VT Cosmetics

VT Cosmetics Cica Collagen Cream

Name: VT Cosmetics - Cica Collagen Cream
Brand: VT Cosmetics

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

38 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Cica Collagen Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: galactoarabinan, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, cera alba.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 1, ceramide ap, ceramide as, ceramide np, ceramide ns, copper tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-11, hexapeptide-9, madecassoside, niacinamide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.55–0.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3%

Hexapeptide-11HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Hexapeptide-9Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.3–0.5%

Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.8–7.1%

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~1.1–1.3%

Ceramide 1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.6%

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Ceramide asHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.5%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.6%

Ceramide nsHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Copper tripeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.25–0.5%

GalactoarabinanKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.2%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.2%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.9–2.4%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~3.3–4%

Sodium acetylated hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.55%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.5%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Adansonia digitata seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~0.45–0.7%

Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.2–0.35%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2.1%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.5%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.45–0.7%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.35–0.6%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.65%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.2%

Hibiscus esculentus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals. It can be irritating~0.3–0.5%

Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.2–0.35%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.65%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.9–2.4%

MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.2%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 12 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, copper tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-11, hexapeptide-9, madecassoside, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.5%

Hexapeptide-11Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Hexapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.2%

Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.5%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Copper tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.25–0.5%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Hibiscus esculentus fruit extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.8–7.1%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~3.3–4%est.

Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~1.1–1.3%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Sorbitan palmitateHelps water and oil mix together and stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Adansonia digitata seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

GalactoarabinanHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.35–0.65%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2.1%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.3–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.8–7.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Propanediol~4.2–5.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~3.3–4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Glycerin~2.4–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Niacinamide~1.9–2.4%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2.1%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Cetearyl olivate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Sorbitan olivate~1.1–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Cera alba~1.1–1.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba

Methyl hydrogenated rosinate~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Methyl hydrogenated rosinate

1,2-hexanediol~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone

Dimethicone~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Sodium polyacrylate~0.5–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate

Cetyl palmitate~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate

Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Sorbitan palmitate~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together and stabilize the product formulation

More about Sorbitan palmitate

Isohexadecane~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Disodium edta~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Butylene glycol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Adenosine~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Polysorbate 80~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Ceramide np~0.3–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Adansonia digitata seed oil~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Adansonia digitata seed oil

Pentylene glycol~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Sorbitan oleate~0.3–0.55%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Parfum~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Galactoarabinan~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Galactoarabinan

Polyglucuronic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Often used to support the moisturization effect of polysaccharides (contained, for example, in yeast extract)

More about Polyglucuronic acid

Sodium acetylated hyaluronate~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid

More about Sodium acetylated hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Dioscorea japonica root extract~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dioscorea japonica root extract

Nelumbo nucifera root extract~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nelumbo nucifera root extract

Hibiscus esculentus fruit extract~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals. It can be irritating

More about Hibiscus esculentus fruit extract

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-10 laurate

Ceramide ns~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ns

Ceramide as~0.3–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide as

Centella asiatica extract~0.35–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Xylitol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Ceramide 1~0.3–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide 1

Ceramide ap~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Caprylic acid~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Caprylic acid

Glycine soja phytoplacenta extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glycine soja phytoplacenta extract

Copper tripeptide-1~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.

More about Copper tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Tripeptide-1~0.3–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-9

Hexapeptide-11~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-11

Propolis extract~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract

Asiaticoside~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Asiatic acid~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Madecassic acid~0.1–0.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Madecassoside~0.1–0.2%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Cera alba, Methyl hydrogenated rosinate, 1,2-hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dimethicone, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Sodium polyacrylate, Cetyl palmitate, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Sorbitan palmitate, Isohexadecane, Disodium edta, Butylene glycol, Adenosine, Polysorbate 80, Ceramide np, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Pentylene glycol, Sorbitan oleate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Parfum, Hydrolyzed collagen, Sodium hyaluronate, Galactoarabinan, Polyglucuronic acid, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, Hyaluronic acid, Dioscorea japonica root extract, Nelumbo nucifera root extract, Hibiscus esculentus fruit extract, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Ceramide ns, Ceramide as, Centella asiatica extract, Xylitol, Caprylyl glycol, Ceramide 1, Ceramide ap, Caprylic acid, Glycine soja phytoplacenta extract, Copper tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-11, Propolis extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, Madecassoside

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	VT CosmeticsCica Collagen CreamYOUR PRODUCT	TIRTIRMatcha Calming Cream 50ml	NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital Cream	Jin Jung sungHybrid Face & Eye Cream 80ml
Match	—	84%	81%	80%
Price	$23.53	$43.56+$20.03	$39.59+$16.06	$25.05+$1.52
Shared key ingredients	—	18 of 31	18 of 31	25 of 31
Key difference	—	Dipeptide-2	Nonapeptide-1	Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "VT Cosmetics - Cica Collagen Cream" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (hexapeptide-9, galactoarabinan, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and hydrolyzed collagen) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide 1, ceramide np, ceramide ns, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and tripeptide-1 in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.90% - 2.40%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide ap 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide 1 0.30% - 0.60%, ceramide as 0.30% - 0.50%, ceramide ns 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide np 0.30% - 0.60%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (hexapeptide-11 0.20% - 0.35%, hexapeptide-9 0.20% - 0.40%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50%, tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.50%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.25% - 0.45% and copper tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.30% - 0.50%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.10% - 0.20%, madecassic acid 0.10% - 0.20%, asiatic acid 0.15% - 0.30% and asiaticoside 0.15% - 0.30% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 23.95A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 40 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
7
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
8
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
14
Polyglucuronic acids: Structures, functions and degrading enzymessciencedirect.com
15
Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid: Enhanced Bioavailability and Biological Studieshindawi.com
16
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Polyphenol Composition and Antioxidant Potential of Hibiscus esculentus L. Fruit Cultivated in Nigerialiebertpub.com
19
In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
20
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
22
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
24
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
26
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
28
Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Datancbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Resultsmdpi.com
30
Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin - A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural studyinfona.pl
31
Selected Biomarkers Revealed Potential Skin Toxicity Caused by Certain Copper Compoundsnature.com
32
Propolis: A Wonder Bees Product and Its Pharmacological Potentialsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
35
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
37
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
39
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
40
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com

VT CosmeticsCica Collagen Cream

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