What's In My Jar
THE ROUTE The Golden Rule - Next Generation Retinoid
THE ROUTE

THE ROUTE The Golden Rule - Next Generation Retinoid

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Glycolic acid + 3 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.2–0.35%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5–6.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin + 15 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, squalane.

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5–6.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%
Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.4%
Sodium acetylated hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid~0.95–1.15%
Magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%
Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighMushroom extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.35–0.6%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.25–0.45%
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanoneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.~0.35–0.6%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
LysolecithinEffect: LowLecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Glycolic acid, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Glycolic acid
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

In addition, this product contains glycolic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.2–0.35%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Glycolic acid
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.2–0.35%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Zingiber officinale root extract
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.2–0.35%est.
Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
GoldA colorant. Does not have any proven benefits in skinMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~5–6.1%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Younger: Pure Youth Serum
Lancer Skincare Younger: Pure Youth Serum
Higher efficacy · 93/10077% match
Mini Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum with 14% Glycolic Acid and Tripeptide-5
Alpha-H Mini Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum with 14% Glycolic Acid and Tripeptide-5
Higher efficacy · 100/10077% match
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butyrospermum parkii butter~5–6.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Propanediol~4.2–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dimethyl isosorbide~2.3–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Sodium hyaluronate~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~1.2–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid

More about Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
Magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucan~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucan
Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Mushroom extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract
Rheum rhaponticum root extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rheum rhaponticum root extract
Zingiber officinale root extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract
Solanum lycopersicum fruit extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Solanum lycopersicum fruit extract
Albatrellus confluens extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Albatrellus confluens extract
Orobanche rapum extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Orobanche rapum extract
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

An anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.

More about Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone
Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid
Bisabolol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Squalane~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Betaine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Silica~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Lysolecithin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Lecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lysolecithin
Sclerotium gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Pullulan~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylhydroxamic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Caprylhydroxamic acid
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Chloroacetic acid~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Chloroacetic acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Tin oxide~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Ci 77891~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ci 77891~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Iron oxides~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 77491~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Gold~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant. Does not have any proven benefits in skin

More about Gold
Ci 77480~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77480
Ingredient list view

Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Propanediol, Glycerin, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, Tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract, Rheum rhaponticum root extract, Zingiber officinale root extract, Solanum lycopersicum fruit extract, Albatrellus confluens extract, Orobanche rapum extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Bisabolol, Squalane, Betaine, Silica, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium gum, Ascorbyl palmitate, Glycolic acid, Pentylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Pullulan, Xanthan gum, Potassium sorbate, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Citric acid, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Tocopherol, Chloroacetic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium hydroxide, Tin oxide, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Iron oxides, Ci 77491, Gold, Ci 77480

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Ulta1.7 oz
$85.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
THE ROUTEThe Golden Rule - Next Generation RetinoidYOUR PRODUCTLancer SkincareYounger: Pure Youth SerumAlpha-HMini Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum with 14% Glycolic Acid and Tripeptide-5FOREOSUPERCHARGED Triple-Action Firming Serum
Match—77%77%70%
Price$85.00——$69.90−$15.10
Shared key ingredients—6 of 175 of 178 of 17
Key difference—BakuchiolFerulic AcidAdenosine
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"THE ROUTE - The Golden Rule - Next Generation Retinoid" is effective for: Anti-aging, Exfoliation, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • this product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.20% - 0.35%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
  • Humectants (sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer 1.20% - 1.40%, sodium hyaluronate 1.60% - 2.00%, sodium acetylated hyaluronate 0.95% - 1.15%, tremella fuciformis sporocarp extract 0.55% - 0.85%, glycerin 3.10% - 3.80% and betaine 0.25% - 0.45%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "THE ROUTE" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 85.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
  3. 3
    Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215 jaad.org
  4. 4
    Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheresscopus.com
  5. 5
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
THE ROUTE The Golden Rule - Next Generation Retinoid
THE ROUTEThe Golden Rule - Next Generation Retinoid
Buy at Ulta$85.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Ulta$85.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.