€œocclusivesโ€. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5

SqualaneKey activeยท Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~5.6โ€“6.8%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5โ€“0.8%
Sodium pcaKey activeยท HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.2โ€“0.35%
Ceramide 3Heroยท EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.75โ€“1.1%
XylitylglucosideKey activeยท HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~1.5โ€“1.9%
AnhydroxylitolKey activeยท HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.3โ€“0.5%
Cetyl dimethiconeKey activeยท EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice, light product texture~0.3โ€“0.55%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey activeยท Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.3โ€“2.8%
DimethiconeKey activeยท Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3โ€“0.6%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateKey activeยท HumectantEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~1.2โ€“1.4%
Ethylhexyl hydroxystearateKey activeยท Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it~0.35โ€“0.6%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: HighA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.35โ€“0.6%
GlycerinKey activeยท HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5โ€“4.3%
GlucoseKey activeยท HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.45โ€“0.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey activeยท EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3โ€“0.6%
Cetyl palmitateKey activeยท EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~0.5โ€“0.75%
Peg-8ยท HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.25โ€“0.5%
Glyceryl stearateยท EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3โ€“0.55%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoateยท EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.3โ€“0.55%
Butylene glycolยท HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3โ€“0.5%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.4โ€“0.6%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.3โ€“0.5%
Evens skin tone
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
โ€œKey features and benefits. . Gluten-free. . Vegan. . No artificial fragrances and colors. . Exfoliates and reduces unbalanced pigmentation. . Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. .โ€
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: dipotassium glycyrrhizate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4โ€“1.7%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: LowA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~1.2โ€“1.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand ยท 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4โ€“1.7%
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.45โ€“0.7%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1โ€“1.2%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand ยท 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4โ€“1.7%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1โ€“1.2%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.3โ€“0.5%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand ยท 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4โ€“1.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Retinol, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil + 4 more โ€” patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~28โ€“34%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.45โ€“0.7%est.
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.3โ€“0.6%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2โ€“0.4%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25โ€“0.5%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25โ€“0.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.3โ€“2.8%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~1โ€“1.2%est.
C12-20 alkyl glucosideHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25โ€“0.5%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4โ€“0.65%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25โ€“0.45%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.3โ€“0.5%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.3โ€“0.55%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3โ€“0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.3โ€“0.5%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Retinol~28โ€“34%
Hero ยท Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidationExfoliationMattifyingAnti-blemish

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Water~12โ€“14%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Squalane~5.6โ€“6.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Glycerin~3.5โ€“4.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
C14-22 alcohols~2.7โ€“3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A non-drying alcohol that helps stabilize product formulations

More about C14-22 alcohols
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.3โ€“2.8%
Key activeIrritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Xylitylglucoside~1.5โ€“1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Retinol~1.4โ€“1.7%
Hero ยท Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationMattifyingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~1.2โ€“1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~1โ€“1.2%
Under-dosedIrritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Ceramide 3~0.75โ€“1.1%
Hero ยท Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide 3
Xylitol~0.55โ€“0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.5โ€“0.8%
Hero ยท Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Copper lysinate/prolinate~0.5โ€“0.7%
Formula
Glucose~0.45โ€“0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Cetyl palmitate~0.5โ€“0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.45โ€“0.7%
Irritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Methylglucoside phosphate~0.4โ€“0.6%
Formula
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate~0.35โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid

More about Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.3โ€“0.6%
Irritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Anhydroxylitol~0.3โ€“0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Magnesium chloride~0.3โ€“0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride
C12-20 alkyl glucoside~0.25โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about C12-20 alkyl glucoside
Polysorbate 20~0.3โ€“0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.4โ€“0.65%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Sodium hydroxide~0.25โ€“0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Aminomethyl propanol~0.25โ€“0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25โ€“0.45%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Linalool~0.2โ€“0.4%
Irritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.25โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.25โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Phenoxyethanol~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Buffer
Not recognized
Cream~0.3โ€“0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cream
Water~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.3โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate~0.35โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it

