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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Institut Esthederm - Excellage Re-Densifying Face Cream" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (anhydroxylitol, artemia extract, carnosine, glycerin and mannitol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, stearyl dimethicone, dimethicone and c10-18 triglycerides in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.20% - 0.35%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.25% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.25%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Adenosine 0.30% - 0.55% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
  • This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): asiatic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.55% and asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.50% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 80.00£ up to 130.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 81.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.