The INKEY List CA C-50 Night Treatment

The INKEY List CA C-50 Night Treatment

Efficacy83/100IrritancyMedium·100% recommend (1 review)

Works for

Exfoliation
Salicylic acid
Works well
What the product description says
“Salicylic Acid also helps to exfoliate and unclog pores, while Lotus Extract helps to balance oil.”
Source: The Inkey list

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.5–2.3%
Anti-blemish
Salicylic acid, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Works well
What the product description says
“Its powerful combination of Vitamin C and Vitamin E helps reduce the bacteria count on your skin, helping prevent and reduce blemishes.”
Source: The Inkey list

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.5–2.3%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~3.4–5.1%
Evens skin tone
Salicylic acid, Madecassoside
Not delivered
What the product description says
“C-50 is a stable vitamin C derivative that brightens and evens your tone so that blemishes appear diminished, while simultaneously encouraging the renewal of your cells for quicker healing times.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product might help improve the skin tone through exfoliation. In other words, it helps to speed up the shedding of cells from the upper layer of the skin, and this might help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.5–2.3%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–1.1%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Madecassoside, Glycerin + 4 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–1.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.95–1.45%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.05–0.15%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Nelumbo nucifera flower extractEffect: Low, below effective dose~0.05–0.15%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.01–0.1%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Madecassoside + 3 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - sodium ascorbyl phosphate also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~3.4–5.1%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–1.1%
Nelumbo nucifera flower extractEffect: Low, below effective dose~0.05–0.15%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.01–0.1%
Anti-aging
Side benefit the brand mentions · Madecassoside, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“It minimizes skin’s excess oil production, and also has anti inflammatory and anti redness properties, whilst evening skin tone.”
Source: Boots

This product contains madecassoside. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–1.1%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: LowA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~3.4–5.1%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.01–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Nelumbo nucifera flower extract
Medium risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~1.5–2.3%est.
Nelumbo nucifera flower extract—High~0.05–0.15%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~3.4–5.1%est.
Caprylyl/capryl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agentMedium~1.3–2%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.45–1.1%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

User reviews

Would you recommend?
100%·yes

1 of 1 community members would buy it again.

100% would0% wouldn't
  • 84Reasons· Jan 2024Recommends

    Felt like it cleared out my skin a little

What reviewers noticed
Marker shows the average response

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.3–6.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~3.4–5.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Salicylic acid~1.5–2.3%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside~1.3–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Caprylyl/capryl glucoside
Xanthan gum~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Glycerin~0.95–1.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sodium hydroxide~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Madecassoside~0.45–1.1%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium gluconate~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Lecithin~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Nelumbo nucifera flower extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing
More about Nelumbo nucifera flower extract
Nymphaea coerulea flower extract~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Tocopherol~0.01–0.1%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Salicylic acid, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Xanthan gum, Glycerin, Sodium hydroxide, Madecassoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium gluconate, Sodium metabisulfite, Lecithin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Nelumbo nucifera flower extract, Nymphaea coerulea flower extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil

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The Inkey list
$12.99
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Amazon US30 Grams
Price unavailable Out of stock
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The INKEY List CAC-50 Night TreatmentYOUR PRODUCTcolibri skincare2% BHA PeelingDermalogicabreakout clearing liquid peelGeek GorgeousCalm Down Liquid
Match—77%75%75%
Price$12.99—$37.50+$24.51$13.02
Shared key ingredients—2 of 52 of 52 of 5
Key difference—Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractAzelaic AcidLactobionic Acid
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

"The INKEY List CA - C-50 Night Treatment" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-blemish, Exfoliation and Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Salicylic acid (1.50% - 2.30%). This is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid. Because of this property, it can work inside pores and help reduce the congestion. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used to treat acne. Because it is a quite strong exfoliator, be careful with using this product too often: it could result in over-exfoliation.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.45% - 1.10% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
  • Humectants (glycerin 0.95% - 1.45%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 12.99CA$ in Canada, from 11.62£ up to 14.49£ in the United Kingdom and from 12.99$ up to 14.49$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

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The INKEY List CA C-50 Night Treatment
The INKEY List CAC-50 Night Treatment

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