PRODUCT REVIEW
Philosophy ultimate miracle worker retinol pads x 60
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NassifMD Dermaceuticals - Hydration Serum with Micro-Spheres of Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides
Price: $45
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3.9% -
5.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
tocopherol
0.05% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3.9% -
5.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Anti-blemish
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Exfoliation
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Moisturizing
plukenetia volubilis seed oil
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid
squalene
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
carthamus tinctorius seed oil
0.3% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
Show more
Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
squalene
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
carthamus tinctorius seed oil
0.3% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
Promise | Can it deliver? |
---|---|
Anti-aging | |
Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
cocos nucifera oil
0.5% -
1.2%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
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Price | ||||||||||||
WIMJ similarity score |
63%
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79%
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76%
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73%
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72%
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72%
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71%
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71%
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71%
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71%
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71%
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Key ingredients |
| Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other:
| Common: Other: | Common:
Other:
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: |
Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
|
Potential Irritants |
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All ingredients |
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3.9% -
5.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Show more
Potential irritants
retinol
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
squalene
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
cocos nucifera oil
0.5% -
1.2%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
All ingredients
cyclopentasiloxane
23% -
35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
dimethicone
5.6% -
8.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3.9% -
5.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Show more
Ingredient list view
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Caprylic/capric glycerides, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Bisabolol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Squalene, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Retinol, Bht, Cocos nucifera oil, Medicago sativa extract, Olea europaea fruit oil, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Orchis mascula flower extract, Punica granatum seed oil, Farnesol, Tocopherol
Sources
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides
- Chemical composition of Sacha Inchi ( Plukenetia volubilis L.) seeds and characteristics of their lipid fraction
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cells
- Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil
- Vitamin E in dermatology