TROIAREUKE Acsen Recovery

TROIAREUKE Acsen Recovery

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
Glycolic acid, Salicylic acid
Works well
What the product description says
“The Troiareuke Acsen Recovery Cream is a moisturiser and spot treatment that promotes healing, reduces pigmentation and calms skin inflammation.”
Source: beauty and Seoul

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.15–0.3%
Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.15–0.25%
Moisturizing
Olea europaea fruit oil, Isododecane + 21 more
Works
What the product description says
“The Troiareuke Acsen Recovery Cream is a moisturiser and spot treatment that promotes healing, reduces pigmentation and calms skin inflammation.”
Source: beauty and Seoul

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cyclomethicone, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~4.3–5.2%
IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~3.1–3.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–2.9%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.6–2%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1.3–1.6%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.65%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.35–0.65%
CyclomethiconeKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer~0.35–0.65%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%
StearoxytrimethylsilaneKey active· EmollientEffect: Medium~0.25–0.5%
Zea mays oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~6–7.3%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~1.1–1.3%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.7%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.45–0.7%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.55–0.8%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Argania spinosa kernel oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Glycolic acid, Salicylic acid
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.15–0.3%
Salicylic acidUnder-dosedUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.15–0.25%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Glycolic acid + 2 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.65%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.15–0.3%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Portulaca oleracea extract + 5 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.65%
Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Coptis japonica root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%
Calendula officinalis flower oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant~0.15–0.3%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Aniba rosaeodora wood oil, Calendula officinalis flower oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Coptis japonica root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Aniba rosaeodora wood oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.
Calendula officinalis flower oilA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Geranium maculatum oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.15–0.25%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~4.3–5.2%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.4–0.65%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Theobroma cacao extract—3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~6–7.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Olea europaea fruit oil~4.3–5.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Isododecane~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Glycerin~2.3–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Synthetic wax~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and thicken product consistency

More about Synthetic wax
Squalane~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cyclopentasiloxane~1.3–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Cetearyl olivate~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Centella asiatica extract~0.4–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Palmitic acid~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Stearic acid~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Cyclomethicone~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer

More about Cyclomethicone
Dimethicone~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
C30-45 olefin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about C30-45 olefin
Phenyl methicone~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Stearoxytrimethylsilane~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Stearoxytrimethylsilane
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Lecithin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Coptis japonica root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Coptis japonica root extract
Tropolone~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tropolone
Portulaca oleracea extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract
Betula platyphylla japonica juice~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Theobroma cacao extract~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Theobroma cacao extract
Argania spinosa kernel oil~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil
Zea mays oil~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Zea mays oil
Aniba rosaeodora wood oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Calendula officinalis flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant

More about Calendula officinalis flower oil
Geranium maculatum oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Geranium maculatum oil
Salicylic acid~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Dimethyl sulfone~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Dimethyl sulfone
Glycolic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Beta-glucan~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Disodium edta~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Olea europaea fruit oil, Isododecane, Glycerin, Synthetic wax, Squalane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Centella asiatica extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, C30-45 olefin, Phenyl methicone, Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Sodium hyaluronate, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Lecithin, Coptis japonica root extract, Tropolone, Portulaca oleracea extract, Betula platyphylla japonica juice, Tocopherol, Theobroma cacao extract, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Zea mays oil, Aniba rosaeodora wood oil, Calendula officinalis flower oil, Geranium maculatum oil, Salicylic acid, Dimethyl sulfone, Glycolic acid, Beta-glucan, Disodium edta

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/12 18:20 GMT
$69.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
TROIAREUKEAcsen RecoveryYOUR PRODUCTJan MariniBioclear CreamYEOUTHDaytime DefensePhilosophyClear Days Ahead Fast-Acting Salicylic Acid Acne Spot Treatment
Match—84%83%82%
Price$69.00$89.58+$20.58—$24.00−$45.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 144 of 144 of 14
Key difference—Azelaic AcidCopper Tripeptide-1Polysilicone-11
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 38 studies and safety reviews.

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.