PRODUCT REVIEW
Alpha-H Mini Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum with 14% Glycolic Acid and Tripeptide-5
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
palmitoyl tripeptide-5
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
ferulic acid
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
Exfoliation
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
ubiquinone
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
dimethicone
1.5% -
2.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
glycerin
3.5% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Anti-oxidation
ferulic acid
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
ubiquinone
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
Promise | Can it deliver? |
---|---|
Anti-aging | |
Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract
0.1% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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WIMJ similarity score |
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
tocopherol
0.4% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract
0.1% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
glycolic acid
5.3% -
8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
glycerin
3.5% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycolic acid, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Dimethicone, Potassium hydroxide, Cetyl alcohol, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Methyl gluceth-20, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Phenoxyethanol, Ferulic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Ammonium glycyrrhizate, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Caprylyl glycol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sodium hyaluronate, Ubiquinone, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Tasmannia lanceolata leaf extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Sources
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Property
- Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin
- Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Application
- Anthocyanin-rich extract from Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx counteracts UVC-caused impairments in rats
- Hibiscus sabdariffa L. – A phytochemical and pharmacological review
- Liposome-containing Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx extract formulations with increased antioxidant activity, improved dermal penetration and reduced dermal toxicity
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care