PRODUCT REVIEW
DermExcel Collagen Serum
Appears in
3 routines
Added by Trinette
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Cheaper alternatives
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Expect a youthful, radiant, and healthier complexion.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
10%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
26% -
40%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This formulation contains Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, one of the most stable and potent forms of Vitamin C. It has the ability to increase collagen levels, reduce melanin production, brighten skin, and repair the effects of UV exposure and other environmental damage.
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
26% -
40%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
niacinamide
10%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
This hyper-strength rehydration serum also contains Vitamin F essential fatty acids, Vitamin B3, and low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid to ensure multi-depth serum penetration and hydration.
soluble collagen
2.2% -
3.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
0.5% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
10%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Anti-oxidation
tocopherol
6.7% -
10.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
26% -
40%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
alcohol
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
Similar products & dupes
| DermExcel - Collagen Serum |  Beauty of Joseon - Revive Serum Sponsored |  Dr Sam's - Flawless Nightly Serum |  skinmade - Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin C serum |  Bloomeffects - Black Tulip Overnight Retinoid Serum |  Tree To Tub - Ginseng Green Tea Anti-Aging Retinol Night Serum |  Kate Ryan Skincare - Vitamin C Daytime Repair Serum |  Biopelle - KNR Serum |  Glowbiotics MD - Retinol Anti-Aging and Brightening Treatment |  Hand MD - Daily Dual Repair |  Youth To The People - Superfood Firm + Brighten Serum |  MUTHA - No.1 Serum | |
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
10%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
tocopherol
6.7% -
10.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
alcohol
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
26% -
40%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
Show more
Ingredient list view
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Hyaluronic acid, Unknown, Tocopherol, Water, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Honey extract, Soluble collagen, Hydrolyzed elastin, Sodium pca, Serine, Glycogen, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Lecithin, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Unknown, Ppg-20, Unknown, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Sodium phytate, Water, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sources
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans
- Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215