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Dermalogica Nightly Lip Treatment
Dermalogica

Dermalogica Nightly Lip Treatment

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Sesamum indicum seed extract, Sodium pca + 10 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“This rich overnight formula firms, hydrates and restores skin on and around the lips.”
Source: Dermalogica

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Sesamum indicum seed extractKey activeEffect: HighPlant oil that due to its high content of linoleic acid can help support skin's barrier function improving its hydration~0.2–0.75%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.05–0.2%
Butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiablesKey activeEffect: HighA great moisturizing ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.35–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.6–2.4%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.8–8.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.1–1.7%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.4–2.1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.9%
Pyrus malus fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.8–1.25%
Aloe barbadensis extract· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–1%
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl propylmethylmethoxybenzofuranEffect: LowIt is a derivative of isoeugenol, an aromatic compound in clove essential oil. It is sold to cosmetic companies under the name Sym3D. The ingredient's manufacturer claims that it is able to plump lips and have an anti-aging effect. The evidence of effectiveness, however, is weak. The lab tests with skin models (not with real people) show that it, in theory, it can increase the number and size of fat cells underneath the skin and can work as an anti-oxidant. To impact the fat cells, the ingredient, however, needs to penetrate deep through the skin - and it is unlikely that it can do this. A clinical test with 44 female volunteers conducted by the manufacturer showed that twice daily application of this ingredient in 0.25% concentration on lips increased their volume by 6% in 28 days. It is unclear where the effect is coming from. It is possible that this visible effect appears because of the skin irritation~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%
Anti-aging
Butyrospermum parkii butter, Tocopherol
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“Anti-aging lip and perioral treatment smoothes the appearance of laugh and feather lines while you sleep.”
Source: Dermalogica

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.4–2.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Mentha piperita oil, Mentha viridis leaf oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Mentha viridis leaf oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl propylmethylmethoxybenzofuranIt is a derivative of isoeugenol, an aromatic compound in clove essential oil. It is sold to cosmetic companies under the name Sym3D. The ingredient's manufacturer claims that it is able to plump lips and have an anti-aging effect. The evidence of effectiveness, however, is weak. The lab tests with skin models (not with real people) show that it, in theory, it can increase the number and size of fat cells underneath the skin and can work as an anti-oxidant. To impact the fat cells, the ingredient, however, needs to penetrate deep through the skin - and it is unlikely that it can do this. A clinical test with 44 female volunteers conducted by the manufacturer showed that twice daily application of this ingredient in 0.25% concentration on lips increased their volume by 6% in 28 days. It is unclear where the effect is coming from. It is possible that this visible effect appears because of the skin irritationHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Lauryl peg-8 dimethiconeA type of silicone that helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~2.8–4.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.6–2.4%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.8–1.25%est.
Swertia chirata extractA plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.45–1%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.05–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.4–2.1%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiablesA great moisturizing ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals2/5~0.35–0.85%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dimethicone~5.8–8.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~4–5.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Lauryl peg-8 dimethicone~2.8–4.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

A type of silicone that helps water and oil mix together

More about Lauryl peg-8 dimethicone
Nylon 6/12~2.2–3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Nylon 6/12
Maltodextrin~1.8–2.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.6–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Glycerin~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.8–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Swertia chirata extract~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking

More about Swertia chirata extract
Aloe barbadensis extract~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiables~0.35–0.85%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturizing ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiables
Sesamum indicum seed extract~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil that due to its high content of linoleic acid can help support skin's barrier function improving its hydration

More about Sesamum indicum seed extract
Mentha piperita oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Mentha viridis leaf oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha viridis leaf oil
Tocopherol~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

It is a derivative of isoeugenol, an aromatic compound in clove essential oil. It is sold to cosmetic companies under the name Sym3D. The ingredient's manufacturer claims that it is able to plump lips and have an anti-aging effect. The evidence of effectiveness, however, is weak. The lab tests with skin models (not with real people) show that it, in theory, it can increase the number and size of fat cells underneath the skin and can work as an anti-oxidant. To impact the fat cells, the ingredient, however, needs to penetrate deep through the skin - and it is unlikely that it can do this. A clinical test with 44 female volunteers conducted by the manufacturer showed that twice daily application of this ingredient in 0.25% concentration on lips increased their volume by 6% in 28 days. It is unclear where the effect is coming from. It is possible that this visible effect appears because of the skin irritation

More about Hydroxymethoxyphenyl propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl acetate~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Sodium pca~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Lauryl peg-8 dimethicone, Nylon 6/12, Maltodextrin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Swertia chirata extract, Aloe barbadensis extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiables, Sesamum indicum seed extract, Mentha piperita oil, Mentha viridis leaf oil, Tocopherol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium pca, Phenoxyethanol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Antiviral activity of the Indian medicinal plant extract, Swertia chirata against herpes simplex viruses: A study by in-vitro and molecular approachijmm.org
  5. 5
    Therapeutic Swertia chirata - An Overviewsearch.proquest.com
  6. 6
    A Review of Swertia chirayita (Gentianaceae) as a Traditional Medicinal Plantncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dermalogica Nightly Lip Treatment
DermalogicaNightly Lip Treatment
Buy at Dermalogica$49.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Dermalogica$49.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.