PRODUCT REVIEW
Mila Moursi Bio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal
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Price as of 4/6/2023 2:12 GMT.
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Bio-Retinol Intensive Cellular Renewal This tri-dimensional retinol treatment delivers three retinols in an exclusive botanical-based bio-retinol complex.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
ascorbic acid
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
The third dimension boosts the synthesis of ceramide 3 (NP) while minimizing the look of photo-damaged skin, lines, and age spots.
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ascorbic acid
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
The first dimension refines the skin’s texture to accelerate cell renewal.
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-blemish
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
cyclomethicone
4.2% -
6.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer
dimethicone
22% -
33%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
elaeis guineensis oil
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Show more
Anti-oxidation
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
ascorbic acid
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
tocopheryl acetate
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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US Retailers
Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
All ingredients
dimethicone
22% -
33%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
polysilicone-11
4.7% -
7.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Moisturizing
A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel
cyclomethicone
4.2% -
6.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer
Show more
Ingredient list view
Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone crosspolymer-3, Isononyl isononanoate, Dimethicone, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Methyl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbic acid, Disodium edta, Propyl gallate, Polysorbate 20, Bht, Bidens pilosa extract, Elaeis guineensis oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Sources
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Genetic Architecture of Palm Oil Fatty Acid Composition in Cultivated Oil Palm (Elaeis guineensis Jacq.) Compared to Its Wild Relative E. oleifera (H.B.K) Cortés