PRODUCT REVIEW
OSKIA Retinoid Sleep Serum Level 1
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a fourth-generation retinoid that provides unrivalled anti-ageing benefits .
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ubiquinone
0.9% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
alaria esculenta extract
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
The formula increases cell turnover to promote a smoother, more radiant and even complexion.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a fourth-generation retinoid that provides unrivalled anti-ageing benefits .
helianthus annuus seed oil
0.3% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
ubiquinone
0.9% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
0.3% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
Anti-oxidation
ubiquinone
0.9% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
alaria esculenta extract
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
91/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
curcuma longa root extract
1.2% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
tocopherol
0.45% -
1.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Potential irritants
curcuma longa root extract
1.2% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
dimethyl isosorbide
5.9% -
8.8%
Irritation risk:
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
sorbitan isostearate
3.4% -
5.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
Show more
Ingredient list view
C13-15 alkane, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sorbitan isostearate, Cocoyl proline, Octyldodecanol, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Curcuma longa root extract, Alaria esculenta extract, Ubiquinone, 7-dehydrocholesterol, Tocopherol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Olus oil, Vegetable oil, Lecithin, Glycerin, Water, Sodium benzoate
Sources
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Vitamin D Regulation of Cathelicidin in the Skin: Toward a Renaissance of Vitamin D in Dermatology?
- Off-Label Uses of Topical Vitamin D in Dermatology: A Systematic Review
- The Rationale Behind Topical Vitamin D Analogs in the Treatment of Psoriasis
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries