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Endocare CELLPRO Cream
Endocare

Endocare CELLPRO Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
7 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“This ultra-rich and comforting formula provides skin with 24-hour nourishment while targeting the appearance of lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Face the future

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: vitis vinifera seed extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%
Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–4%
Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.5–0.75%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
17 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“This rich yet non-oily cream deeply moisturises the skin, making it perfect as a nourishing night cream for all skins or as a regular moisturiser for normal to dry skins.”
Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: fructose, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.6%
FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.3–1.6%
Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.5–0.75%
Lysine hclKey activeEffect: High~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–4%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.6–1.9%
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiablesKey activeEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~5–6.1%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Hydrogenated palm glycerides· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~1–1.3%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.5–0.7%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (dimethylmethoxy chromanol, retinol, vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.3–0.55%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%
Dimethylmethoxy chromanolKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.3–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–4%
Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.5–0.75%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.55%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.55%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.3–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.05%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~2.4–2.9%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2–2.4%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~1.8–2.1%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.3–1.6%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.2–4%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~2.4–2.9%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~5–6.1%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~1.8–2.1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cetearyl alcohol~5–6.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Snail egg extract~4.4–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Snail egg extract
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.2–4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Isostearyl isostearate~2.4–2.9%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate
Potassium cetyl phosphate~2–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Ceteareth-20~1.8–2.1%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Dimethicone~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.3–1.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Hydrogenated palm glycerides~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm glycerides
Cetearyl nonanoate~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cetearyl nonanoate
Glyceryl stearate~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Carapa guianensis seed oil~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Carapa guianensis seed oil
Propylene glycol~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Butylene glycol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Limnanthes alba seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Sodium cocoyl amino acids~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sodium cocoyl amino acids
Potassium olivoyl/lauroyl wheat amino acids~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Potassium olivoyl/lauroyl wheat amino acids
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydrolyzed umbilical extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed umbilical extract
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ceramide np~0.3–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.05%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Diaminopropionoyl tripeptide-33~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Diaminopropionoyl tripeptide-33
Retinol~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Magnolia officinalis bark extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Magnolia officinalis bark extract
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Cetearyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Lysine hcl~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Lysine hcl
Dimethylmethoxy chromanol~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tripeptide-9 citrulline~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tripeptide-9 citrulline
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Vitis vinifera seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAntibacterial

A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Vitis vinifera seed extract
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Maltodextrin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Fructose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose
Propanediol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimonium amylopectin/glycerin crosspolymer~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimonium amylopectin/glycerin crosspolymer
Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
1,2-hexanediol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Bha~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha
Pentylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
Parfum~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl alcohol, Snail egg extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Isostearyl isostearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Ceteareth-20, Dimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydrogenated palm glycerides, Cetearyl nonanoate, Glyceryl stearate, Carapa guianensis seed oil, Propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sodium cocoyl amino acids, Potassium olivoyl/lauroyl wheat amino acids, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed umbilical extract, Xanthan gum, Ceramide np, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Diaminopropionoyl tripeptide-33, Retinol, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, Caprylyl glycol, Cetearyl glucoside, Lysine hcl, Dimethylmethoxy chromanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tripeptide-9 citrulline, Lecithin, Vitis vinifera seed extract, Tocopherol, Maltodextrin, Fructose, Propanediol, Palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimonium amylopectin/glycerin crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated lecithin, 1,2-hexanediol, Bht, Bha, Pentylene glycol, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
EndocareCELLPRO CreamYOUR PRODUCTElizabeth ArdenCeramide Retinol + HPR Water CreamBiopelleEmepelle Night CreamCNP LaboratoryDerma Answer Tension Angle-fit Ampule
Match—83%80%76%
Price$65.66$51.60−$14.06$195.00+$129.34$14.62−$51.04
Shared key ingredients—7 of 123 of 127 of 12
Key difference—Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9NiacinamideCopper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High High Low High
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
Endocare CELLPRO Cream
EndocareCELLPRO Cream
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