Facetheory Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil

Facetheory Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Glycerin + 8 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Centella extract has been shown to improve skin's firmness, elasticity and moisture after six months.”
Source: Facetheory UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: oenothera biennis oil, polyglyceryl-6 stearate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.2–1.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.2–4.9%
Polyglyceryl-6 stearateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2.4%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.5–1.2%
Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.1–0.35%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.15%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.1–1.6%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.45–1%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.01–0.1%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.55%
Anti-aging
Ferulic acid, Tocopherol + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“Centasoothe Botanical Serum S5 contains botanical extracts of Dragon's Blood and Centella Asiatica, which can help to rebuild collagen.”
Source: Facetheory UK

This product contains ferulic acid. There is some human evidence that this ingredient helps reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.1–1.6%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.8–2.8%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.01–0.1%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.55%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Tocopherol, Ferulic acid + 2 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid, tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.1–1.6%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.05–0.25%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.5–1.2%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.8–2.8%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Ferulic acid, Lactic acid
May help

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ferulic acid.

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.05–0.25%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Sodium anisate
Medium risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sodium anisateUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.9–1.4%est.
Polyglyceryl-4 oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.3–3.4%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~1.8–2.8%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.6–1.35%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.15–0.55%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 behenateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.1–0.35%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.01–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.6–6.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~3.2–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-4 oleate~2.3–3.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 oleate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~1.8–2.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Polyglyceryl-6 stearate~1.6–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 stearate
Panthenol~1.2–1.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Tocopherol~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium anisate~0.9–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Sodium anisate
Sodium levulinate~0.6–1.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Oenothera biennis oil~0.5–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Glyceryl caprylate~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize formulations

More about Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose
Croton lechleri sap extract~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Lactic acid~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Polyglyceryl-6 behenate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-6 behenate
Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract~0.1–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract
Ferulic acid~0.05–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatory

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid
Sodium hyaluronate~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Xanthan gum~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Sodium anisate, Sodium levulinate, Oenothera biennis oil, Glyceryl caprylate, Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, Croton lechleri sap extract, Lactic acid, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract, Ferulic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Xanthan gum, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
FacetheoryCentasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose OilYOUR PRODUCTNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICReal Vita C SerumZENiiAntioxidant Power SerumThe Purest SolutionsVitamin B Complex Serum
Match—59%55%53%
Price—$8.14——
Shared key ingredients—5 of 85 of 84 of 8
Key difference—NiacinamideVitamin CNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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More alternatives: Formulyst Active Serum – Vitamin B, C, E, Ferulic + NiacinamideSkinCeuticals C E Ferulic vitamin C serum

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Product summary

"Facetheory - Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory and Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Evens skin tone and Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 1.20% - 1.70% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.
  • Humectants (panthenol 1.20% - 1.70%, sodium hyaluronate 0.05% - 0.15% and glycerin 3.20% - 4.90%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Facetheory" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 14.99£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

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Facetheory Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil
FacetheoryCentasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil

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