What's In My Jar
The INKEY List CA Winter Skin 101
The INKEY List CA

The INKEY List CA Winter Skin 101

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 5 more
Works well
What the product description says
“These four INKEY bestselling products target dehydrated and dull skin, fine lines, and marks.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.15–0.25%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Dark Spots, Fine Lines and Wrinkles, and Dryness Highlighted Ingredients. . RetiStar Stabilised Retinol 1% and Granactive Retinoid 0.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: albizia julibrissin bark extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Albizia julibrissin bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing~0.15–0.25%
Moisturizing
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 22 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Moisturizes and hydrates. . Multi Molecular Hyaluronic Acid 2%.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~28–34%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~5.8–7.1%
Avena sativa kernel oilKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~3.9–4.8%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.5%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.5%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.4%
Caprylic/capric glyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.45%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.2–0.4%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.2–0.4%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.15–0.25%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.25%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Avena sativa kernel flourEffect: LowA type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier~1.1–1.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~0.25–0.5%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Retinol, Caffeine + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
CaffeineEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes~0.15–0.25%
Albizia julibrissin bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing~0.15–0.25%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol
Medium risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Albizia julibrissin bark extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.01–0.05%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~5.8–7.1%est.
Alternatives
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~28–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Cetearyl alcohol~5.8–7.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides~3.5–4.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides
Avena sativa kernel oil~3.9–4.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel oil
Candelilla cera~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Candelilla cera
Silica~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Sorbitan stearate~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Tribehenin~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Peg-60 almond glycerides~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-60 almond glycerides
Avena sativa kernel flour~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier

More about Avena sativa kernel flour
Water~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Benzyl alcohol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Lecithin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
1,2-hexanediol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Biosaccharide gum-4~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Biosaccharide gum-4
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Water~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Glycerin~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Hyaluronic acid~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Carbomer~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Sodium lactate~0.15–0.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Polysorbate 20~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Water~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Propanediol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Jojoba esters~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Glyceryl dibehenate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glyceryl dibehenate
Albizia julibrissin bark extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

More about Albizia julibrissin bark extract
Squalane~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Caffeine~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Phospholipids~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Tribehenin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Glycine soja extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycine soja extract
Polysorbate 60~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Glyceryl behenate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Glycolipids~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycolipids
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycine soja extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycine soja extract
Sterol
Not recognized
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Carbomer~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Darutoside~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Darutoside
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Water~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Propanediol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Dimethicone~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Phospholipids~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Caprylic/capric glycerides~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Caprylic/capric glycerides
Squalane~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Glycine soja extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycine soja extract
Carbomer~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Sodium ascorbate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium ascorbate
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Polysorbate 60~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Glycolipids~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycolipids
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.05%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Retinol~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Glycine soja extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycine soja extract
Sterol
Not recognized
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Hyaluronic acid~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Polysorbate 20~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.25–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Cetearyl alcohol, Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, Avena sativa kernel oil, Candelilla cera, Silica, Sorbitan stearate, Tribehenin, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Avena sativa kernel flour, Water, Benzyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, 1,2-hexanediol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Biosaccharide gum-4, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Water, Propanediol, Sodium hyaluronate, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Hyaluronic acid, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Cetyl alcohol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Jojoba esters, Glyceryl dibehenate, Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Squalane, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Phospholipids, Tribehenin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan gum, Glycine soja extract, Polysorbate 60, Disodium edta, Glyceryl behenate, Glycolipids, Butylene glycol, Glycine soja extract, Unknown, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Hyaluronic acid, Carbomer, Darutoside, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Phenoxyethanol, Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Caprylyl glycol, Phospholipids, Caprylic/capric glycerides, Squalane, Dimethyl isosorbide, Glycine soja extract, Carbomer, Sodium ascorbate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium edta, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Glycine soja extract, Unknown, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Hyaluronic acid, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Phenoxyethanol

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The INKEY List CAWinter Skin 101YOUR PRODUCTBiopelleEmepelle Night CreamNakeryCollagen Cushion Pressed :SerumElizabeth GrantAdvanced Retinol Day Cream
Match—68%65%57%
Price——$33.39$44.95
Shared key ingredients—4 of 176 of 178 of 17
Key difference—NiacinamideAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterPanthenol
Irritancy Medium Low High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"The INKEY List CA - Winter Skin 101" is effective for: Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Exfoliation and Moisturizing

Ingredient callouts

  • this product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.15% - 0.30% and hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.01% - 0.05%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
  • Peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.40%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.40% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.20% - 0.40%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that theynare helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Humectants (hyaluronic acid 0.15% - 0.25%, glycerin 0.25% - 0.40%, hyaluronic acid 0.20% - 0.35%, glycerin 0.20% - 0.35%, sodium lactate 0.15% - 0.25%, hyaluronic acid 0.15% - 0.25%, glycerin 0.20% - 0.35% and sodium hyaluronate 0.15% - 0.30%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  4. 4
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  6. 6
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
The INKEY List CA Winter Skin 101
The INKEY List CAWinter Skin 101
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