What's In My Jar
Lancer Skincare Younger: Pure Youth Serum
Lancer Skincare

Lancer Skincare Younger: Pure Youth Serum

Efficacy93/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Glycolic acid + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This vibrant treatment dramatically resurfaces skin improving the appearance of tone and elasticity, while helping wrinkles look less numerous and less deep.”
Source: Niche Beauty

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.35–0.6%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.2–0.35%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Bakuchiol + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Lancer Skincare Younger: Pure Youth Serum dramatically reduces the appearance of sun damage, fine lines and other signs of ageing by activating the regeneration of collagen and new cells.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, bakuchiol, glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.35–0.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.4%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.2–0.35%
Magnesium aluminum silicateEffect: LowMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation~0.25–0.45%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Bakuchiol + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“By harnessing the skin’s own ability to create new, younger-looking skin, the serum improves skin tone and elasticity, lessens the number and depth of wrinkles and fine lines, reduces the appearance of sun damage, and significantly lessens other signs of ageing.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol, glycolic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.35–0.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.4%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.2–0.35%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.2–0.4%
Moisturizing
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetyl alcohol + 16 more
Works
What the product description says
“The inclusion of copper amino acids makes this youth serum a must in your collagen skincare routine, as it helps with firming and plumping skin towards looking visibly younger.”
Source: Niche Beauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharomyces lysate extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, chondrus crispus extract.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.2–1.4%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.65–1%
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.55–0.85%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.35–0.65%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.55%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.25–0.45%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.25–0.5%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Saccharomyces lysate extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can have some anti-inflammatory effect~0.2–0.4%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.2–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~5.7–6.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.2–2.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.2–0.35%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Bakuchiol, Vitis vinifera seed oil + 3 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.4%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.35%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.2–0.4%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Bakuchiol + 2 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.35–0.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.4%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.2–0.35%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Menthoxypropanediol
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~3–3.7%est.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.35–0.6%est.
MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~5.7–6.9%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.2–0.4%est.
Hydrolyzed chondrus crispus extract—3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Advanced Retinol Serum
StackedSkincare Advanced Retinol Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10074% match
$29.99
Flawless Nightly Pro 5% Retinoid Serum
Dr Sam's Flawless Nightly Pro 5% Retinoid Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10073% match
$80.21
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~5.7–6.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Dimethyl isosorbide~4.3–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Glycolic acid~3–3.7%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Glyceryl stearate~2.2–2.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate
Sodium hydroxide~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.2–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Propanediol~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Cetyl alcohol~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Hdi/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a silky product texture and add volume to products

More about Hdi/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Glycerin~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Glycolic acid~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.35–0.6%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Bakuchiol~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Capryloyl pentapeptide-26~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Capryloyl pentapeptide-26
Bidens pilosa extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bidens pilosa extract
Saccharomyces lysate extract~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can have some anti-inflammatory effect

More about Saccharomyces lysate extract
Methyl glucoside phosphate proline lysine copper complex
Not recognized
Glycine soja extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycine soja extract
Tuber aestivum extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tuber aestivum extract
Orchis mascula extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Orchis mascula extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Bisabolol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Chondrus crispus extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Dimethicone~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Not recognized
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ppg-12/smdi copolymer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product finish

More about Ppg-12/smdi copolymer
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Hydrolyzed chondrus crispus extract~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Hydrolyzed chondrus crispus extract
Menthoxypropanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol
Vanillyl butyl ether~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vanillyl butyl ether
Magnesium aluminum silicate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Magnesium aluminum silicate
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Dimethyl isosorbide, Glycolic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, Sodium hydroxide, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Cetyl alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hdi/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycolic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Bakuchiol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Capryloyl pentapeptide-26, Bidens pilosa extract, Saccharomyces lysate extract, Unknown, Glycine soja extract, Tuber aestivum extract, Orchis mascula extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Chondrus crispus extract, Elaeis guineensis oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Dimethicone, Unknown, Tocopheryl acetate, Ppg-12/smdi copolymer, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Hydrolyzed chondrus crispus extract, Menthoxypropanediol, Vanillyl butyl ether, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Sodium dehydroacetate, Citric acid, Potassium sorbate, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Lancer SkincareYounger: Pure Youth SerumYOUR PRODUCTStackedSkincareAdvanced Retinol SerumDr Sam'sFlawless Nightly Pro 5% Retinoid SerumImage skincareAGELESS+ retinol treatment crème 1.2% retinol complex
Match—74%73%71%
Price—$29.99$80.21$60.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 144 of 147 of 14
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 25 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
  2. 2
    Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
  5. 5
    Public Report: 2-Butenedioic acid (2E)-, di-C12-15-alkyl esters (INCI Name: Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate)nicnas.gov.au
  6. 6
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Lancer Skincare Younger: Pure Youth Serum
Lancer SkincareYounger: Pure Youth Serum
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