Derm Institute

Derm Institute Anti-Oxidant Hydration Cream

Name: Derm Institute - Anti-Oxidant Hydration Cream
Brand: Derm Institute

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

38 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Anti-Oxidant Hydration Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, algae extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 1, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 ii, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, phytosphingosine

Ceramide 6 iiHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.5%

Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.4–0.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%

HydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: HighIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.5–0.75%

Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.6%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.25–0.5%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.55%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.1–7.5%

Ceramide 1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.25%

Ceramide 3Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.5%

Crithmum maritimum extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2.1%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~4.5–5.5%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.25–0.45%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.7–1.1%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~2–2.4%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.3–0.55%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~3.3–4%

Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.25–0.4%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.4–0.6%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.3–0.55%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

Trametes versicolor extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare products~0.25–0.45%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%

Anti-aging

12 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“Protect the skin from environmental damage with the Derm Institute Anti-Oxidant Hydration Cream, a nourishing skincare treatment that promotes elasticity and works to restore the skin’s natural balance.Providing nourishment to the skin, this cream contains a range of natural botanical ingredients including red algae to help support the production of hyaluronic acid.”

Source: SpaceNK EU

This product contains adenosine triphosphate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, resveratrol. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Adenosine triphosphateKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.6%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.25–0.45%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.55%

HydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.5–0.75%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.25–0.45%

Corallina officinalis extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.4–0.6%

Pyridoxine hclEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.4%

Crithmum maritimum extractEffect: LowAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%

ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.25–0.45%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.5%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~2–2.4%est.

Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.1–7.5%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.7–1.1%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Pyridoxine hclMight help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.

Trametes versicolor extractA mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.4–0.6%est.

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Crithmum maritimum extractAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.1–7.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Cyclopentasiloxane~4.5–5.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Isononyl isononanoate~3.3–4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Glycerin~2.5–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Propylene glycol~2–2.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2.1%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Bacopa monnieri extract~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bacopa monnieri extract

Cetearyl olivate~1.2–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Sorbitan olivate~0.9–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Pentylene glycol~0.7–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Saccharide isomerate~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Hydroxyproline~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-aging

Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Hydroxyproline

Butylene glycol~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Corallina officinalis extract~0.4–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Niacinamide~0.4–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Propanediol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Allantoin~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Silanetriol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Silanetriol

Bisabolol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Algae extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Alpinia galanga leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Alpinia galanga leaf extract

Angelica acutiloba root extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Angelica acutiloba root extract

Ergothioneine~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine

Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate

Panthenol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Poria cocos extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Poria cocos extract

Pyridoxine hcl~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Pyridoxine hcl

Resveratrol~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Cordyceps sinensis extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cordyceps sinensis extract

Acetyl tyrosine~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acetyl tyrosine

Proline~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Sorbitol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Trametes versicolor extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizing

A mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare products

More about Trametes versicolor extract

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine triphosphate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

More about Adenosine triphosphate

Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein

Ethoxydiglycol~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Disodium phosphate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate

Sodium phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium phosphate

Lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract

Palmitoyl oligopeptide~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil

Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate

Glyceryl caprylate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Crithmum maritimum extract~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Crithmum maritimum extract

Glucose~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Citric acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Sorbic acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid

Ceramide 3~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide 3

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Caramel~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Caramel

Ceramide 6 ii~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide 6 ii

Cholesterol~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Carbomer~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Oleic acid~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Capryloyl heptapeptide-12~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Capryloyl heptapeptide-12

Colloidal gold~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Colloidal gold

Ceramide 1~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide 1

Parfum~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isononyl isononanoate, Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Cetearyl alcohol, Bacopa monnieri extract, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Pentylene glycol, Saccharide isomerate, Hydroxyproline, Butylene glycol, Corallina officinalis extract, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Niacinamide, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Hyaluronic acid, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Allantoin, Silanetriol, Bisabolol, Algae extract, Alpinia galanga leaf extract, Angelica acutiloba root extract, Ergothioneine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, Panthenol, Poria cocos extract, Pyridoxine hcl, Resveratrol, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Cordyceps sinensis extract, Acetyl tyrosine, Proline, Sorbitol, Trametes versicolor extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine triphosphate, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Ethoxydiglycol, Xanthan gum, Disodium phosphate, Sodium phosphate, Lecithin, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Glyceryl caprylate, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Crithmum maritimum extract, Glucose, Citric acid, Lactic acid, Sodium citrate, Sorbic acid, Ceramide 3, Sodium benzoate, Caramel, Ceramide 6 ii, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Potassium sorbate, Carbomer, Oleic acid, Capryloyl heptapeptide-12, Colloidal gold, Ceramide 1, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Derm InstituteAnti-Oxidant Hydration CreamYOUR PRODUCT	DermaticaNourishing Ceramide + Peptides	MEDI-PEELGold Age Tox H8 Cream	CeraVeBaby Moisturizing Lotion
Match	—	75%	72%	70%
Price	$150.00	$21.09−$128.91	$20.25−$129.75	$9.99−$140.01
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 29	14 of 29	9 of 29
Key difference	—	Ceramide Ap	Oligopeptide-1	Sodium Pca
Irritancy	Medium	Low	High	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Derm Institute - Anti-Oxidant Hydration Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Derm Institute - Anti-Oxidant Hydration Cream ticks this box. Algae extract, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, saccharide isomerate and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 1, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 ii, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide 1 0.15% - 0.25%, ceramide 6 ii 0.25% - 0.50%, phytosphingosine 0.25% - 0.50% and ceramide 3 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.30% - 0.55% and palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.35% - 0.60%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: niacinamide, lecithin, lactic acid, allantoin, ergothioneine and jojoba oil

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 150.00£ up to 186.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 150.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 32 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
5
Topical effects of N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline on ceramide synthesis and alleviation of pruritusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
11
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
12
A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Studymdpi.com
14
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
15
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
16
Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrollink.springer.com
17
Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease? fasebj.org
18
Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skineuropepmc.org
19
Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agentmdpi.com
20
Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation
21
Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skinresearchgate.net
22
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
24
Compositions and methods for treating skin with extract from trametespatents.google.com
25
Melia azedarachmdedge.com
26
Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overviewjapsonline.com
27
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
30
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887sciencedirect.com

Derm InstituteAnti-Oxidant Hydration Cream

Buy at SpaceNK US$150.00 Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at SpaceNK US$150.00 Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.