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Sesderma Azekac RU Gel Cream
Sesderma

Sesderma Azekac RU Gel Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone
Retinol, Retinal + 8 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Ideal for anyone suffering from signs of photo-ageing, wrinkles and dark spots, the gel cream is a targeted treatment that aims to create a more youthful illusion across skin.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal, retinol.

In addition, this product contains azelaic acid, bakuchiol, tranexamic acid, undecylenoyl phenylalanine. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.7–1%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.4–0.6%
Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.6%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~0.9–1.15%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.55–0.85%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.~1.1–1.4%
Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.45–0.65%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.3–0.6%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.3–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Retinal, Retinol + 3 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Over time, blemished areas will seem improved while the gel works to reduce their chances of reappearance.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid, retinal, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.55–0.85%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.7–1%
Azelaic acidHeroEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.4–0.6%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Anti-aging
Retinal, Retinol + 9 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Ideal for anyone suffering from signs of photo-ageing, wrinkles and dark spots, the gel cream is a targeted treatment that aims to create a more youthful illusion across skin.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, retinol, bakuchiol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.4–0.6%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.55–0.85%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.7–1%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.8%
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-76Effect: LowA fusion peptide that combines peptides produced by human and plant cells. It might have anti-aging effect in skin and can help the skin moisturization~0.3–0.55%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Glycyrrhetinic acid, Retinol + 8 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (azelaic acid, bakuchiol, glycyrrhetinic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.45–0.65%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.7–1%
Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.3–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%
Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: Low, below effective dosePlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.35–0.6%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Azelaic acid
Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.7–1%
Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: MediumIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.6%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, Paraffinum liquidum + 20 more
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, paraffinum liquidum

Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-76Key activeEffect: HighA fusion peptide that combines peptides produced by human and plant cells. It might have anti-aging effect in skin and can help the skin moisturization~0.3–0.55%
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~0.9–1.15%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.4–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.35–0.6%
Paraffinum liquidumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~4.1–5%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.8%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.5–1.8%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.1–3.7%
Arachidyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~1.9–2.3%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.4–0.6%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.4–0.6%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.35–0.6%
Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.3–2.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: HighA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.45–0.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.4–0.6%
Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.35–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Alcohol, Retinol + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~1.6–2%est.
Undecylenoyl phenylalanineAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.High~1.1–1.4%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.7–1%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Bellis perennis flower extractA plant extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus grandis fruit extract—High~0.25–0.5%est.
Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Isoceteth-10Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.35–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.5–5.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Paraffinum liquidum~4.1–5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.1–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Lecithin~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Arachidyl alcohol~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol
Alcohol~1.6–2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Cetyl alcohol~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine~1.1–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

An amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.

More about Undecylenoyl phenylalanine
Tranexamic acid~0.9–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally

More about Tranexamic acid
Retinol~0.7–1%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Retinal~0.55–0.85%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-aging

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.5–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypedtide-7~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypedtide-7
Niacin~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-aging

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin
Morus alba root extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Morus alba root extract
Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.45–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid
Diacetyl boldine~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Diacetyl boldine
Bellis perennis flower extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Bellis perennis flower extract
Bakuchiol~0.4–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Azelaic acid~0.35–0.6%
Hero · Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

More about Azelaic acid
Ascorbyl glucoside~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
4-butylresorcinol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about 4-butylresorcinol
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-2~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-2
Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-76~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A fusion peptide that combines peptides produced by human and plant cells. It might have anti-aging effect in skin and can help the skin moisturization

More about Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-76
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Behenyl alcohol~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Arachidyl glucoside~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside
Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract
Propylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Carbomer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Dimethicone~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Polysorbate 20~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Citrus grandis fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus grandis fruit extract
Sodium cholate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium cholate
Polysilicone-11~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Bht~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Disodium edta~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glyceryl stearate~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Silica~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Sodium chloride~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Isoceteth-10~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Isoceteth-10
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glyceryl oleate~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate
Glycerin~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Decyl glucoside~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Citric acid~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Tromethamine~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Hydrochloric acid~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrochloric acid
Bha~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha
Hexylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Dipotassium phosphate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH of the product

More about Dipotassium phosphate
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin
Potassium phosphate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Paraffinum liquidum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Lecithin, Arachidyl alcohol, Alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Undecylenoyl phenylalanine, Tranexamic acid, Retinol, Retinal, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypedtide-7, Niacin, Morus alba root extract, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Diacetyl boldine, Bellis perennis flower extract, Bakuchiol, Azelaic acid, Ascorbyl glucoside, 4-butylresorcinol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-2, Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-76, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Propylene glycol, Carbomer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Xanthan gum, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Sodium cholate, Polysilicone-11, Sodium hydroxide, Butylene glycol, Bht, Tocopheryl acetate, Disodium edta, Tocopherol, Glyceryl stearate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Silica, Sodium chloride, Isoceteth-10, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl oleate, Glycerin, Decyl glucoside, Citric acid, Tromethamine, Hydrochloric acid, Bha, Hexylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Dipotassium phosphate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Potassium phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium sorbate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
SesdermaAzekac RU Gel CreamYOUR PRODUCTSCINICCicanoid Retinal CreamSkincare by Dr VTRIO Blemish PM Gel Moisturiser
Match—53%51%
Price$53.47$22.30−$31.17$72.19+$18.72
Shared key ingredients—6 of 204 of 20
Key difference—NiacinamideSalicylic Acid
Irritancy High High Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ——
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Sesderma - Azekac RU Gel Cream" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (paraffinum liquidum, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, cyclopentasiloxane and arachidyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.70% - 1.00% and retinal 0.55% - 0.85%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.50% - 0.80% and nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • This moisturizer contains Bakuchiol (0.40% - 0.60%). It is a plant extract that is has a similar effect to that of retinoids but with less irritation. Bakuchiol can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 55.20$ in the United States, for 70.00CA$ in Canada and for 40.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 30 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    A randomized, double‐blind, vehicle‐controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of solar lentiginesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluationonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Tranexamic acid accelerates skin barrier recovery and upregulates occludin in damaged skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin drynesssciencedirect.com
  6. 6
    Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasmaonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Sesderma Azekac RU Gel Cream
SesdermaAzekac RU Gel Cream
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