Allies of Skin - Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream

Allies of Skin Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream

Efficacy100/100

Works for:

based on ingredients and %
  • Anti-aging
  • Evens skin tone
  • Anti-blemish
  • Moisturizing

Can it cause trouble?

  • Irritation risk: medium
  • Comedogenic risk ingredients: 0

Key actives

Centella asiatica extract0.45% - 0.65%Beta-glucan0.45% - 0.65%Camellia sinensis leaf extract0.3% - 0.5%
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Product Summary

"Allies of Skin - Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Allies of Skin - Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, arginine, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, argania spinosa kernel oil and phytosteryl macadamiate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.25% - 0.45%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.45% - 0.70%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.30% - 0.55%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.50% and madecassoside 0.30% - 0.60% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: salicylic acid, vitamin e and lecithin

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Allies of Skin" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

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