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Sesderma AZELAC Moisturizing Cream
Sesderma

Sesderma AZELAC Moisturizing Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Specifically formulated for dry skin, Azelac cream supplies active ingredients with a soothing and anti-radical effect, sebum-regulating and anti-ageing action.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.45–0.7%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–0.65%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.55–0.85%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.7%
Moisturizing
14 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“AZELAC Moisturizing Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: pantolactone, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.7–3.3%
PantolactoneKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~0.6–0.9%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%
Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~4.3–5.2%
Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.5–0.75%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.65–1%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: HighA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.55–0.85%
Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.75–1.15%
Silybum marianum extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone~0.65–0.95%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid, retinal. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

Azelaic acidHeroEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.6–0.9%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.45–0.7%
Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~4.3–5.2%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–0.65%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.55–0.85%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains azelaic acid, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, tranexamic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.6–0.9%
Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~4.3–5.2%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.45–0.7%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~0.6–0.9%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.55–0.85%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (azelaic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.6–0.9%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–0.7%
Silybum marianum extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone~0.65–0.95%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%
Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: Low, below effective dosePlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.75–1.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Alcohol, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~1.1–1.4%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.95–1.15%est.
Silybum marianum extractMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin toneHigh~0.65–0.95%est.
NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Tribehenin peg-20 estersHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~5.8–7.1%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~2–2.4%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.75–1.15%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–2.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Tribehenin peg-20 esters~5.8–7.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Tribehenin peg-20 esters
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate~4.3–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

More about Potassium azeloyl diglycinate
Propanediol~3.3–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Dimethicone~2.7–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–2.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl behenate~2–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Titanium dioxide~2.1–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Lecithin~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Propylene glycol~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Alcohol~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.75–1.15%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract
Hydrogenated polydecene~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Silybum marianum extract~0.65–0.95%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone

More about Silybum marianum extract
Azelaic acid~0.6–0.9%
Hero · Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationExfoliation

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

More about Azelaic acid
Boswellia serrata gum~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Boswellia serrata gum
Tranexamic acid~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally

More about Tranexamic acid
Niacin~0.55–0.85%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin
Cetylpyridinium chloride~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Cetylpyridinium chloride
Panthenol~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Cichorium intybus root extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cichorium intybus root extract
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Sodium hyaluronate~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Retinyl palmitate~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Retinal~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Phytosphingosine hcl~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phytosphingosine hcl
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil
Dipropylene glycol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Mica~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Triethanolamine~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures

More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
Polysorbate 20~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Sodium cholate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium cholate
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Sodium hydroxide~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium chloride~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Laureth-7~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Tin oxide~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Tocopherol~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Pantolactone~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Pantolactone
Hydrochloric acid~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrochloric acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

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Ethylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium sorbate~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Parfum~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Linalool~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Benzyl salicylate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Citronellol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Benzyl benzoate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Farnesol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Geraniol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Ingredient list view

Water, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl behenate, Titanium dioxide, Lecithin, Propylene glycol, Alcohol, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Hydrogenated polydecene, Silybum marianum extract, Azelaic acid, Boswellia serrata gum, Tranexamic acid, Niacin, Cetylpyridinium chloride, Panthenol, Cichorium intybus root extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Retinyl palmitate, Retinal, Phytosphingosine hcl, Hydrogenated lecithin, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Dipropylene glycol, Mica, Triethanolamine, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Xanthan gum, Tocopheryl acetate, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium cholate, C13-14 isoparaffin, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium chloride, Laureth-7, Tin oxide, Tocopherol, Pantolactone, Hydrochloric acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium sorbate, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl salicylate, Citronellol, Benzyl benzoate, Farnesol, Geraniol, Benzyl alcohol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfectionsdovepress.com
  3. 3
    Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibriumresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-agingresearchgate.net
  5. 5
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  6. 6
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
Sesderma AZELAC Moisturizing Cream
SesdermaAZELAC Moisturizing Cream
Buy on Amazon$80.00 · as of 10/9 21:04 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$80.00 · as of 10/9 21:04 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.