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Mila Moursi Bio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal
Mila Moursi

Mila Moursi Bio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation
Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well
What the product description says
“This intensive bio-retinol treatment in a night-peeling concentrate helps restore youthful-looking skin.”
Source: Beautylish

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1–1.5%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.1–0.3%
Anti-aging
Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The third dimension boosts the synthesis of ceramide 3 (NP) while minimizing the look of photo-damaged skin, lines, and age spots.”
Source: Beautylish

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1–1.5%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.1–0.3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.45–1.05%
Evens skin tone
Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The third dimension boosts the synthesis of ceramide 3 (NP) while minimizing the look of photo-damaged skin, lines, and age spots.”
Source: Beautylish

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1–1.5%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.1–0.3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.45–1.05%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1–1.5%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.1–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Retinol, Tocopheryl acetate + 1 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1–1.5%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.55–1.3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.45–1.05%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone + 5 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cyclomethicone.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cyclomethicone.

CyclomethiconeKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer~4.2–6.2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.3–3.4%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.1–0.35%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~4.7–7.1%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~2.9–4.4%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.05–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol
Medium risk
We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.1–0.3%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~1–1.5%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.55–1.3%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Propyl gallateHelps preserve product formulations and can mask the smell of other ingredients in a productMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.1–0.35%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Youthbomb Double-retinol Action Skin Overhaul Serum
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Cheaper67% match
$99.42
WRINKLE + TEXTURE CONCENTRATE with 0.2% Encapsulated Retinol, Vitamin C & Azelaic Acid
MATTER OF FACT WRINKLE + TEXTURE CONCENTRATE with 0.2% Encapsulated Retinol, Vitamin C & Azelaic Acid
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Dimethicone~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Polysilicone-11~4.7–7.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Cyclomethicone~4.2–6.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer

More about Cyclomethicone
Dimethicone crosspolymer-3~3.7–5.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dimethicone crosspolymer-3
Isononyl isononanoate~2.9–4.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Dimethicone~2.3–3.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Dimethyl isosorbide~1.5–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.1–0.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Retinol~1–1.5%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MattifyingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Methyl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer~1–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methyl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer
Tocopheryl acetate~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbic acid~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Disodium edta~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Propyl gallate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve product formulations and can mask the smell of other ingredients in a product

More about Propyl gallate
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Bht~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Bidens pilosa extract~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bidens pilosa extract
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.1–0.35%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Ingredient list view

Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone crosspolymer-3, Isononyl isononanoate, Dimethicone, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Methyl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbic acid, Disodium edta, Propyl gallate, Polysorbate 20, Bht, Bidens pilosa extract, Elaeis guineensis oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil

Compare prices

Retailers ranked by price — lowest first.

Beautylish20 ml
$150.00
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Ulta0.676 oz
$150.00
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Amazon US
Price unavailable Out of stock
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Mila Moursi Advanced Skin Care
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Mila MoursiBio-Retinol Intensive Cellular RenewalYOUR PRODUCTDr. DeneseTriple Strength Peptide Super DropsBeauty PieYouthbomb Double-retinol Action Skin Overhaul SerumMATTER OF FACTWRINKLE + TEXTURE CONCENTRATE with 0.2% Encapsulated Retinol, Vitamin C & Azelaic Acid
Match—67%67%67%
Price$150.00$54.00−$96.00$99.42−$50.58$108.00−$42.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 63 of 63 of 6
Key difference—Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateNiacinamideAzelaic Acid
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop
  • matches yours
  • differs
  • cheaper

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Product summary

"Mila Moursi - Bio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal" is effective for: Anti-aging, Exfoliation, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this product it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.45% - 1.05%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 1.00% - 1.50% and hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.10% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
  • Humectants (cyclomethicone 4.20% - 6.20%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails from 108.80$ up to 145.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
  4. 4
    Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215 jaad.org
  5. 5
    Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheresscopus.com
  6. 6
    Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Mila Moursi Bio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal
Mila MoursiBio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal
Buy at Ulta$150.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Ulta$150.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.