PRODUCT REVIEW
Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
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Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Pores, Dryness, and Uneven Skin Tone
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
linoleic acid
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
This serum works to reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tocopherol
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Pores, Dryness, and Uneven Skin Tone
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Squalane, ceramide NP, and a super-lipid complex moisturise and help minimise the potential for irritation and dryness.
ceramide np
0.5% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
dimethicone
6.1% -
9.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
ethylhexyl hydroxystearate
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.35% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
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Comodogenic ingredients
laminaria ochroleuca extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tocopherol
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.35% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
laminaria ochroleuca extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
All ingredients
dimethicone
6.1% -
9.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
isononyl isononanoate
5.1% -
7.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
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Ingredient list view
C9-12 alkane, Dimethicone, Isononyl isononanoate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Trisiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, Ceramide np, Helianthus annuus seed extract, Hordeum vulgare extract, Cucumis sativus extract, Laminaria ochroleuca extract, Zingiber officinale root extract, Phytosteryl canola glycerides, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium pca, Squalane, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic acid, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Hydroxystearic acid, Triolein, Bisabolol, Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Mica, Phenoxyethanol
Sources
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Celiac Disease & Skin Care Products
- Preventive and Therapeutic Role of Functional Ingredients of Barley Grass for Chronic Diseases in Human Beings
- Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function
- Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation