PRODUCT REVIEW
Dermalogica dynamic skin recovery spf50 duo
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Sun protection
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
- Exfoliation
- Anti-blemish
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Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Sun protection
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.
octocrylene
7%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen
homosalate
5%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
This kit helps to Combat the appearance of skin aging Retexturize for smoother skin Provide long-lasting hydration and critical protection against UV light
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
1.6% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Our hero broad spectrum daily moisturizer with dynamic benefits that hydrates, smooths, and protects skin against UVA and UVB rays.
helianthus annuus extract
0.4% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
helianthus annuus seed oil
0.7% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
1.6% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Anti-blemish
retinol
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
beta-glucan
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Evens skin tone
retinol
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
glucosamine hcl
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
urea
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
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Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
carnosine
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Sun protection | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
pelargonium graveolens flower oil
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
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Comodogenic ingredients
laminaria digitata extract
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
laureth-23
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
gluconolactone
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-blemish
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
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Potential irritants
pelargonium graveolens flower oil
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
laminaria digitata extract
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
laureth-23
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
All ingredients
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.
homosalate
5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen
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Ingredient list view
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Octocrylene, Water, Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Propanediol, Polysorbate 80, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Aniba rosodora wood oil, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil, Cymbopogon martini oil, Cupressus sempervirens leaf oil, Citrus limon peel extract, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Tocopherol, Squalane, Caprylyl glycol, Carnosine, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Lecithin, Urea, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Bisabolol, Glucosamine hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, Gluconolactone, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Sorbitan isostearate, Decyl glucoside, Aminomethyl propanol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Phenethyl alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl benzoate, Citral, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Propanediol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Aniba rosodora wood oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Santalum album oil, Oryza sativa bran extract, Helianthus annuus extract, Cupressus sempervirens oil, Juniperus virginiana oil, Abies sibirica oil, Tocopherol, Beta-glucan, Caprylyl glycol, Bht, Ceramide np, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetyl palmitate, 1,2-hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Hydroxystearic acid, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan isostearate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 phosphate, Sodium hydroxide, Citric acid, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Sodium benzoate, Benzyl alcohol, Linalool
Sources
- Opinion on Homosalate - Scientific Committee on Consumer Products
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent model
- Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Fragrance Compound Geraniol Forms Contact Allergens on Air Exposure. Identification and Quantification of Oxidation Products and Effect on Skin Sensitization
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefits
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne
- The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoaging
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients
- Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention
- Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Light
- Ecofriendly surfactant is allergen of the year
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Phenethyl Alcohol
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses
- β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healing
- Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucan
- Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Review
- Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro study
- A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucans
- Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeast
- Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucans
- Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatus
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems