Sesderma - Azekac RU Gel Cream

Sesderma Azekac RU Gel Cream

WORKS FOR
  • Anti-aging
  • Anti-oxidation
  • Exfoliation
  • Moisturizing
  • Evens skin tone
  • Anti-blemish
  • +3 more
KEY INGREDIENTS
  • retinol
  • retinal
  • bakuchiol
  • azelaic acid
  • ascorbyl glucoside
  • 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
  • nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1
  • palmitoyl tripeptide-5
  • paraffinum liquidum
  • caprylic/capric triglyceride
  • cetyl alcohol
  • cyclopentasiloxane
  • dimethicone
  • glycerin
  • glycyrrhetinic acid
  • niacin
  • nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-76
  • polysilicone-11
  • silica
  • tocopherol
  • tranexamic acid
  • triticum vulgare germ extract
  • undecylenoyl phenylalanine
  • +20 more
PROMISES
FULFILLED
100 /100
IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Formula review

See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Over time, blemished areas will seem improved while the gel works to reduce their chances of reappearance."
WIMJ summary

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid, retinal, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Ideal for anyone suffering from signs of photo-ageing, wrinkles and dark spots, the gel cream is a targeted treatment that aims to create a more youthful illusion across skin."
WIMJ summary

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, retinol, bakuchiol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Ideal for anyone suffering from signs of photo-ageing, wrinkles and dark spots, the gel cream is a targeted treatment that aims to create a more youthful illusion across skin."
WIMJ summary

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal, retinol.

In addition, this product contains azelaic acid, bakuchiol, tranexamic acid, undecylenoyl phenylalanine. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
See a mistake?
WIMJ summary

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
MEDIUM
meets threshold
LOW
does not meet threshold
See a mistake?
WIMJ summary

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, paraffinum liquidum

See a mistake?
WIMJ summary

This product contains antioxidants (azelaic acid, bakuchiol, glycyrrhetinic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold

Potential irritants

IRRITANCY
HIGH

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient Estimated concentration
Plain old water
45% - 55%
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
4.5% - 5.6%
One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function
4.1% - 5%
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absord oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
3.1% - 3.7%
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
2.3% - 2.8%
Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
1.9% - 2.3%
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
1.6% - 2%
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
1.5% - 1.8%
An amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.
1.1% - 1.4%
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone
0.9% - 1.15%
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
0.7% - 1%
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
0.55% - 0.85%
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
0.5% - 0.8%
0.5% - 0.7%
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
0.45% - 0.7%
0.45% - 0.65%
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
0.45% - 0.7%
0.45% - 0.65%
A plant extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
0.4% - 0.6%
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
0.4% - 0.6%
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
0.35% - 0.6%
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
0.3% - 0.6%
0.3% - 0.55%
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
0.3% - 0.55%
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
0.3% - 0.55%
A fusion peptide that combines peptides produced by human and plant cells. It might have anti-aging effect in skin and can help the skin moisturization
0.3% - 0.55%
Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture
0.3% - 0.55%
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
0.4% - 0.6%
Helps oil and water mix together
0.3% - 0.6%
Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance
0.35% - 0.6%
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin
0.3% - 0.55%
Helps create a gel-like product texture. Can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
0.3% - 0.55%
A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels
0.35% - 0.65%
Used to create a thicker product consistency
0.3% - 0.6%
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
0.4% - 0.6%
Helps oil and water mix together
0.35% - 0.6%
0.25% - 0.5%
0.3% - 0.55%
A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel
0.35% - 0.6%
Used to adjust the product's pH
0.3% - 0.55%
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
0.3% - 0.55%
A preservative
0.3% - 0.55%
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
0.3% - 0.6%
Stabilizes the product formulation
0.3% - 0.55%
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
0.3% - 0.6%
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
0.4% - 0.6%
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
0.3% - 0.55%
Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin
0.45% - 0.7%
Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration
0.3% - 0.55%
Helps oil and water mix together
0.3% - 0.6%
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
0.4% - 0.6%
Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating
0.35% - 0.6%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
0.35% - 0.6%
Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating
0.4% - 0.65%
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
0.3% - 0.5%
Helps adjust pH in products
0.3% - 0.5%
0.25% - 0.5%
Helps preserve the product formulation
0.25% - 0.45%
Helps create a more spreadable product texture
0.2% - 0.4%
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
0.25% - 0.45%
Used to adjust the pH of the product
0.2% - 0.35%
Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin
0.2% - 0.35%
Helps regulate the pH of the formulation
0.15% - 0.3%
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
0.15% - 0.3%
A preservative
0.15% - 0.25%
A preservative
0.15% - 0.25%
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
0.05% - 0.15%

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