NARS Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer

NARS Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“The result is skin that's supple and fine lines and wrinkles that are softer and less visible.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, isododecane.

Ascophyllum nodosum extractKey activeEffect: HighBrown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.45%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.6–6.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%
IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin~2–2.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.5–0.75%
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.45%
Caprylyl methiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~0.7–1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Parfum, Thymus serpyllum extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Sophora angustifolia root extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Thymus serpyllum extract—High~0.25–0.5%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Peg-11 methyl ether dimethiconeHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dimethicone~5.6–6.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Dipropylene glycol~4.3–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Glycerin~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Isododecane~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate~2–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate
Glycereth-26~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26
Xylitol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl methicone~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Caprylyl methicone
Butylene glycol~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Peg-11 methyl ether dimethicone~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-11 methyl ether dimethicone
Caprylyl glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Polysilicone-11~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Bis-vinyldimethicone/peg-10 dimethicone crosspolymer~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Parfum~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Maris aqua~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua
Sea water~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Dissolves other ingredients. It does not have additional skin benefits compared to plain water

More about Sea water
Polysorbate 80~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Adenosine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Potassium hydroxide~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ascophyllum nodosum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Ascophyllum nodosum extract~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Brown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect

More about Ascophyllum nodosum extract
Ophiopogon japonicus
Not recognized
Ophiopogon japonicus root extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Ophiopogon japonicus root extract
Carrageenan~0.3–0.55%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Maris sal~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Sea salt~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sophora angustifolia
Not recognized
Sophora angustifolia root extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Barium sulfate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Barium sulfate
Paeonia albiflora root extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Thymus serpillum
Not recognized
Thymus serpyllum extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Citric acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Fagus sylvatica
Not recognized
Fagus sylvatica bud extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Plankton extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Alumina~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

The same compound that is used safely in dental implants and bone cements. In cosmetics, it is used to improve the consistency of products

More about Alumina
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Limonene~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Mica~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Ci 77891~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ci 77492~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant. Usually well-tolerated

More about Ci 77492
Iron oxides~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Dipropylene glycol, Glycerin, Isododecane, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Glycereth-26, Xylitol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl methicone, Butylene glycol, Peg-11 methyl ether dimethicone, Caprylyl glycol, Polysilicone-11, Bis-vinyldimethicone/peg-10 dimethicone crosspolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Parfum, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl acetate, Maris aqua, Sea water, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Adenosine, Potassium hydroxide, Disodium edta, Ascophyllum nodosum, Ascophyllum nodosum extract, Unknown, Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, Carrageenan, Maris sal, Sea salt, Ethylhexylglycerin, Unknown, Sophora angustifolia root extract, Barium sulfate, Paeonia albiflora root extract, Unknown, Thymus serpyllum extract, Potassium sorbate, Citric acid, Unknown, Fagus sylvatica bud extract, Plankton extract, Alumina, Benzoic acid, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Mica, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77492, Iron oxides

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
NARSAqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTNARS CosmeticsNARS Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free MoisturizerBIOTHERMFORCE SUPREME ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZING GELKate SomervilleWrinkle Warrior Hydration Gel
Match—65%61%60%
Price$29.08$52.35+$23.27$125.59+$96.51—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 73 of 74 of 7
Key difference——Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae ExtractGluconolactone
Irritancy High High Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
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  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
NARS Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer
NARSAqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer

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