Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Dr. Zenovia Skincare - Peptide + Ceramide Repairing Moisturizer" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr. Zenovia Skincare - Peptide + Ceramide Repairing Moisturizer ticks this box. Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 2, ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine and cholesterol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains Bakuchiol (1.20% - 1.40%). It is a plant extract that is has a similar effect to that of Retinoids but with less irritation. Bakuchiol can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation.
- Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.40% - 0.60%, ceramide np 0.50% - 0.70%, ceramide eop 0.45% - 0.65%, ceramide ap 0.40% - 0.65% and ceramide 2 0.25% - 0.45%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (tetrapeptide-21 0.20% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Fine Lines and Wrinkles, Dryness, and Loss of Firmness and Elasticity Formulation.
Source: Sephora
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains bakuchiol.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol, tetrapeptide-21.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol, resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This serum combines bio-equivalent ceramides, a powerful peptide complex, and Dr. Zenovia‘s exclusive REG-ulate360 Complex™ to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
Source: Sephora
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: bakuchiol
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Peptide + Ceramide Repairing Moisturizer
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 2, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine, tetrapeptide-21
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Anti-blemish
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains bakuchiol.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium pca, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl alcohol, Yucca glauca root extract, Bakuchiol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl glucoside, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Ceramide eop, Sodium hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Camellia sinensis polyphenols, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, Genistein, Punica granatum sterols, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Squalane, Ceramide 2, Tetrapeptide-21, Resveratrol, Bisabolol, Caffeine, Tocopheryl acetate, Lecithin, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Carbomer, Xanthan gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium edta, Parfum
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing
- A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trial
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmetics
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrol
- Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease?
- Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skin
- Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agent
- Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation
- Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skin
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation