PRODUCT REVIEW
Zelens Power A Retexturising and Renewing Serum
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What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Refines and smooths skin texture Reduces the appearance of visible signs of skin ageing Helps clear blemishes and skin imperfections Key Ingredients.
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ethyl linoleate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
The high-potency vitamin A concentrate is designed to minimise the look of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots and uneven skin tone.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
panthenyl triacetate
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
The high-potency vitamin A concentrate is designed to minimise the look of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots and uneven skin tone.
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ethyl linoleate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Refines and smooths skin texture.
glycerin
1.8% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
jojoba esters
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
helianthus annuus seed wax
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
daucus carota sativa root extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color
tocopherol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
benzyl alcohol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
0.9% -
1.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Similar products & dupes
| Zelens - Power A Retexturising and Renewing Serum |  Biopelle - Emepelle Night Cream |  The Ordinary - Advanced Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion |  Boost Lab - Retinol Night Renewal Serum |  The INKEY List CA - Retinol Serum |  BiRetix - Duo Gel |  Beauty Pie - Super Retinol High Dose Booster Treatment |  No Cosmetics - Retinol Serum renew today |  The Garden Of Wisdom - Granactive Retinoid 5% Serum |  SUNDAY RILEY - A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum |  Glowbiotics MD - Retinol Anti-Aging and Brightening Treatment | |
| Price | |||||||||||
| WIMJ similarity score |
70%
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67%
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65%
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63%
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61%
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60%
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59%
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58%
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55%
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54%
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| Key ingredients |
| Common:
Other:
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Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other:
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Other:
| Common:
Other:
| Common: Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tocopherol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
benzyl alcohol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
retinol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
0.9% -
1.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
caprylic/capric triglyceride
6.3% -
7.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
propanediol
4.2% -
5.2%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
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Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Bentonite, Glycerin, Squalane, Linoleic acid, Sweet almond oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, Cetearyl alcohol, Phospholipids, Benzyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Retinol, Panthenyl triacetate, Jojoba esters, Tocopherol, Ethyl linoleate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Retinyl linoleate, Salicyloyl phytosphingosine, Ipomoea batatas root extract, Cucurbita pepo fruit extract, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Solanum lycopersicum fruit extract, Brassica oleracea acephala leaf extract, Cucurbita maxima fruit extract, Linolenic acid, Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate, Polyglycerin-3, Xanthan gum, Sodium dehydroacetate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Oleyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate
Sources
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function
- Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Panthenyl Triacetate Transformation, Stimulation of Metabolic Pathways, and Wound-Healing Properties in the Human Skin
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Ethyl linoleate inhibits α-MSH-induced melanogenesis through Akt/GSK3β/β-catenin signal pathway
- Double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study of a lotion containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate in the treatment of acne vulgaris
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Metabolism of topical retinaldehyde and retinol by mouse skin in vivo: predominant formation of retinyl esters and identification of 14‐hydroxy‐4, 14‐retro‐retinol
- Auto-regulation of Retinoic Acid Biosynthesis through Regulation of Retinol Esterification in Human Keratinocytes
- Phytosphingosine Derivatives Ameliorate Skin Inflammation by Inhibiting NF-κB and JAK/STAT Signaling in Keratincoytes and Mice
- Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine: a novel agent for the repair of photoaged skin