Filorga

NCTF-Reverse

Name: Filorga - NCTF-Reverse
Brand: Filorga

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Based on the ingredients included, "Filorga - NCTF-Reverse" works well for moisturizing the skin.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Filorga - NCTF-Reverse" works well for moisturizing the skin. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol and prunus amygdalus dulcis oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
This moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.20% - 0.40%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate 0.25% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.25% - 0.40% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 92.92A$ in Australia, for 84.78$ in the United States and from 45.90£ up to 78.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Anti-aging

10 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: aspartic acid, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, folic acid, retinyl acetate, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%

NIACINAMIDERole: Under-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.15–0.3%

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%

DIPEPTIDE DIAMINOBUTYROYL BENZYLAMIDE DIACETATERole: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%

FOLIC ACIDRole: Key activeCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.15–0.25%

RETINYL ACETATERole: Key active~0.2–0.4%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

Moisturizing

27 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate

CALCIUM PANTOTHENATERole: Key activeHelps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity~0.25–0.45%

CYANOCOBALAMINRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.25–0.4%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.2–1.5%

GLUTAMIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

GLUTATHIONERole: Key activeA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–5.3%

GLYCINERole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.25–0.4%

HISTIDINERole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.4%

INOSITOLRole: Key active~0.25–0.45%

ISOLEUCINERole: Key activeAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.25–0.4%

LYSINE HCLRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

ORNITHINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

SODIUM LACTATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

SOLUBLE COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

TYROSINERole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

ZEA MAYS OILRole: Key activeA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

ALANINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.25–0.4%

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.4%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

Evens skin tone

4 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains glutathione. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

ALANINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.25–0.4%

Exfoliation

RETINOL at ~0.2–0.4% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–5.3%

Butyrospermum parkii butterRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%

Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.6–2%

DimethiconeRole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.2–1.5%

Titanium dioxideRole: Key activeWorks as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin~0.55–0.8%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.4%

GlucoseRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilRole: Key activeAn emollient that softens the skin~0.25–0.5%

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneRole: Key activeAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~0.45–0.7%

Sodium lactateRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

Zea mays oilRole: Key activeA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetateRole: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

InositolRole: Key active~0.25–0.45%

Calcium pantothenateRole: Key activeHelps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity~0.25–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Soluble collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Lysine hclRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.4%

AlanineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.25–0.4%

HistidineRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

ThreonineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

IsoleucineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.25–0.4%

TyrosineRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

GlycineRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.25–0.4%

SerineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

AdenosineRole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%

CyanocobalaminRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.25–0.4%

GlutathioneRole: Key activeA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Aspartic acidRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

OrnithineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Glutamic acidRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Retinyl acetateRole: Key active~0.2–0.4%

Folic acidRole: Key activeCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.15–0.25%

Anti-blemish

RETINOL at ~0.2–0.4% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–5.3%

Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.6–2%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.4%

GlucoseRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilRole: Key activeAn emollient that softens the skin~0.25–0.5%

Sodium lactateRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

InositolRole: Key active~0.25–0.45%

Calcium pantothenateRole: Key activeHelps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity~0.25–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Lysine hclRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.4%

AlanineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.25–0.4%

HistidineRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

ThreonineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

IsoleucineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.25–0.4%

TyrosineRole: Key active~0.25–0.4%

GlycineRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.25–0.4%

SerineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

CyanocobalaminRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.25–0.4%

Aspartic acidRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

OrnithineRole: Key activeAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Glutamic acidRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Retinyl acetateRole: Key active~0.2–0.4%

Folic acidRole: Key activeCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.15–0.25%

Irritancy

29 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Rosa moschata seed oil—High~0.25–0.5%est.

Retinyl acetate—High~0.2–0.4%est.

NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationLow~0.9–1.1%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.25–0.5%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeLow~0.16–0.32%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Low~0.45–0.7%est.

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonateUsed to stabilize the product formulationLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Haberlea rhodopensis leaf extractA plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skinLow~0.25–0.4%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.25–0.45%est.

T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.

GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Ci 17200A red colorantLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Pyridoxine hclMight help neutralize free radicals in skinLow~0.1–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

Butyrospermum parkii butter ~4.2–5.1% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~4.2–5.1%est.

Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier functionHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

NCTF-Reverse

Product summary

Ingredient callouts

Irritation risk

Price

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

What users say

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