More about Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate
Butylene glycol~0.3โ€“0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~0.3โ€“0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Cetyl caprylate~0.3โ€“0.6%
Formula
Peg-8~0.3โ€“0.55%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Stearic acid~0.45โ€“0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Dimethicone~0.35โ€“0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetyl dimethicone~0.3โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice, light product texture

More about Cetyl dimethicone
Glyceryl stearate~0.35โ€“0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Lactamide mea~0.25โ€“0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lactamide mea
Peg-100 stearate~0.4โ€“0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Cetyl alcohol~0.35โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.3โ€“0.55%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Sodium pca~0.3โ€“0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Carbomer~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Disodium edta~0.3โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3โ€“0.55%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Aminomethyl propanol~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

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Ethanolamine~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ethanolamine
Phenoxyethanol~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Buffer
Not recognized
Cream~0.3โ€“0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cream
Water~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.3โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterialReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate~0.35โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it

More about Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate
Butylene glycol~0.3โ€“0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Cetyl caprylate~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Peg-8~0.25โ€“0.5%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Stearic acid~0.4โ€“0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Dimethicone~0.3โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetyl dimethicone~0.3โ€“0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice, light product texture

More about Cetyl dimethicone
Glyceryl stearate~0.3โ€“0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Lactamide mea~0.25โ€“0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lactamide mea
Peg-100 stearate~0.3โ€“0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Cetyl alcohol~0.3โ€“0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.25โ€“0.45%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Sodium pca~0.2โ€“0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Carbomer~0.15โ€“0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Disodium edta~0.15โ€“0.25%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15โ€“0.25%
Irritant ยท medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Aminomethyl propanol~0.15โ€“0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol
Ethanolamine~0.1โ€“0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ethanolamine
Phenoxyethanol~0.1โ€“0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Retinol, Water, Squalane, Glycerin, C14-22 alcohols, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Xylitylglucoside, Retinol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Ceramide 3, Xylitol, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Copper lysinate/prolinate, Glucose, Cetyl palmitate, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Methylglucoside phosphate, Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, Lavandula hybrida oil, Anhydroxylitol, Magnesium chloride, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Sodium hydroxide, Aminomethyl propanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol, Unknown, Cream, Water, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, Butylene glycol, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cetyl caprylate, Peg-8, Stearic acid, Dimethicone, Cetyl dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate, Lactamide mea, Peg-100 stearate, Cetyl alcohol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Sodium pca, Carbomer, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aminomethyl propanol, Ethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Unknown, Cream, Water, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, Butylene glycol, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cetyl caprylate, Peg-8, Stearic acid, Dimethicone, Cetyl dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate, Lactamide mea, Peg-100 stearate, Cetyl alcohol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Sodium pca, Carbomer, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aminomethyl propanol, Ethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermalogicaOvernight Retinol Repair with Buffer CreamYOUR PRODUCTBlissYouth Got This MoisturizerHydroPeptideTravel-Size Nimni CreamPaula's choiceClinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturiser
Matchโ€”83%77%74%
Price$112.37$27.76โˆ’$84.61$45.00โˆ’$67.37$46.40โˆ’$65.97
Shared key ingredientsโ€”7 of 157 of 156 of 15
Key differenceโ€”Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Linoleic AcidAscorbyl Glucoside
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcoholโ€”โ€”โ€”โ€”
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Product summary

"Dermalogica - Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (anhydroxylitol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycerin, sodium pca and xylitylglucoside) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 3, cetyl dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and ethylhexyl hydroxystearate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 1.40% - 1.70% and retinol 28.00% - 34.00%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide 3 0.75% - 1.10%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.50% - 0.80%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate in this product (1.20% - 1.40%) can also further help improve the skin barrier. It might be able to calm down inflammation and reduce sensitivity. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is an active compound from the licorice root.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: stearic acid, stearic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 157.11A$ in Australia and for 97.40ยฃ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

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Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream
DermalogicaOvernight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream

Affiliate links ยท As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.