PRODUCT REVIEW
Dr. Denese Hemp Super Serum
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Combination of several Powerful Peptides known to combat aging.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
1.1% -
1.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
0.5% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Helps promote skin barrier function and repair, smoothing of lines and wrinkles and improve tone and elasticity
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
2% -
3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Helps promote skin barrier function and repair, smoothing of lines and wrinkles and improve tone and elasticity
palmitoyl tripeptide-1
0.6% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
1.1% -
1.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Show more
Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-oxidation
melatonin
0.45% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare
hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
72%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tocopherol
1.2% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
dimethicone
22% -
33%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
cyclopentasiloxane
5.6% -
8.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
caprylyl methicone
4.5% -
6.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin
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Ingredient list view
Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl methicone, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Cannabis sativa seed oil, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Unknown, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Melatonin, Ceramide ng, Bisabolol, Zingiber officinale root extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Polysilicone-11, Ethoxydiglycol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Sorbitan laurate, C18-36 acid glycol ester, C18-36 acid triglyceride, Tribehenin, Peg-10 phytosterol, Dimethyl isosorbide
Sources
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) seed oil: Analytical and phytochemical characterization of unsaponifiable fraction
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) as a Resource for Green Cosmetics
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- [Melatonin in dermatology. Experimental and clinical aspects]
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research
- COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CROSSLINKED HYALURONIC ACID (HA) IN COMBINATION WITH A LOW-MOLECULAR HA AND/OR AN AGENT STIMULATING ENDOGENOUS HA SYNTHESIS
- Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology—Size does matter