Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Anti-aging effect.
Source: Sesderma
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid, retinal. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
In addition, this product contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (azelaic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - silybum marianum extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.
In addition, this product contains azelaic acid, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, tranexamic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
This moisturizing cream is ideal for the daily care of reactive, sensitive, and reddened skin.
Source: Sesderma
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
pantolactone, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, triticum vulgare germ oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Sesderma AZELAC Moisturizing Cream | Current | ≈ $38.79 | |
Boots Dermacare Hyperpigmentation Cream | 55% | ≈ $20.03 | |
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cosdebahaofficial Azelaic Acid 20% Facial Cream | 54% | - | |
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Key Actives
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating
Comedogenic ingredients
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
All ingredients
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures
A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation
Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating
Ingredient list view
Water, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Propanediol, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl behenate, Titanium dioxide, Propylene glycol, Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated polydecene, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Silybum marianum extract, Azelaic acid, Boswellia serrata gum, Tranexamic acid, Niacin, Cetylpyridinium chloride, Panthenol, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Retinal, Phytosphingosine hcl, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol, Carbomer, Dipropylene glycol, Mica, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan gum, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium cholate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium chloride, Linalool, Potassium sorbate, Tin oxide, Benzyl salicylate, Citronellol, Calcium chloride, Calcium sulfate, Pantolactone, Hydrochloric acid
- Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea
- A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfections
- Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
- Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-aging
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Safety Assessment of Polyene Group as Used in Cosmetics
- Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluation
- Tranexamic acid accelerates skin barrier recovery and upregulates occludin in damaged skin
- The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin dryness
- Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasma
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Safety Assessment of Tin(IV) Oxide as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics