Works for
2 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Moisturizing23 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Signature Repair Melasma Cream”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
arginine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: copper tripeptide-1, niacinamide, sh-oligopeptide-1, sh-oligopeptide-2, sh-polypeptide-11
Anti-aging8 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Contains natural ingredients, such as peptides, eggplant and blueberry extracts, to help restore skin vitality and elasticity.”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: copper tripeptide-1, sh-oligopeptide-1, sh-oligopeptide-2, sh-polypeptide-11.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Evens skin toneNot advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Anti-blemishNot advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy7 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract + 5 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale2 flagged
User reviews
Be the first — your take helps the next person decide.
Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Glycerin~4.7–5.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinEthyl hexanoate~4.1–5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.1–3.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
More about CyclopentasiloxaneDipropylene glycol~2.2–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
More about Dipropylene glycolCyclohexasiloxane~2–2.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels
More about CyclohexasiloxaneDimethicone~1.7–2.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
More about DimethiconeGlyceryl stearate~1.5–1.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearateNiacinamide~1.2–1.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
More about NiacinamideMacadamia ternifolia seed oil~1–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients
More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oilStearyl alcohol~0.8–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Stearyl alcoholCetearyl olivate~0.6–0.9%
Cetearyl alcohol~0.6–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholFucus vesiculosus extract~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Prunella vulgaris extract~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Sh-oligopeptide-1~0.4–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Sh-oligopeptide-1Sh-oligopeptide-2~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Sh-oligopeptide-2Sh-polypeptide-11~0.35–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Sh-polypeptide-11Copper tripeptide-1~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.
More about Copper tripeptide-1Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.55%
Solanum melongena fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Eggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
More about Solanum melongena fruit extractEuterpe edulis fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Vaccinium angustifolium fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A plant extract tha can have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
More about Vaccinium angustifolium fruit extractAronia arbutifolia extract~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Nelumbium speciosum flower extract~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
More about Hamamelis virginiana leaf extractMelaleuca alternifolia leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties
More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extractHippophae rhamnoides fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking
More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractHydrolyzed collagen extract~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Squalane~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
More about SqualaneSodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
More about Sodium hyaluronateBeta-glucan~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Beta-glucanAscorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- High
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
More about Ascorbic acidSorbitan olivate~0.25–0.5%
Peg-100 stearate~0.35–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearatePanthenol~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
More about PanthenolStearic acid~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
More about Stearic acidGlycosyl trehalose~0.25–0.5%
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can add sweet taste to lip products
More about Hydrogenated starch hydrolysateDimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture
More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymerArginine~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
More about ArginineButylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolPropanediol~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
More about PropanediolHydroxyacetophenone~0.25–0.45%
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.4%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizateAdenosine~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
More about AdenosineCarbomer~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
More about CarbomerAcrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerDisodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Parfum~0.15–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumCitral~0.15–0.25%
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Limonene~0.1–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- High
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
More about LimoneneLinalool~0.1–0.15%
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Ethyl hexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate, Niacinamide, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Stearyl alcohol, Cetearyl olivate, Cetearyl alcohol, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Prunella vulgaris extract, Sh-oligopeptide-1, Sh-oligopeptide-2, Sh-polypeptide-11, Copper tripeptide-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Solanum melongena fruit extract, Euterpe edulis fruit extract, Vaccinium angustifolium fruit extract, Aronia arbutifolia extract, Nelumbium speciosum flower extract, Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Hydrolyzed collagen extract, Squalane, Sodium hyaluronate, Beta-glucan, Ascorbic acid, Sorbitan olivate, Peg-100 stearate, Panthenol, Stearic acid, Glycosyl trehalose, Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Arginine, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Carbomer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Parfum, Citral, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| APLBSignature Repair Melasma CreamYOUR PRODUCT | TOSOWOONGCica Snail Cream | SNPPeptaronic Cream | looks&meiiRich Routine Barrier Cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 85% | 84% | 83% |
| Price | $24.00 | $16.40−$7.60 | $12.00−$12.00 | $39.00+$15.00 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 8 of 16 | 8 of 16 | 10 of 16 |
| Key difference | — | Madecassoside | Hexapeptide-11 | Tripeptide-1 |
| Irritancy | High | Medium | Medium | High |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | Contains drying alcohol |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "APLB - Signature Repair Melasma Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. APLB - Signature Repair Melasma Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (arginine, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Arginine, dimethicone, squalane, cetearyl alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (copper tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55%, sh-polypeptide-11 0.35% - 0.65%, sh-oligopeptide-2 0.40% - 0.60% and sh-oligopeptide-1 0.40% - 0.65%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 24.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
- 4
- 5
- 6
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