PRODUCT REVIEW
Jetske Ultee Vitamin A Serum
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
- Moisturizing
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Can it cause trouble?
Appears in
2 routines
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Special, stable form of vitamin A Helps against skin aging and makes the skin smoother and egaler Also with pigmentation spots and clogged, enlarged pores With extra calming ingredients
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tocopherol
0.45% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
ascorbyl palmitate
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Special, stable form of vitamin A Helps against skin aging and makes the skin smoother and egaler Also with pigmentation spots and clogged, enlarged pores With extra calming ingredients
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
echium plantagineum seed oil
1.3% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin
helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
helianthus annuus seed oil
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
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Anti-oxidation
cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
tocopherol
0.45% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
ascorbyl palmitate
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isostearyl isostearate
7.6% -
11.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic
User reviews (0)
Similar products & dupes
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tocopherol
0.45% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isostearyl isostearate
7.6% -
11.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic
All ingredients
cyclopentasiloxane
23% -
35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
isostearyl isostearate
7.6% -
11.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic
octyldodecanol
4.8% -
7.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
Show more
Ingredient list view
Cyclopentasiloxane, Isostearyl isostearate, Octyldodecanol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Lecithin, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil
Sources
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin