Allies of Skin

Allies of Skin Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream

Name: Allies of Skin - Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream
Brand: Allies of Skin

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Who it's for Ideal for all skin types, especially dull, dehydrated skin or skin showing signs of premature aging.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, asiaticoside, epigallocatechin gallate, madecassoside, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.25–0.45%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.3–0.6%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.3–0.5%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.45–0.65%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.5%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Evens skin tone

6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“With regular use signs of sun-induced photoaging like dark spots and wrinkles appear faded, leaving skin looking youthful, refined and with multiple signs of aging visibly reduced.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains glutathione. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: epigallocatechin gallate, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.3–0.6%

Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.1–0.2%

Anti-blemish

6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Retinal has also been shown to help reduce the appearance of blemishes, helping to clear breakout-prone skin.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: epigallocatechin gallate

Salicylic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.1–0.2%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.45–0.65%

Moisturizing

33 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Who it's for Ideal for all skin types, especially dull, dehydrated skin or skin showing signs of premature aging.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np, madecassoside, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, palmitoyl tripeptide-5

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–5.8%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.5%

Hydrolyzed jojoba estersKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.3–0.6%

OrnithineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Phytosteryl macadamiateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Argania spinosa kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~4.1–5%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.1–3.8%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.45–0.7%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.45%

Punica granatum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Epigallocatechin gallateEffect: LowA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.3–0.5%

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.45–0.65%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 14 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, glutathione, madecassoside, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - epigallocatechin gallate also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.3–0.6%

Lonicera japonica flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Rubus chamaemorus seed oilEffect: LowA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating~0.45–0.7%

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~4.1–5%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.5%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

24 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rubus chamaemorus seed oilA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.1–0.2%est.

Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~4.1–5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.1–3.8%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.2–2.7%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.7–1.05%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.5–0.8%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.7–5.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Argania spinosa kernel oil~4.1–5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.1–3.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Polysorbate 60~2.2–2.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan isostearate~1.8–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Punica granatum seed oil~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Punica granatum seed oil

Methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate

Not recognized

Cyclodextrin~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin

Phytosteryl macadamiate~1.2–1.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Phytosteryl macadamiate

Sodium polyacrylate~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate

Propanediol~0.7–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.7–1.05%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.5–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Rubus chamaemorus seed oil~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating

More about Rubus chamaemorus seed oil

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters

Beta-glucan~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Ceramide np~0.45–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Centella asiatica extract~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Madecassoside~0.3–0.6%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Asiaticoside~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Epigallocatechin gallate~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationMoisturizing

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

More about Epigallocatechin gallate

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Ubiquinone~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Ornithine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Ornithine

Bisabolol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Retinal~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Glutathione~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione

Arginine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Phospholipids~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Glycolipids~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glycolipids

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract

Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract

Panthenol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate

Sodium gluconate~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Disodium phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Sodium phosphate~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium phosphate

Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Citric acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Butylene glycol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Carbomer~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Tropolone~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tropolone

Levulinic acid~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

P-anisic acid~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid

Salicylic acid~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan isostearate, Punica granatum seed oil, Unknown, Cyclodextrin, Phytosteryl macadamiate, Sodium polyacrylate, Propanediol, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Beta-glucan, Ceramide np, Centella asiatica extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Epigallocatechin gallate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ubiquinone, Lecithin, Ornithine, Bisabolol, Retinal, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glutathione, Arginine, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Glycolipids, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Panthenol, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Xanthan gum, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Potassium sorbate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Sodium gluconate, Pentylene glycol, Disodium phosphate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Sodium phosphate, Sodium hydroxide, Citric acid, Butylene glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Tropolone, Levulinic acid, Phenoxyethanol, P-anisic acid, Salicylic acid

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Allies of SkinRetinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Spectacle SkincarePerformance Crème	Skin FunctionalUltimate Ageing Moisturiser, All Skin	Transparent LabRetinal Age Reverse Cream
Match	—	57%	56%	53%
Price	—	$100.47	—	$22.48
Shared key ingredients	—	9 of 28	8 of 28	6 of 28
Key difference	—	Niacinamide	Nonapeptide-1	Bakuchiol
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Allies of Skin - Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Allies of Skin - Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, arginine, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, argania spinosa kernel oil and phytosteryl macadamiate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.25% - 0.45%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.45% - 0.70%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.30% - 0.55%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.50% and madecassoside 0.30% - 0.60% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: salicylic acid, vitamin e and lecithin

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Allies of Skin" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 56 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatologydoi.org
4
Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
5
β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucanonlinelibrary.wiley.com
7
Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro studysciencedirect.com
9
A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucanssciencedirect.com
10
Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeastonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
16
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
18
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
20
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
22
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
26
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com
28
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
29
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
Great green tea ingredient? A narrative literature review on epigallocatechin gallate and its biophysical properties for topical use in dermatologyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
Comparative Evaluation of Different Co-Antioxidants on the Photochemical- and Functional-Stability of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate in Topical Creams Exposed to Simulated Sunlightmdpi.com
32
Photodegradation of (−)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate in topical cream formulations and its photostabilizationsciencedirect.com
33
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
34
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
37
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
38
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
39
Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversiesijdvl.com
40
Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologistsijord.com
42
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
43
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
44
VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )semanticscholar.org
45
Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonicancbi.nlm.nih.gov
46
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
47
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
48
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredientsjournals.sagepub.com
49
Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
50
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
51
Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
52
Sodium anisateecha.europa.eu
53
Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
54
Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
55
A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
56
Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com

Allies of SkinRetinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream

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